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1 한국해안 해양공학회논문집 /ISSN (Print), ISSN (Online) Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers 28(2), pp. 109~115, Apr 장기실측파랑자료분석을통한동해안폭풍파출현추세 Trends of the Storm Wave Appearance on the East Coast Analyzed by using Long-term Wave Observation Data 정원무 * 류경호 * 오상호 * 백원대 * Weon Mu Jeong*, Kyong-Ho Ryu*, Sang-Ho Oh* and Won-dae Baek* 요지 : 우리나라동해안 6개관측점에서장기간관측된파랑자료를이용하여폭풍파의출현추세를검토하였다. 한국해양과학기술원의 4개정점 ( 속초, 묵호, 후포, 진하 ) 에서는관측기간동안유의파고의연별평균값과최대값의주목할만한추세가나타나지않았다. 또한, 폭풍파의연별출현횟수는진하에서만완만한증가추세가나타났고나머지세정점에서는감소추세를보였다. 그러나기상청동해부이의경우유의파고의연별평균값과최대값및폭풍파연별출현횟수가 2009년이후로매우급격하게증가하는경향이나타났으며해당자료의연속성이확보되지않은것으로확인되었다. 핵심용어 : 폭풍파, 동해안, 장기파랑관측, 연별추세, 유의파고 Abstract : The trend in appearance of storm waves on the east coast of Korea was investigated based on long-term wave data observed at six different stations. At the four wave stations of KIOST (Sokcho, Mukho, Hupo, and Jinha), no notable trend was found during the observation period with respect to the annual average and maximum values of the significant wave height. In addition, the annual number of the appearance of storm waves showed decreasing trend at the three stations except Jinha, where slightly increasing trend of the quantity was recognized. In contrast, at Donghea ocean data buoy of KMA, abruptly increasing trend was found for the annual average and maximum of the significant wave height and for the annual number of the appearance of storm waves as well, demonstrating lack of consistency in the observation data from Donghea buoy of KMA. Keywords : storm wave, east coast, long-term wave observation, annual trend, significant wave height 1. 서론 우리나라동해안에내습하는폭풍파는여름철태풍의이동경로에따라발생하는고파와겨울철에내습하는너울성고파등크게두가지로구분할수있다. 태풍의경우에는 8월에서 9월중에주로발생하나 10월까지도나타나고있으며태풍의영향권에들어가는경우바람, 폭풍해일과고파에의한피해가급증한다. 태풍나비 (NABI; 0514) 와산산 (SHANSHAN; 0613) 이내습하였을때는동해안영일만신항북방파제 1.5 km 전면에서유의파고 12.2 m를기록 (Jeong et al., 2014) 하는등큰피해가발생하였다. 그러나우리나라에영향을주는태풍의빈도는평균적으로연간 3~4회로매우낮으며이중에서도동해안에영향을미치는태풍은매우제한적이다. 이때문에동해안에내습하는폭풍파는대부분겨울철너울성고파가차지하고있다. 겨울철너울성고파는주로 10월에서 2월에이르는기간에빈번하게발생 하지만봄철인 4월까지도발생한다. 이러한너울성고파는중국내륙및우리나라부근에서발생한온대성저기압이동해로진출하면서급속하게발달하여중심기압이낮아지고저기압주변으로강한기압골을형성하면서강풍이불게됨에따라발생한것이다 (Jeong et al., 2007; Jeong et al., 2008). 최근들어지구온난화등기후변화로인해우리나라에내습하는폭풍파의강도가증가할것이라는우려와함께장기기후변화예측에대한연구들이활발히진행되고있다. Dobrynin et al.(2012) 은기존기후변화에따른전지구적인미래의파랑기후를전망한연구결과에서평균유의파고와극한파랑의변화는지역에따라편차가심하지만평균유의파고는대체로감소한다고예측하였다. 반면에최근해양수산부의연구보고서 (Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries, Republic of Krea, 2014) 에서는기상청 (Korea Meteorological Agency, 이하 KMA) 동해부이의 2001년부터 2011년까지의유의파고관측자료분석결과를근거로과거 10년간동해안파고가점차커지고있다고기 * 한국해양과학기술원연안공학연구본부 (Corresponding author : Weon Mu Jeong, Coastal Disaster Prevention Research Center, Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology, 787 Haean-ro, Sangnok-gu, Ansan, Gyeonggi-do, 15627, Korea, Tel: , Fax : , wmjeong@kiost.ac.kr) 109

2 110 정원무 류경호 오상호 백원대 술하였다. 또한전지구결합기후모델인 HADGEM2-ES (Hadley Global Environment Model 2 - Earth-System configurations) 와 SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) 모형을이용하여수치계산한결과를바탕으로 2010년을기준으로 2050년에는황해에서는 0.9 m, 동해해역에서는 2m 이상파고가증가한다고예측하는등우리나라연안에서폭풍파가증가할것으로예측하였다. 그러나아직까지우리나라동해안을따라여러지점에서관측된장기파랑실측자료를가지고동해안폭풍파의추세를검토한사례는없었다. 다만, 최근에 1979년부터 2014년까지 36 년동안 ECMWF (European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecast) 바람장과 SWAN 모델을이용하여우리나라주변해역의파랑후측자료를토대로연평균및최대유의파고의추세에관한연구가이루어진바있다 (Jeong et al., 2016). 이연구에따르면한국해양과학기술원 (Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology, 이하 KIOST) 에서운용중인파랑관측자료는장기파랑후측자료와비교적잘일치 하고높은상관관계를나타내었다. 본연구에서는 KIOST에서동해안의속초항, 묵호항, 후포항및진하해수욕장전면해역등우리나라동해안중부에서남부에이르는천해역 4개지점 (Fig. 1 참조 ) 에수압식파고계를설치하고장기연속관측을통해취득한파랑자료와 KMA의동해및포항부이의파랑자료를이용하여동해안폭풍파의출현율변동추세를고찰하였다. 2. 관측자료수집 본연구에서는 Fig. 1에보인것처럼 KIOST에서동해안 4 개소에설치하여운영중인수압식파고계 (WTG; Wave and Tide Gage) 로부터관측된파랑자료및 KMA에서동해상에서운영하는동해부이와포항부이의파랑자료를분석에사용하였다. 각관측점의위 경도, 수심, 관측기간및관측률에대한정보를 Table 1에제시하였다. 이들관측점은개방해역에위치하고있으며주변해저면에암초등지형물이없어서파랑관측에적합한곳에위치하고있다. Jeong et al. (2007) 에제시된것처럼수압식파고계의자료수집시간간격은 0.5초이며, 30분마다 2,048개의자료를사용하여파스펙트럼을계산하였다. 스펙트럼분석법을통 하여파스펙트럼으로부터유의파고 ( ) 로불리는유의파고 ( ) 및첨두주기 ( ) 를계산하였다. 유의파고추정치는아 H m0 T p 래식으로정의되며, H s H m0 = 4 m 0 (1) 여기서 m n 은아래와같이계산되는스펙트럼밀도의 n차모멘트이다. m n = f 2 f 1 f n S( f ) df (2) Fig. 1. Location map of the wave measurement stations. 식 (1) 에서 f는파의주파수, S( f ) 는파의스펙트럼밀도를각각나타낸다. 본연구에서는하한절단주파수 (low cutoff frequency) 는 f 1 = Hz로, 상한절단주파수 (high cutoff frequency) 는 f 2 = Hz로설정하였다. 한편첨두주기는파스펙트럼이최대가되는주파수에해당하는주기 (= 주파수의역수 ) 이다. Table 1. Information of the wave monitoring stations (SC: Sokcho, MH: Mukho, HP: Hupo, JH: Jinga, DH: Donghae, PH: Pohang) St. Coordinate Depth (m) Instrument Obs. Rate Monitoring Period SC 38 o 12'27.9N, 128 o 36'59.6E 18.5 WTG 99.8% ~ MH 37 o 32'52.5N, 129 o 07'30.4E 15.0 WTG 99.9% ~ HP 36 o 41'59.1N, 129 o 29'03.4E 17.5 WTG 99.9% ~ JH 35 o 23'11.1N, 129 o 21'38.1E 18.0 WTG 98.0% ~ DH 37 o 31'60.0N, 130 o 00'00.0E 1,520.0 Buoy 78.3% ~ PH 36 o 21'00.0N, 129 o 46'60.0E Buoy 92.9% ~

3 장기실측 파랑자료 분석을 통한 동해안 폭풍파 출현 추세 Fig. 2. Time-series of the observed wave data (black color: significant wave height, gray color: peak wave period). 111

4 112 정원무 류경호 오상호 백원대 3. 동해안폭풍파의출현횟수검토 3.1 관측기간의파랑특성 Fig. 2에는전체 6개관측점에서관측된유의파고와첨두주기의시간적변화를나타내었다. KMA 동해부이자료의경우 2007년 1월을기점으로첨두주기가전반적으로커지는경향이나타나며 2010년 6월을기점으로는유의파고값이커지는경향이나타난다. 그러나다른관측점들에서는이러한특성이나타나지않았다. KMA 동해부이의경우이처럼특정시점을전후로파고및주기에현격한변화가나타나는이유는외부에공개되지않았지만관측장비또는계류방식등운용방법의변화에기인하였을것으로추정된다. 6개관측점에서관측된유의파고의연별변동성을고찰하기위하여 Fig. 3에각관측점에서의유의파고연평균값및연최대값의무차원값시계열그림을각각제시하였다. 무차원값은각관측점에서의연평균및최대유의파고를관측기간동안의각각의평균값으로나누어계산하였다. 수압식파고계자료의경우속초에서는관측기간동안연평균값의완만한감소추세가나타나며진하에서는반대로완만한증가추세가나타난다. 한편, 묵호와후포의경우에는별다른추세를보이지않았다. 연최대값의경우에도 2006년 10월에특별히큰너울성고파가내습했던 (Jeong et al., 2007; Oh and Jeong, 2013) 2006년의값이두드러지게크다는점을제외하면유의할만한추세는나타나지않았다. 반면에 KMA 동해부이자료의경우유의파고의연평균값과최대값이 2009 년을기점으로뚜렷한상승추세를나타내고있다. 또한, 2006 년의유의파고최대값이무차원화평균값 (1.0) 이하에분포하고있어 KIOST의 4개관측점에서 2006년의값이두드러지게컸던경향과는완전히다른추세를나타내고있다. 이는 KMA 동해부이의관측데이터를이용한장기추세분석시에는주의가필요함을시사하는것이다. 한편, Table 2에는각관측점에서연평균및연최대유의파고의평균값 (mean) 및변동계수 (coefficient of variation) 를제시하였다. 특히 Table 2에서연평균유의파고의변동계수값을살펴보면 KMA 동해부이의값이다른관측점들에비해서 2~3배이상큰값을나타내었음을확인할수있다. 한편, 연최대유의파고의경우에는 Fig. 3에서도알수있듯이모든관측점에서연평균유의파고에비해서는전반적으로변동계수의값이더컸다. 특히 2006년너울성고파로인해특별히큰유의파고최대값이관측되었던영향등으 로각관측점에서의변동성을서로비교하기에는적절하지않은것으로판단된다. 3.2 관측기간중지점별폭풍파출현횟수검토 본연구에서는동해안에주로영향을주는폭풍파가너울성고파인점을고려하여 Oh et al.(2010) 이제시한기준을적용 Fig. 3. Normalized annual average and maximum values of the significant wave height observed at the six different wave stations. Table 2. Mean and coefficient of variation of the annual average and maximum values of H s. Annual avg. Annual max. Sokcho Mukho Hupo Jinha Donghae Pohang mean cov mean cov

5 장기실측파랑자료분석을통한동해안폭풍파출현추세 113 하여폭풍파의발생기준을유의파고 3m로적용하여검토하였다. Table 1에나타낸바와같이 6개관측정점별로관측율에차이가있어폭풍파의출현횟수를그대로비교하는것이바람직하지않기때문에각정점별로관측율이 100% 일경우의폭풍파출현횟수를아래와같이산정하여, Table 3에나타내었다. = F storm, 100% F storm real ( Total Data No. ) 100%, ( Total Data No. ) real (3) F storm, 100% 여기서, 은관측율이 100% 일경우의폭풍파출현횟수이며 F storm, real 은관측자료에서의폭풍파출현횟수이다. 여기서출현횟수는매시간단위의자료를기준으로산정하였다. Fig. 4에는 Table 3의데이터를그래프로나타내어한눈에경향을알아볼수있도록하였다. Fig. 4. Annual variation of the occurrence number of the storm waves at the wave stations of KIOST and KMA. Table 3. Annual occurrence number of the storm waves estimated by based on Equation (3). Year Wave Measurement Stations Sokcho Mukho Hupo Jinha Donghae Pohang Table 4. Monthly occurrence number and percentage of the storm waves at the four wave stations of KIOST. Month Sokcho Mukho Hupo Jinha no.(hr) prob.(%) no.(hr) prob.(%) no.(hr) prob.(%) no.(hr) prob.(%) Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

6 114 정원무 류경호 오상호 백원대 Table 3에제시된수정폭풍파출현횟수의연별변동추이를살펴보면 KIOST에서관측한 4개정점에서는진하를제외한다른지점들의폭풍파출현횟수는대체로감소하고있는것으로나타났으며이는 Fig. 4에제시한연별추세에서도잘드러난다. 한편, KMA 동해부이의폭풍파출현횟수변동추이를보면 2009년까지와 2010년부터의결과가확연히다르며자료의연속성이유지되지않는것으로보여진다. 특히, KIOST에서관측을실시한 4개정점에서는 2009년의폭풍파출현횟수가 2010년보다훨씬더컸는데 KMA의동해부이에서는이와는완전히다른경향이나타났다. 즉, KMA의동해부이의자료는 2009년이전과이후의자료특성이완전히다른것으로판단되며, 이시점을포함하는자료를이용한통계적분석은수행하지않는것이바람직할것이다. 한편, Table 4에는 KIOST의 4개관측정점에서의월별폭풍파출현횟수를제시하였다. 전반적으로 5월에서 8월까지의여름철기간에는폭풍파의출현빈도가낮게나타나고겨울철에는높게나타남을확인할수있다. 폭풍파의출현율은 4개정점중속초와묵호에서는 12월에가장높았고후포와진하에서는 10월에가장높게나타났다. 4. 결론 우리나라동해안에위치한 6개정점에서현장관측을통해취득한파랑자료를이용하여유의파고의연별변동성및폭풍파출현횟수를검토한결과아래와같은결론을얻었다. - KIOST의 4개관측정점에서의유의파고연별평균값과최대값은관측기간동안뚜렷한추세를보이지않았다. 또한, 폭풍파의연별출현횟수는속초, 묵호, 후포에서는감소추세를보이며진하에서는증가추세를보였으며, 월별출현횟수는속초와묵호에서는 12월에, 후포와진하에서는 10월에가장높았다. - KMA 동해부이에서관측된파랑자료는유의파고의연별변동성및폭풍파출현횟수의특성이 2009년이전과이후가확연히다르게나타났으며, 관측연속성이결여되어있는것으로판단된다. 따라서이자료를이용한장기추세분석, 특별히 2009년전후시점을포함하는자료를이용한통계적분석은잘못된결론을도출할수있다. 이러한점에서 2009년전 후동해부이의자료를기준으로작성된해양수산부보고자료에서언급된 동해안유의파고상향추세 (Ministry of Ocean and Fisheries, 2014) 는재고될필요가있다. 감사의글 본논문은 KIOST의주요사업 연안침식저감원천기술개발 (PE99423) 과국토교통부가주관하고국토교통과학기술진 흥원이시행하는 2012년도지역기술혁신사업 (12 지역기술혁신 B01) 연구사업의지원을받아수행되었습니다. References Lee, C.-H., Ahn, S.J., Lee, B.W., Kim, S.W. and Kwon, S.J. (2014). Prediction of swell-like high waves using observed data on the east coast of korea, Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 26(6), (in Korean). Dobrynin, M., Murawsky, J., and Yang, S. (2012). Evolution of the global wind wave climate in CMIP5 experiments. Geophys. Res. Lett., 39(18), L Goda, Y. and An, E.-S. (1973). On wave characteristics along the East Coast of Korea and some remarks on breakwater design. Journal of Korean Society of Civil Engineers, 21(1), (in Korean). Jeong, W.M, Oh, S.-H. and Lee, D.Y. (2007). Abnormally high waves on the east coast. Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 19(4), (in Korean). Jeong, W.M, Oh, S.-H., Ryu, K.-H. and Kim, T.-I. (2008). Characteristics of abnormally high waves on the east coast, February proceedings of the Korean Association of Ocean Science and Technology Societies, (in Korean). Jeong, W.M. and Oh, S.-H. (2009). Abnormally high swells occurred on the east coast in recent several years proceedings of the Korean Association of Ocean Science and Technology Societies, (in Korean). Jeong, W.M., Kim S.I., Baek W.D. and Oh, S.-H. (2014). Measurements of storm waves generated by typhoons passed through eastside of korea strait from 2004 to Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 26(2), (in Korean). Jeong, W.M., Ryu, K.-H. and Cho, H.Y. (2015). Long-term wave monitoring and analysis off the coast of Sokcho. Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 27(4), (in Korean). Jeong, W.M., Cho, H. and Baek, W. (2015). Analysis of the longterm wave characteristics off the coast of Daejin, Journal of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 27(2), (in Korean). Jeong, W.-M., Oh, S.-H. and Eum, H.S. (2016). Analysis of wave climate around Korea based on long-term hindcast and coastal observation data, Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue 75, Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Administration (2012). Construction of real time wave height and direction transfer and analysis system, Report (in Korean). Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries (2014). Ocean climate variability, global warming, climate modeling, climate processes, Adaptation (in Korean), Press release, Date:

7 장기실측파랑자료분석을통한동해안폭풍파출현추세 115 Oh, S.-H., Jeong, W.-M., Lee, D.Y. and Kim, S.I. (2010). Analysis of the reason for occurrence of large-height swelllike waves in the east coast of Korea. Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 22(2), (in Korean). Oh, S.-H. and Jeong, W.-M. (2013). Characteristics of high waves observed at multiple stations along the east coast of Korea. Natural Hazard and Earth System Sciences, 13, Received 17 December, st Revised 23 February, nd Revised 23 March, 2016 Accepted 1 April, 2016

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