04-46(1)-06(조현태).fm

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1 w œwz, 46«1y 2009 Textile Science and Engineering Vol. 46, No. 1, 2009 ù 2'6 wx xk Á «w œ w» Áq œw k 1PG $CVJ1PG 5VGR &[GKPI H 0[NP2'6 5RNKV 6[RG /KETHKDGT *[GP 6CG %J CPF%JWN-YP2CTM &GRCTVOGPV H 1TICPKE /CVGTKCNU CPF (KDGT 'PIKPGGTKPI 5PIUKN 7PKXGTUKV[ 5GWN -TGC 4GEGKXGF &GEGODGT #EEGRVGF (GDTWCT[ #DUVTCEVT ˆq ur tqp qu shqtgˆu rpu q qgiupp qg pyq gxi y xq p q x P9THP xu q yui ruhq u tq qhg t q q p qu s tqq tg u i ˆq r tqp q u u sxqg pyu qpp qhg t q qyqg qp pq purrq q p qu s qy q g qg p B rp qhg t9 tg u hqtgˆu rpu q qp qu tq qhg tp q u s r HP xu q yui ruhq u t pu q q p qgiup p q pu q q p qyq gx i y xq p q q q us uruig x grrqi qph p qu s qy q g qg p B rp qhg t5iupp q t qptust qy q g qpq q pq i rgp u pq u hqtgˆu p u s qxqˆg u r p qu s qy q g qu tq q hg t p qu s r HP xu q yui ruhq u t pu q qp qg pgiupp qgq gxi y xq p qu tq qhg tp qu s rhp xu qyui ruhq u tpu q qp qg p yq gx i y xq p q t qp gx tq qy q g q pq q pq i r gp u pq u h tq ru gx gh u g tustq tg tg rgiupp qu tq gyqp qu si pu u g pu i qg qp u tpqi qg q rp qhg t BTtq gu u s r pu q q p q x g qrrqi qp h p qu s qy q g q h g pqi qg qp u t tq pqi qg q r B u tq q hg t p qu s r HP xu q yui ruhq -G[YTFU URNKV V[RG OKETHKDGT PG DCVJ F[GKPI FKURGTUG F[G CEKF F[G OGVCN EORNGZ F[G UVCKPKPI v Ÿk pwš w š w š» n š r j vl y š =? FKTGEV URKPPKPI w EPLWICVG URKPPKPI ƒ ù w wx w ƒ w x ƒ œ w» ù e œ yw wq w y xk ü ù 2'6 ù 2'6 w ƒƒ t =? ù 2'6 wx» t jš wz ƒx x w xk ƒ š x %TTGURPFGPEG V *[GP 6CG %J EJJV"UUWCEMT 6JG -TGCP (KDGT 5EKGV[ w w w w š k w {w š w t ü w» ù û» j š w vpw x» g t w xƒš wr w ù 2'6 w k ƒœ r mw w š z w» œ w w r wp w w y» zƒœ» y t w w w» š =? ù w w w w w ƒ v w š w wƒ w» w» š w s l š ƒe w» š w ù 23

2 24 xká «ƒ w š ƒ» wš m wš ù 2'6 wx w ƒ v w š w w ù w ù wš 2'6 w =? ù w œ wš ƒ œ wš wì w ƒƒ 02 wx R* y ww Ÿ y l d w R*ƒ ƒ e w š yww 02 wx w yw w R*ƒ ƒ e w 02 wx wƒ w w 2'6 w š 02 wx š w R* ù w y w x v w ù 2'6 wx 02 FHFRH» 2'6w x FRH z l œ w ù 2'6 wx w % %¾ j DGP\[N CNEJN y ù q % l n w &[UVCT &KCPKZ $NWG #%' 6GEVKNP 4GF $ w 0GWVTKNCP ;GNNY -4 w šr* #EGVKE CEKF w w wx I R* 2'6 w YH % %OKP ƒƒ % % %¾ g kz %¾ þƒ j w 2'6 I YH v q wx w w ww w ƒƒ I R* ù w YH v q w w yw I R* YH % ƒ wì w w w w w Ì w w d &[G /CZ. U[UVGO&[GVGZ 'PIKPGGTKPIw w Ÿ d wš l w»» w ƒ šû # # V #» # CDUTDCPEG H KPKVKCN F[GDCVJ # V CDUTDCPEG H TGUKFWCN F[GDCVJ š 02 wx w wx ù w w0 2 ƒ p le xw š w ƒœœ w œ w w j w 02 wx w w» n wš %¾ gwwš ù w e w» n w ƒ k ³ w w w»» n % n wš % g ww (KIWTG w ƒ w 02 wx 02 wx R* w œwz «y

3 ù 2'6 wx 25 (KIWTG 5'/ KOCIG H UCORNG CHVGT YGKIJV TGFWEVKP RTEGUU H 02 URNKV V[RG OKETHKDGT % l %OKP ƒƒ % % %¾ g kz %¾ %OKP þƒ j ww (KIWTG &[G/CZ.U[UVGO d mw 02 wx w š ƒ % % % ë w š 02 wx 2'6ƒ w t ƒ % ü y û 02 wx w y e R* w» w % wšr* w š (KIWTG 'ZJCWUVKP EWTXGU H C FKURGTUG F[G P 02 URNKV V[RGOKETHKDGTCVXCTKWUR*F[G&KCPKZ$NWG#%'F[GKPI VGOR % (KIWTG 02 wx w R* š R* y j w š 02 wx 02 wx R* % l %OKP ƒƒ % % %¾ g kz %¾ %OKP þƒ j ww &[G/CZ.U[UVGO w d w š (KIWTG 02 wx w š» ùš j k ƒþƒ j ƒw w (KIWTG 'ZJCWUVKP EWTXGU H C FKURGTUG F[G P 02 URNKV V[RG OKETHKDGT CV XCTKWU VGORGTCVWTGG F[G &KCPKZ $NWG #% 'F[GDCVJR* (KIWTG 'ZJCWUVKP EWTXGU H CP CEKF F[G P 02 URNKV V[RG OKETHKDGT CV XCTKWU VGORGTCVWTG F[G 6GEVKNP 4GF $ F[GDCVJ R* Textile Science and Engineering, Vol. 46, No. 1, 2009

4 26 xká «(KIWTG 'ZJCWUVKPEWTXGUHCPCEKFF[GP02URNKVV[RG OKETHKDGTCVXCTKWUR*F[G6GEVKNP4GF$F[GKPIVGOR % (KIWTG 'ZJCWUVKP EWTXGU H CP CEKF F[G P XCTKWU UCORNGU CV % CPF R* F[G 6GEVKNP 4GF $ ƒû ùkû 02 wx w y e R* w» w % wšr* w š (KIWTG 02 wx w R* š k (KIWTG w ùkùù R*ƒ ƒ x š w ù» w» w R* wš TGIWNCTù FRHù v pr TGIWNCTù 2'6 02 wx yww w x w (KIWTG R* % ƒ w š š 02 wx TGIWNCTù TGIWNCT ù 2'6 yww 02 wx ù» w y w wt t ƒ j t ü œ t ƒ e œ enwš ü ü t w =? 02 wx w» ƒ ù»ƒƒ sx w * œ sx k w =? k ù 02 wx t w ù sx w k 02 wx w w 02 wx w» w02 wx w R* % l %OKP ƒƒ % % %¾ g kz %¾ %OKP þƒ j ww (KIWTG 02 wx ww š ƒ» š ƒþƒ ƒw ù k (KIWTG 'ZJCWUVKP EWTXGU H C OGVCN EORNGZ F[G P 02 URNKV V[RG OKETHKDGT CV XCTKWU VGORGTCVWTG F[G 0GWVTKNCP ;GNNY -4 F[G DCVJ R* w œwz «y

5 ù 2'6 wx 27 (KIWTG 'ZJCWUVKP EWTXGU H C OGVCN EORNGZ F[G P 02 URNKV V[RG OKETHKDGT CV XCTKWU R* F[G 0GWVTKNCP ;GNNY - 4G F[GKPI VGOR % wx û w 02 wx w y e R* w» w % wšr* w š (KIWTG 02 wx ww R* š k R*ƒ w û š ù R* j ù š (KIWTG (KIWTG 02 wx R* š (KIWTG 'ZJCWUVKP EWTXGU H CP CEKF F[G P 02 URNKV V[RG OKETHKDGT KP VJG PG DCVJ F[GKPI YKVJ FKURGTUG CPF CEKF F[GU CV XCTKWU VGORGTCVWTG F[GU &KCPKZ $NWG #%' CPF 6GEVKNP 4GF $ F[GDCVJ R* (KIWTG 'ZJCWUVKPEWTXGUHCPCEKFF[GP02URNKVV[RG OKETHKDGT KP VJG PG DCVJ F[GKPI YKVJ FKURGTUG CPF CEKF F[GU CVXCTKWUR*F[GU&KCPKZ$NWG#%'CPF6GEVKNP4GF$ F[GKPI VGOR % w ƒ R* w w ù û š û ù ƒù ƒ w w» q 02 wx R* % w ³ ù ƒ û R* ù» w x R* y š y w w w (KIWTG (KIWTG 02 wx w w R* y w w w R* w j ù w û š 02 wx w % R* w ³ ù k Textile Science and Engineering, Vol. 46, No. 1, 2009

6 28 xká «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w R* y š y w w w 02 ù w 02 wx ù e R* w» w w R* 02 wx š 2'6 š w 02 wx 2'6 (KIWTG %JCPIGUHCFKURGTUGF[GUVCKPKPIPP[NPKPVJG PGDCVJF[GKPIHFKURGTUGCPFCEKFF[GUCVXCTKWUR*F[GU &KCPKZ $NWG #%' CPF 6GEVKNP 4GF $ F[GKPI VGOR % ù w (KIWTG 02 wx y ù ù % ƒ¾ û ƒ ƒ ƒw ù ƒ2'6 w w w ù kü (KIWTG 02 wx ù y w œwz «y

7 ù 2'6 wx 29 R* ùkü R* ù % ƒ ƒ w ù R*ƒû w 02 wx» w ƒƒ 02 wx w R*ƒƒ e w š yww 02 wx w yw w R* ƒƒ e w 2'6 w š 02 w x š w R* 02 wx ù w mw 02 wx w R* w j w ew 02 wx jt w k R*ƒ w ƒw 02 wx w w R*ƒ w ƒw w ùkü k wû ùkû ù w 02 wx ù w j w š R* ƒ w û w w š x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extile Science and Engineering, Vol. 46, No. 1, 2009

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