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1 w wz J. Kor. Soc. Cloth. Ind. 8«3y, 2006 Vol. 8, No. 3, pp (2006) w p k sƒ ½ Á Á w w w A Study on the Mechanical and Hand Properties of the Lining Fabrics Myung-Ok Kim, Mi-Kyung Uh and Myung-Ja Park Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University, Seoul, Korea Abstract : This study is to evaluate the objective sensibility of the commercial lining fabrics. Five kinds of the linings were collected by adding taffetas with four kinds of fibersg(polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate) to one polyester stretch fabric. The six basic mechanical and hand properties were studied by using KES-FB system (Kawabata Evaluation System). The result of measuring the mechanical properties shows that polyester has high bending rigidityg (B), that polyester-stretch has a high value of linearity of load-extension curveg(lt), tensile energyg(wt), tensile resilienceg(rt), and coefficient of frictiong(miu) and a low value of bending rigidity(b), shear property, and geometrical roughnessg(smd). The nylon has a high value of bending rigidityg (B), shear property, and compression resilienceg (RC). The rayon has a high value of coefficient of frictiong(miu) and linearity of compression-thickness curveg(lc) and a low value of shear property, and the acetate has a low value of shear property. The result of hand value shows that polyester, nylon, and acetate are a high value of KOSHIG(stiffness), NUMERIG(smoothness), and FUKURAMG(fullness & softness), and they feel stiff and massive, that rayon has a low value of NUMERI and FUKURAMI. The total result of hand value shows that polyester taffeta and polyester stretch fabric are about the same as the best material for the lining of a woman s dress for spring and summer, and the next thing is acetate, but nylon and rayon are somewhat inferior materials. This provides a fundamental data for the comfortable clothing production of a higher value-added product through the study on the mechanical and hand properties of the lining as well as the right side of fabrics. Key words : hand, KES-FB, lining fabrics, mechanical properties 1. mw y l ywš Á wì jš w wì» w k k k w. w š ë t k sww k w w k sƒ j š (½, 2000). k w k w t w w. ÿw š št wš». p» s w y wš y w w š g s w» ñš Corresponding author; Myung-Ja Park Tel , Fax [email protected]. w s p w w w. w ü ƒ ww 21» ü wù š ƒƒe t w» w» w»» w. w» w w w x. ù ü w w w. w ywš r w w g z š xk j» w.»,, ù jš v w», wš y y», xk», w ü w (, 1974;, 1982). 357

2 358 w wz 8«3y, 2006 j, yw r w, yw ppw ƒ š, t w x wš yw. yw s l, l p, ù, t, x ü s l ƒ ƒ š ( Á, 2003). k ƒ ƒ w q ƒ w, Ï ƒ w. k sƒ w w q, t t w» w v wƒš (½, 2000). Kawabata(1980) k 6ƒ» w w w q w Kawabata Evaluation System(KES) w. KES y w, w d e l ƒ s ƒe(hand value) k sƒe(total hand value) w þ (½, 2000). w k w y w ( x, 1998) w ( Á, 1974), w (, 1983)ƒ w, w w³ƒ œ w ( x, 1999), w ñ w w ( Á, 2005). w k w Kawabata k sƒ y w k sƒ ƒ sƒw w. e ƒœ s l k w (½ Á, 1997), 54 sƒ y ( x z, 1999), û p w p e wk(thv) w, y ( x, 2003) w. r w w p, w³ƒœ ƒ w š, ksƒ q w ù, w w w k w w w., q w s taffeta w p e š, ƒsƒe š, w ksƒ mw w ww wš w. mw h w š» œwš w. Table 1. Characteristics of the lining fabrics Sample code Fiber Weave construction Fabric count(warp weft/cm) Weight(g/m 2 ) Thickness(mm) P Polyester plain P/S Polyester(Stretch) plain N Nylon plain R Rayon plain A Acetate plain Table 2. Characteristics value of basic mechanical properties and measuring apparatus for fabrics Mechanical Properties Symbol Characteristics Value Unit Apparatus Tensile LT Linearity of load-extension curve - KEB-FB1 WT Tensile energy gf cm/cm 2 RT Tensile resilience % EM Extension at maximum load % Bending B Bending rigidity gf cm 2 /cm KEB-FB2 2HB Hysteresis of bending moment gf cm 2 /cm Shearing G Shear stiffness gf/cm deg KES-FB1 2HG Hysteresis of shear force at 0.5 deg. of angle gf/cm 2HG5 Hysteresis of shear force at 5 deg. of angle gf/cm Surface MIU Coefficient of friction - KES-FB4 MMD Mean deviation of MIU - SMD Geometrical roughness µm Compression LC Linearity of compression /thickness curve - KES-FB3 WC Compressional energy gf cm/cm 2 RC Compressional resilience % Thickness/Weight T Thickness at 0.5 gf/cm 2 pressure mm KES-FB3 W Mass per unit area mg/cm 2 Balance

3 w p k sƒ x 2.1. w q w s taffeta polyester, nylon, rayon, acetate 4 polyesterstretch 1 ƒw 5 w. ƒ p Table k sƒ œë Þ å : w KES-FB(Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kato Tech. Co. Ltd) w p, p, p, t p, p, Ì 6ƒ p w 16w p e Table 2 d w. d wš w cm 2 w 65% 20 o C t d w w d w. å : ƒ sƒe wš ƒ s ƒe y r» w w w KES-FB mw w p e w ƒ sƒe KN-203-LDY w KOSHI( w, stiffness), NUMERI( ñ, smoothness) FUKURAMI( v, fullness and softness) w. k sƒe ƒ sƒe l k y w w KN-302- SUMMER w. 3. š 3.1. w p «Þ : p (Tensile property) w w g k x k. Fig. 1-(a) x (LT) w ƒ w š, w nylon ƒ ùk ü» w ƒw š, acetate ƒ û ùkü ù drape. (WT) Fig. 1-(b), polyester-stretchƒ w ƒ» w x š, w ù w û w w. Fig. 1-(c) (RT) w ƒ w š, w polyester-stretchƒ ƒ ùkü g k z e š w. Fig. 1. Tensile property of the lining fabrics. Fig. 2. Bending property of the lining fabrics. ùþ : p (Bending property) ñ w drape, š ½ ù. Fig. 2-(a) (B) polyester-stretch ƒ w ƒ ƒ š x w š, nylon w w ƒ š. Fig. 2-(b), l (2HB) nylon w ƒ» š l œ w x x w w š, polyester-stretch w ƒ w š x š, w û š x w. Þ : p (Shearing property) p wì š y» š w x ù drape w e. (G) Fig. 3-(a), ƒ w wù polyester-stretch rayon û ùkù x w ùkû. Fig. 3-(b) l (2HG) w rayon ƒ ùkü

4 360 w wz 8«3y, 2006 Fig. 3. Shearing property of the lining fabrics. Fig. 5. Surface property of the lining fabrics. Fig. 4. Compressional property of the lining fabrics. x w š, nylon w ƒ xk w x z z p w p ww w. G 2HG polyester-stretch rayon x w. ÇÞ : p (Compressional property) v t, Ì p Fig. 4-(a), x (LC) w x rayon, polyester, polyester-stretch, nylon, acetate. Fig. 4-(b) (WC) ƒ w v w ƒ j š, (RC) Fig. 4-(c), nylon ƒ š polyesterƒ ƒ û, ƒ 40~80%. ç Þ :t p (Surface property) syw p Fig. 5-(a) s³ (MIU) ƒ w wù polyester-stretch ƒ ƒ f ñ w w ƒ f. s ³r (MMD) Fig. 5-(b) ƒ w wù, w polyesterƒ Fig. 6. Thickness and weight of the lining fabrics. w nylon ƒ û t ñ š ³ w š, t e»(smd) Fig. 5-(c) w polyester-stretchƒ ƒ û ùkü t ƒ syw acetateƒ w ƒ ùkü. h dä : Fig. 6-(a)(b) Ì(T) ƒ 0.2 mm w ùkü, polyester-stretchƒ ƒ É š polyesterƒ ƒ. (W) ƒ wù acetateƒ ƒ ùkû k sƒ å Ê : KOSHI(stiff- ness) ö, k, ww txw p. KOSHI(stiffness) Fig. 7-(a), nylon, acetate, polyesterƒ w ƒ š» š l œ w x x w w q. p p û polyesterstretch KOSHI ƒ û.

5 w p k sƒ 361 Fig. 7. Hand value of the lining fabrics. Fig. 8. Total hand value of the lining fabrics. NUMERI(smoothness) ñ š wš ø l ù ø Fig. 7-(b) j ù rayon ƒ û ùkü Ï š, rayon t ¾ ¾ wš e Ï. FUKURAMI(fullness and softness) v ø ö zw, k ww txw. Fig. 7-(c) w rayon ùkü Ï zw k ùkû. å Ê :k sƒe w p e ƒ sƒe ww ùkü Fig. 8 polyester, polyester-stretch, acetateƒ nylon rayon w ùkûš polyesterƒ ƒ ƒ w ùkû. 4. KES-FB l w q s 4 (polyester, nylon, rayon, acetate) taffeta l (textured yarn) polyester-stretch 1 ƒw 5 w 6ƒ» w k sƒ w. mw w p ks ƒ mw š ƒƒe t w» œ wš w. mw. 1. w p d polyester (B), l polyester-stretch p s³ (MIU) š p, p, t e»(smd) û ƒ ùkû, nylon p, p, (RC) š, rayon x (LC) š, p û, acetate p û ùkû. 2. ƒ sƒe polyester, nylon, acetate KOSHI, NUMERI, FUKURAMI ùkù ¾ ¾ w ø wì zw ùkþ, polyester-stretch KOSHI ƒ û, rayon NUMERI, FUKURAMI û ùkþ. 3. w k sƒe, w ƒ w polyester polyester-stretch w, acetate ùkû, nylon rayon w ùkû. w k sƒ ü š polyester ƒ w ù, polyesterstretch w stretch stretch w. w polyester polyester-stretch ñ w w. x w w w, w Kawabata Evaluation System(KES). w x ü w w e s k sw w, ƒ wì š w y w w»w w. w k sƒ k sƒ sƒ wì š w ƒ w w. : w 2 BK21. š x Á (2003) -».,. ½ Á (1997) e ƒœ s l k w (I) - k sƒ w -. w œ

6 362 w wz 8«3y, 2006 wz, 34(4), ½ Á Á (2000) k sƒ. w wz, 24(6), ½ Á Á x Á y (2000) w sƒ - x.,. xá z (1999) k w - sƒ y -. w wz, 23(8), x (2003) û y. w w w. xá Á½x (1998) k w y w. w y wwz, 7(1), Á (2005). w ñ w w. w wz, 7(4) Á (1974) w :, ñ w. w œwz, 11(2), (1983) w x. w w w. xá Á y (1999). w w w. w wz, 23(1), œ (1974) Ž l k. Ž k, pp.3-6. sx (1982) Ž k l. Ž k, pp ( )