BRILLIAN-CSA 비전씨앤티
CONTENTS 1. SUMMARY 2. WHAT IS THE LHA? 3. SPECIFICATION OF Brillian-CSA 4. CONCLUSION
1. SUMMARY 1) INCI NAME : Capryloyl Salicylic Acid 2) 한글명칭 : 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드 3) OTHER NAME: 5-Octanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-Octanoylsalicylic acid 4) CHEMICAL NAME :2-hydroxy-5-(1-oxooctyl)- Benzoic acid 5) 성분의분류 : 하이드록시애씨드 (Hydroxy Acid) 6) 성분의세부분류 : 베타리포하이드록시애씨드 (LHA, β-lipohydroxy Acid) 7) 기능 in 피부 : 항염작용 (Anti-Inflammation) 항균작용 (Anti-Microbial) 면포용해 / 면포형성억제 (Comedolytic/Anti-Comedogenic) 미백효과 (Whitening) 주름감소 (Anti-Aging) 항진균효과 / 비듬방지 (Anti-Fungal/Anti-Dandruff) 8) 성분의안정성 : AOC Safety B (= Safe with Qualification) (by CIR Comment) 자극이없도록, 자외선에민감해지지않도록만든제품이라면안전하다. 자외선에민감해질우려가있는경우, 자외선차단제를같이사용하도록권장되어야만한다. 9) 권장사용농도 : ~2% ( 필링등의시술에사용시 5~10%)
2. WHAT IS THE LHA? LHA ( 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, β-lipohydroxy Acid) 는 1980 년대후반로레알 (L ORÉAL) 에의해개발된살리실릭애씨드 (SA, Salicylic Acid) 의유도체로살리실릭애씨드의벤젠고리 (Bezene ring) 에지방사슬 (acyl fatty chain) 을붙여 SA 보다좀더지용성으로만든것이다. LHA 는정상피부의 ph 인 5.5 와 ph 가거의흡사하여 ph 에의한자극이없어 GA 와비교하여중화시킬필요가없다. 오일을좋아하는지용성의성질로인해서서히피부에침투하며, 낮은농도에서도좀더효율적인각질제거효과를나타낸다. SA, GA 에비하여깊게침투되지않으면서, 주로각질층의상층부에서만제한적인작용을나타내고피부에부드럽게작용하여정상적인각질탈락과유사한과정을통해각질을제거하기때문에안전하고, 자극이적은장점이있다. LHA 는표피의재생을유도하며콜라겐의형성을증가시키고, 자외선에의해생긴색소를감소시켜광노화피부를회복시켜준다. 특히, 글라이콜릭애씨드등의 AHA 와는달리자외선으로인한손상을막아주는광보호효과도있다. 오일을좋아하여피지로가득찬모공에선택적으로작용하며, 항균효과와항염효과, 면포용해및면포억제효과도있어여드름에매우유용하다.
3-1. Clinical tolerance and efficacy of capryloyl salicylic acid peel compared to a glycolic acid peel in subjects with fine lines/wrinkles and hyperpigmented skin 3-1-1. Glycolic acid(ga) 와 LHA 의비교 ( 주름실험 ) The effects of glycolic acid (GA) or capryloyl salicylic acid (LHA) peel in improving the appearance of lines and wrink les. Subjects were treated with GA or LHA as described i n the Methods section. On the indicated weeks, dermatol ogical evaluation of the face was carried out before the pe eling procedure using a scale of 0 5. The improvement fro m baseline (week 0) was calculated for each subject. The p ercentage of subjects showing improvement from baseline was calculated using the Wilcoxon signed rank test, and st atistical analysis was done using the SMYDERM, SAS progr am. The number of subjects showing improvement from b aseline was plotted against the week in the X axis. Statistic ally significant changes (P < 0.05) from baseline are indicat ed by an asterisk (*). 12 주후, GA 가 30% 주름을감소시킨것과비교하여 LHA 는 41% 주름을감소시켰다.
3-1. Clinical tolerance and efficacy of capryloyl salicylic acid peel compared to a glycolic acid peel in subjects with fine lines/wrinkles and hyperpigmented skin 3-1-2. Glycolic acid(ga) 와 LHA 의비교 ( 색소침착실험 ) The effects of glycolic acid (GA) or capryloyl salicylic acid (LHA) on reducing hyperpigmentation. The treatment, dermatological evaluation, grading of skin, and calculations are the same as described for Figure 1. Grading scale is indicated in Table. Statistically significant improvements in pigmentation (P < 0.05) are indicated by an asterisk (*). 12 주후, GA 가 34% 색소침착을감소시킨것과비교하여 LHA 는 46% 색소침착을감소시켰다.
3-2. NUDGING ACNE BY TOPICAL BETA-LIPOHYDROXY ACID (LHA), A NEW COMEDOLYTIC AGENT. 3-2-1. Material And Method 3-2-2. Results
3-2. NUDGING ACNE BY TOPICAL BETA-LIPOHYDROXY ACID (LHA), A NEW COMEDOLYTIC AGENT.
3-2. NUDGING ACNE BY TOPICAL BETA-LIPOHYDROXY ACID (LHA), A NEW COMEDOLYTIC AGENT. 3-2-3. Conclusion
4. SPECIFICATION OF Brillian-CSA Character :White or almost white crystal powder Odor: Odorless Solubility: It can dissolve in lipid and can t dissolve in water Identification: Conforms Melting point: 112.0-117.0 Loss on drying: 0.5% Ignition Residue: 0.1% Heavy metals: 0.002% Content: 98.00 %
5. CONCLUSION 피부자극과부작용의문제로최근사용량이줄고있는 SA 나기타 AHA, BHA 제품의대안으로서 LHA 는주름, 색소침착, 항균, 여드름등화장품원료로서가져야할거의모든기능을가지고있어광범위한사용이예상된다. 화장품업계의선진국이라할수있는유럽국가나북미에서는 LHA 의사용이 AHA 와 BHA 제품의대안 Peeling 제로서사용되고있는추세이다.
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