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1 w wz J. Kor. Soc. Cloth. Ind. 9«2y, 2007 Vol. 9, No. 2, pp (2007) 30 q q f œ w q œw œ Transition of Fashion Trends and Fashion Colors in Recent 30 Years Kyung-Hee Lee Dept. of Textile & Fashion Engineering, Kumoh National Institute of Technology, Gumi, Korea Abstract : Color is infinitely more complex and challenging when the human element is factored in. The nature of fashion presents additional issues that must be addressed, allowing for even greater possibilities. Fashion trends and fashion colors could be used as a starting point for investigating many possible applications in fashion industry. Modern fashion industry received various information from many medias. Fashion trends and fashion colors must be referred to primarily when planning fashion goods among so much information. In this study, changes in fashion trends and fashion colors from 1966 to 1995 were investigated. The results indicated fashion trends and fashion colors were involved with community, culture and economy. Furthermore, important characteristics of fashion trends were summarized. In recent 30 years fashion trends and fashion colors appeared practical fashion and natural color, amenity fashion and mild color. According to the fashion changes in sensitivity, the color change was evaluated. Fashion colors displayed changes from sign effect to symbol effect. Especially black changed from minus image to plus image made it important fashion color. Key words : fashion trends, fashion colors, changes, 30years, investigating 1. w z» z w, š z w ü zx (, 1987). w w w wx ñ ü q fw. q e j,õ t»zö ù Õš t»zö. w q yƒ w è j w d q q ƒ w w ƒ. w ƒ mw w w q q f ù y dw ƒ qƒ š w. q q f w q t»z w š w. w q d e j q f ƒ š. q f» d» p x Corresponding author; Kyung-Hee Lee Tel , Fax [email protected] f w k f y ww (Mary, 1995). w, š t»z ƒ w ƒz, tx y, tx wx wš (quxx, 1992). w x 30 q q f x mw š w š, y q wš w. w ù w q Á w z q Á dw šƒ š ƒw l 1995 ¾ 30 q q f 5 6» ù š w. 2.» q q f 2.1. q x œ»(1966~1970) 1960 q d pio ƒ w š w ¾ w wƒ j (Christian Dior) v w w ƒ wš x q û 167

2 168 w wz 9«2y, j w w. ù 1960» l z z» x w t ip(mary Quant) w f. z, i (André Courrèges) tw, t {. ( )w šw m w ƒw, x ƒ ww ƒ x. ƒ qk x x jš T d ü y(š )x g, (jeans) ty g q e y, t g p, T.P.O š w x z»» š w.»,,, ƒ. w w» w œ, œ w y» e q y (Fashion Color Book, 1993) z 1966 w < p >, 1966 (Yves Saint Laurent) < œ > w ew» ùkû, wr i < r > qƒ ƒ (Emanuel Ungaro), r (Louis Feraud), v e (Pierre Cardin) x, io ùkü. wr q p(pop Art) w y jš(fig. 1), i j l z w q 5 x ûš, q w, pio l, v ks l yw»ƒ (ž, 1995), 1968 w, w vƒ zwš, v ƒ w ù š w, w. io f 30 z fw y p,,,,» z w. 84 tw k (grosgrain) ƒ w. w j s qd wš w, j Ï jw. io w ƒ w ùkù. w» p qd v w qd ƒ. w k q q g (Paco Rabanne) w, ¾ k tw q < > w ƒ š ¼ vpw. q f q l ƒ š,»,,, w ƒ. v p g v w, v pƒ. k j ùkù y vw. e ( «)ƒ 4, f tw l Õ Ö. ƒ ƒ pq ww wr, q w, ÕLOVEÖƒ k w. ƒ m š, ƒ,,,,, j ùkû, (, 1994).» zy, q, q f Table x ƒ w»(1971~ 1975)» q yƒ ww tx Fig. 1. Yves Saint Laurent Tuxedo, 1966/67. A History of Fashion, p.63. Table 1. Fashion Trends of 1966~1970 zy f, y, œy ( w, w),», g v s 11y œ, v yù w, j p q t, qk x, t, p qd( ),»ww (i ), g (e ), v p (qg ), ty, p T.P.O,,,, j, ¼ y(,, ), vgjx q f p g p( š w wš w ), j f, p qk ( š w )

3 30 q q f 169 w». q f œ ùkü». y q, œw, j w l, k y, w w. w y, sj, q w ü f, f»ƒ w. û» w q w š, ej. ej(khaki) w (~, 1991). wr v, yù,, û, j p 1960 z l 1970, ƒ x w. x w š r q,,, k t x y ƒ š ú y wš z x st { e wš, j w. q y f tx k w. œ y z, x w k y, z, y š w œ» û. t q, q, sj q w š, 1973 j z q w. q û» w» š w w q (Fashion Color Book, 1993). q w, sj, f ( ž ) v e,,, t w w ej f ƒ». x gp, s f v, j, e š f p, fpƒ wwš, fp ¼ v ks l. q f š pio š, v ks lƒ y» w z f. dƒ w w, w. q f ƒ, v pƒ w. Fig S/S, Cloe. SOEN EYE 16, p.63. Table 2. Fashion Trends of zy k y, ƒ, z x, œ, 1 j(1973),, k q f (1975), qk, r, q, g ( ) k, q k, w,»qd, e š fp, j k, T d, v l, l, q f ü f f 1971 < v > tw. ¾ e w l w, w tw.,,,, ƒ ùkû w v ks l š (Grès)ƒ w, v ks l e k w. y w š, pio w w. q f w ù, n wš ù,, y p,, j ƒ io s ƒ p q y w l io v k s l ww š, 17 l ƒ. ƒ š, Õ k Ö š. s w ƒ œw. q f q w, v ks l q f. j w ƒ š, y pƒ. l, ƒ j š,. s p,,,, ƒ. f e l (Jean Charles de Castelbajac) w w q f r m, n (Fig. 2) y n wd. ƒ š, ej w f q. k sj w. 1975». 4z ƒw m û ( ) q ( Œ ) š w m» wš, ø ù v tw. tw ¾ q, q f š. w, w l l

4 170 w wz 9«2y, 2007 ƒ (Valentino Garavani), j kù(claude Montana) (Thierry Mugler)ƒ ƒw (, 1994). sj k f š, š, š w f sƒ q ƒ w w wù 1960 z l ù tyx š, w g» w g y. wù û, v š w x ƒ q w.» zy, q, q f Table q j f»(1976~1980)» m q q nwš, ƒ y w». q f j f ƒ y. q š, f, ü f w. w j f ( t w j f )ƒ T d ww., grp(») f pw q l f j z, y., p q q y š, pio ƒ w š w. e pio w öš. ù,, T d š w q w ƒ š, š q w šw y q j wù û ( ƒ), ( ƒ) q Fig. 3. Claude Montana, 1978., p.171. xw, Õ q Ö. q v,,»» Õs wö w w. w q œm w.» ù tx t š w tx., v š w q w ƒ w tx ü. ù 1978 l q q w. q q l ƒ w, m w y q q j». Õx Ö l,õx( ) yö». p, j kù(fig. 3), x ( ) l (Fashion Color Book, 1993) w e w l š ù w. l, ww. w,, vj vj. v e ƒ w w y w. l ù š, l w. s p ù, š, Õ Ö š w ƒ w w y p, ùkû. ƒ, wš q l ƒ ùkû. w j Õ yö. q f k y» š. Õ g f (ecology color)ö ye š, z ƒ w. s (Jean Paul Gaultier) ƒ w w <v e rj> < >ƒ xwš,, zx w. rj. kù,, r k ƒ w, kù ùe ù. w r < > k m (Chantal Thomass), j e r (Karl Lagerfeld) (Jean Louis Scherrer)., q l. ƒ kk jƒ w. w w Ì, ƒ f f ƒ w, w. wr Áƒ ƒx w» w ƒ, k w yw.

5 30 q q f 171 Table 3. Fashion Trends of 1976~1980 zy q q f x w( m, ½ ), q t, y, y, 2 j(1979), g, j sp e q, p qk q, j q, ƒ q, p io (w ),, kj k w, gl( x ), x y, rj q, t q,,, w(40-50 ) ü f, g, q l f, j f ƒ w Õs p Ö š w w. y t, y, y, q l, y 2~3 ƒ q f. ùkù y sj, g l ƒ, wd y., v y p, ƒ ( ) w (, 1994).» zy, q, q f Table s m»(1981~1985) wì wõ t( ª)Ö q w.», m ƒ w. q q 1960 z œ (q, j), 1970 ü f, f ƒ x w. ù ƒ i ( ), m ( )ƒ tw Õ q Ö š g, z t w m 1980 tw (Fig. 4). z 10 ù»ƒ š m, Õ k f Ö š w.» z, y ƒ, q z l, z ƒ w» w, q m ù» w. j, gg, m, 20 ~50 ƒ w w w q 1970 z n š, w 1980 x ƒ w ( Á q ) ƒ. Á l p, ywš, w y w e, v Fig. 4. Black dress, Kawakubo Rei, 1983., p.180. yw y w wš, q m w enwƒ, 82 ƒ i m, q q w. f š, xkƒ š, m š w, q q j. q, y ¾, q ƒ (Fashion Color Book, 1993) w g. s œ wš, s ww, ƒ f w. f l 10 ù w. w, f q l l f, j m¾ w.» sj t w¾ ƒ Õ r Öƒ wš, k ƒ. p q, p f» w.» s (Guy Paulin) w, sv (Popy Moreni) w w ùkù wr, ƒ g f w š,õ jöƒj ƒ., š, gt w, w. q w k w» w w. w. 3 z sx Õg (comme des garçons)ö ƒ i m. ƒ i f y,, f vw w, š zš. ù y w 1983 w w w. w p f sww.

6 172 w wz 9«2y, 2007 k e ƒ., s ƒ ww, Á q ƒ ƒ ƒ. j w, sj,, Ÿ Õ Ö š ùkû w, óû. l j (ecru)¾ y. ù x ùkù, (Hervé Léger)ƒ w y pƒ. y p k vj ùkû. q l j ƒ š, e,, y p Õ y mö. j f l gk, erƒ sw zn, p f. g,, ƒ, m yw ~1970 p q zšw. e f q f ƒ w, ù ƒ Ÿ { w. yw (, 1994).» zy, q, q f Table j q j f» (1986~1990)» txw, n j., l. j w j f» w m t f v w, q y y» w q û. m» w š,» j j f ƒ w š, r f l q l f w» w.» y ƒ, w w š, w. x w w, ù q w š w x w. ù» y wƒ q w, wš vw q w d. ù 1978 l Õx yö, y Table 4. Fashion Trends of 1981~1985 zy q q f f k, q, TV, v, z, h f (1985), l, š y( q») y, s p,,,, sj, j, gg, p, j, ü f, m, p f» w. Á w» w 1978 l Õ 10 w 1987, yƒ ƒ Á yw» w. w, l w w, š, ƒ š, v ƒ.» m w p ƒ wš, j, gg š,,, ¾. w ƒ, g t Õ Ö, Õ ³x Ö, tx q j w., q p, s ù t š w. g p( ) (Œ) z tx w z, y y j j» w, g ƒ q w e» w. w» y l r j r œvx œ ƒ., g l w q f f k w w š, z q» ( f ) (Fashion Color Book, 1993) w w. x ww. u w wš, q l ƒ ùkù., w lj. ù ù, w j j (Christian Lacroix) ƒ io w, 60 f w» w v ks l w ø, j x pio ƒ ƒ., ½l, Ÿ{ io w j, p k wš,» y w. f (acid color) k. q l w š, q f w. w y pf v w. 1988, r w w, x š k f (body conscious)»,» k w. ù š, kùƒ 1960 e fq {w ƒ w v x 200» w,» g (tricolore) w. ù v d, ƒ i s e, e ƒ w, w.

7 30 q q f 173 w ø, yõ Ö w û k w j w. (Martine Sitbon) g k ù ƒ wr, (Romeo Gigli) Ÿ{ w, Õ Ö w ƒ (Fig. 5) y w. k, ú þ w üü zw š w»y w,, z š, ƒe w w y g f ƒ š,. kù w, t tw š, 1990 w p io l s Õ (Lanvin)Ö w. q wwš, y w. g f vwš, x p (Helmut Lang)» Õ k Öƒ. œm ƒeƒ š w s p w y, w (, 1994).» zy, q, q f Table 5 Fig ~ 90 F/W, Romeo Gigli. Fashion Key Word, p.101. Table 5. Fashion Trends of 1986~1990 zy v(1988),, ƒ f, m (1990), Á j,, q w,, e q,, f ( ), ù q ( s p ), UV fp y t q f m, g f, j f, f 2.6. g w q g f»(1991~ 1995) q. 1990,» l, š w ³ y l w y w ƒ. z š x w, y ƒ û» w vw y. w» w w w œx w. ƒ¾ w y y( y) w ƒ. y ww q w ƒ w,. y Õl Ö g j.» w š,» t ƒ xƒ (Fashion Color Book, 1993).» ( ) j q l, q f g f ƒ w z l, y y, g f l ƒ y ƒ. q r j rƒ ù, f m g l w., t, w,,. f, ù ( Œ), ƒ g f t w ü w. ( ) j y š w, ù kù w. y j. w,,, f ƒ ƒw, io w p f f ƒ. ù, y. š, p y. p f,,,, rv. tx ƒ. q l j w w. ƒ io, m ƒ, f w 1970 q y ƒ v v(new hippies) w. v x l l qd, p, gp,. wr, e w (Katharine Hamnett) x p k f. f

8 174 w wz 9«2y, 2007 ( ) ( ) ùkû (, 1980) q f Õ Ö Õ jö š,»ƒ ƒ. p, wwõ q Ö j, r (Gianfranco Ferré)ƒ w, ƒ i o m (Fig. 6),, v ks l. ù j,,, (mélange) f, v, f,, g f w mw. e w. t v e ƒ q p. š q š, f q p w 1995 w (, 1994).,. j ùkù 1995 wƒ. i o w, k w v wì ( ) 50 w š, w io ( k) ñ (, 1980).» zy, q, q f Table 6 Fig F/W, Yoji Yamamoto. Japonism in Fashion Tokyo, p Table 6. Fashion Trends of 1991~1995 zy (1991), r (1991), EC mw (1993), ù v, j l «k, e p», y y( g w) q v q, q, q, w», y, g (l ), q (60-70 ) q f g f, ü f, m, p f Table 7.» q q f q q f q x œ x ƒ q j f s m j q j f g w q g f l 1995 ¾, 30 q q f 5 6» ù š w š, w w. 1. ƒ» q q f Table 7 2. w q ùkù j š w. ƒ»,» w w, w œ ù ƒœw w ƒ û. q f w f w. w y j ùkû., y jƒ,. 3. p w q f ùk ù. y t, d j. p, h w,, p w w., ù wš, j ù, ù, ¼ ù, w wƒ,» ù.,» š ƒ ƒ ü. w ƒ ùkü j, i, j, p, vš w x ƒ. q f w x ƒ w š, f ƒ ƒ ƒ. 4. q w w, z yƒ, q f z l z y. ƒ ƒ z z z ù ƒ. z w w š, z ù w ü w., q f

9 30 q q f 175,,, l yw., ƒ. z t q wš, q f w w 1 j z w, p w ww. f f., t» ü t, w ww. l, ƒe yw w j yw., q f w ywš, z z l z» ã. 5. y w s m q k f ƒ. m p w w w. w, f ƒ» l, v w ùkù w ƒ. ü ¼ w DATAVIEW f, s ƒ 37% 25% ƒw,» y ƒ ¼.» s š,,, š w v ƒ w tx (Dataview, 1982). z, z 1980 ¾ yƒ. ù z. f y wì w, p j. x ww w, z,,,, š v ö š.» l v w»,»y, y y», q f j š. x w y l v 180 yw l 1995 ¾ 30 q q f š w š, z z 1996 l 2005 ¾ 10 q q f š w y q wš w. š x (1987) Ÿªml iom. Œ ƒ,, pp quxx (1992) œ «., pp ž (1998) vqtsxyr-tqu-tl. Œ ƒ,, pp (1994) "SOEN EYE 16. Œ ªœŒ ƒ,, pp ~ (1991) lqw-s ". ž Š««,,, pp (1980) vqtsxyl.,, pp ž (1998).,, p.171, 180. ž (1993) Fashion Key Word. Œ ƒ,, p.101. Œ Ÿ (1996) Japonism in Fashion Tokyo. ž ž,, p.157. Dataview (1982) ž Š««., pp Fashion Color Book (1993) ž., pp Gertrud Lehnert (2000) A History of Fashion in the 20th Century. Konemann, Cologne, pp Mary G. (1995) Fashion and Color. Rockport, Ohio, pp.6-7. ( )