Microsoft PowerPoint - SoftFocusOverview_ver1.0

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1 아주대학교대학원응용생명공학협동과정나노제제학 2008 년 2 학기 第 3 講 Part 1. 화장품에서의광학 ( 光學 ) 이론 : SOFT FOCUS THEORY 겸임교수 : 이성호

2 2.4. What is Soft-focus? Soft focus powder possesses the ability to blur skin troubles such as wrinkles. Wrinkles on the skin are perceptible though the contrast of light and dark that accentuates even very subtle creases. High Total Transmittance Low Haze Transparent Not Soft Focused High Total Transmittance High Haze Translucent Soft Focused Instead of covering the trouble area by highly opaque materials such as TiO 2, soft focus powder diffuses optical light within the structures. Soft focus powder does not produce whiteness, but rather natural translucent finish

WEEK 1: Deep lines look lifted away as our BioSync Complex amplifies natural collagen

3 2.4. Soft Focus in a skin care product DAY 1: Instantly see up to a 29% reduction in fine, dry lines. Skin is luminous. WEEK 1: Deep lines look lifted away as our BioSync Complex amplifies natural collagen production. Not applied Soft Focused MONTH 1: Skin reclaims its youthful look see up to a 50% reduction in the look of deep lines and wrinkles. Urethane Bead 20% used inside

Use of SH219 @ Skin Care http://www.diadermine.

4 Use of Skin Care Lift+ New Skin Tagespflege Die Straffheit und Glätte jugendlicher Haut sind abhängig von ihrem Kollagengehalt. Mit der Zeit geht die Kollagenproduktion in der Haut jedoch zurück. Die Haut wird schlaff und Falten entstehen. Zusätzlich verlangsamt sich kontinuierlich der natürliche Zellerneuerungsprozess der oberen Hautschicht. Die Produktion neuer vitaler Zellen sinkt und führt dadurch zu einer fahlen, unebenen Haut. Jetzt haben die Laboratoires DIADERMINE Lift+ New Skin entwickelt, eine hauterneuernde Anti-Age-Creme, die die Haut nicht nur intensiv strafft, sondern auch für einen strahlenden, frisch aussehenden Teint sorgt.

5 2.4. SH complex 10, Light Scattering Talc Talc SH complex Unnatural & shiny Natural Soft focusing Reflection Scattering

6 SH complex 10 Talc 90% & PMMA 10% 100~500nm Spherical PMMA is evenly coated on the surface of Talc Spherical embossing on Talc so you can increase dosage of SH complex powder without concerning about pressability issue for pressed products

7 쌩얼처럼보이고싶으면이화장품을... 윤기나는맨얼굴비밀은 MAC ' 스트로브크림 연예인들의투명화장, 섹시메이크업제품으로알려진 MAC 의 스트롭크림 (STROBE CREAM) 이 8 월한달간맥에서가장많이팔린제품으로기록되며그간의유명세를톡톡히했다. MAC의스트롭크림색조전문브랜드인 MAC에서기초화장제품인스트롭크림이판매 1위를차지한이유에대해 MAC 관계자는 쌩얼열풍 이라고대답했다. 결국쌩얼처럼보이고싶은여성들이피부결점을보완하기위해많이선택했기때문이라는것이다. 이제품의쌩얼효과에대해관계자는 미세한펄입자가빛에따라반짝이는효과를주지만, 강한펄이아닌건강한피부에서느껴지는광택정도 라고설명하며, 커버력은조금떨어질지모르지만모공과피부결을화사하게정리해줘건강하고매끄러운맨얼굴처럼속여준다 고덧붙였다. 또한이관계자는 맥이색조전문브랜드이기때문에어떻게하면메이크업을돋보이게할수있을까 에대한해답으로나온기초제품이기때문에, " 색조메이크업제품과기초제품의경계선에있는제품으로봐달라 " 고전했다. 맥관계자는브랜드내부방침에따라스트롭크림의정확한판매량과매출액은공개할수없으나, 이크림은지난 2000 년출시때부터많은호응을받았으며, 특히지난 2004 년부터마니아층을형성할정도인기를끈맥의대표제품이라고밝혔다. 한편맥의 8 월집계결과, 자연스런커버력을가진스튜디오퍼펙트파운데이션 SPF15 가 2 위, 스킨과페이스미스트그리고화장을유지시켜주는픽스플러스 3 위를차지했다고전했다. 2006/09/02

8 2.4. SH219 TiO 2 30% SH 219 5um Silica Bead TiO2 Fragrance Journal 2001/January pp63~66 Application of a new inorganic pigment to cosmetics Kao Corp. Skin Care Research Lab Kazuhiko Nojima Soft focused Less visible wrinkle Natural look Vivid color No color mismatch Hard focused Visible wrinkle Unnatural look Opaque color Color mismatch Abstract: Generally, inorganic white pigments such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide have been used in foundations and lipsticks to provide good finish. But there are several problems, such as it s poor dispersion and uneven application color. A new inorganic white pigment, the composite of porous spherical silica including micronized titanium dioxide, can improve these problems and provide a new make-up result. In this paper, optical characteristics of a new white pigment and its application to cosmetics are described.

9 foundation TiO2 used Soft Focus used

10 References L Oreal Estee Lauder BDF Kose Henkel Boots Chanel

11 How to Soft-focus effectively? Light Scattering Scattering Fresnel The bigger difference intensity Loss Of RI with media, Scattering area Size The smaller, The better Spread The more spreadable, light Shape The rounder, scattering! Apparent density The lighter,

12 Mapping Characteristics of Powders Value Category Sensory Powder Characteristics Size & Size distribution Morphology Surface treatment Visual Elasticity (Hardness) Absorption capacity Apparent density Refractive index Color Thus, Refractive index and Morphology are the most important characteristics of powder to visual values of make-ups

wrinkles Spherical It s widely known that spherical powders optically blur wrinkles So called

13 Round vs. Planar Planar Planar powders are more glossy and contrasting wrinkles Thus, not good for hiding wrinkles Spherical It s widely known that spherical powders optically blur wrinkles So called Soft Focus effect However, so far, there is no way to measure soft focus effect quantitatively We suggest quantitative way to measure soft focus effect in terms of total transmittance and haze

14 Refractive Index Refractive Index The refractive index is a constant for a given pair of materials. RI = speed of light in material 1 speed of light in material 2 Material Refractive Index Air Water 1.33 IPA Silica 1.47 PMMA 1.49 Glass 1.51 Alumina 1.50~1.56 CaCO PE 1.54 Talc, Mica 1.56 PS 1.59 PC 1.59 BaSO ZnO 2.03 TiO (Rutile) 2.5(Anatase)

15 Snell s Law explains Refraction of light Snell s raw = n i sinφ i = n f sinφ f Air: RI=1.0 Plastic: RI=1.5

16 2.4. Reflection - Fresnel Loss 100% X% Y%

17 Fresnel Loss Table

18 2.4. The customers need Soft-focus Most frequent Consumers complaints about pressed powders 4% 4% 4% 4% 40% 44% Unnatural looking Stuffy Poor coverage Poor adhesion Poor long lasting etc Natural Look By Soft focus AC Nielsen, N=390 Korea

19 What are Total Transmittance & Haze? High Total Transmittance Low Haze Transparent Not Soft Focused High Total Transmittance High Haze Translucent Soft Focused TT = (P T + T D )/T P T Haze = Td/TT T: incident light T D : Diffuse Transmittance P T : Planar Transmittance T T D

20 Comparison table of TT and Haze Product code Description TT(%) Td(%) Tp(%) Haze Polyester powder Group 3 SUNTITAN-AS TiO SUNTITAN-15 TiO SUNPMMA-TZin30 PMMA+TiO SUNZNO-AS ZnO Group 2 SUNSIL-Tin50 SUNSIL-TZin50 SiO2+TiO2 SiO2+TiO2+ZnO SUNSIL-TZin40 SiO2+TiO3+ZnO SH219 SiO2+TiO SUNSIL-Tin40 SiO2+TiO Group 1 SUNSIL-130SC SUNSIL-130H SiO2 SiO SUNSIL-130 SiO SUNSIL-20 SiO SUNPMMA-S PMMA Used equipment: ColorEye 7000A(GretagMacbeth) Sample preparation: X1000 dilution of powder in IPA Scan wavelength: 360~700nm

21 Haze High TiO 2 opaque ZnO Group 2 TT = 70 Haze = 90 Group 1 TT = 90 Haze = 70 Low TT & Haze Matrix positioning Low transparent Platy BaSO 4 Talc Sericite mica High Total Transmittance

22 Cosmetic Raw Material Presentation SJ_2.2_PowderConvergence_SH219_ver1.0 SH219 CHEMICAL CO is an R&D driven company, dedicated to bring innovations to the cosmetic industry. We have a scope of technologies such as micro bead synthesis technology, encapsulation and composition technology, nano size inorganic synthesis technology and more For more information, please visit our home page: or sales@sunjinchem.co.kr or call office tel: (300) or call mobile: CHEMICAL R&D CENTER

23 High Refractive Index Bead Grade Composition (Silica/TiO2) SH219 Silica 75% TiO2 25% SH219- AS Silica 75% TiO2 25% Refractive Index Surface treatment Silica Bead size / TiO2 crystal size 1.8 none 2~7μm 12nm 1.8 Alkyl silane 2~7 μm 12nm

Overview Material Hybridization @ Cosmetics by Chemical Cosmetic raw materials have been used separately for different objectives traditionally But Can cosmetic raw materials be

24 Overview Material Cosmetics by Chemical Cosmetic raw materials have been used separately for different objectives traditionally But Can cosmetic raw materials be hybridized to have multiple functions combined like Digital Convergence in IT industry? For example How about PMMA bead with sensorial effect and UV protection at the same time?

25 SH219 SH219: Most efficient soft focusing material 2% SH219 5% Urethane Bead PU170 4% 10% 6% 8% 15% 20% Looks like 4% of SH219 5% Silica Bead: 130L 5% PMMA Bead PMMA-S 10% 10% 15% 15% 20% 20% Looks like 3% of SH219 Looks like 5% of SH219 Sample preparation: DC200F-100cs 50% KSG 16 + Powder Make 100%

26 Refractive Index of SH219 RI formula: n = i 2 n i f i 2 n= refractive index i=species of component f= volume fraction of component TiO2 SiO2 n T f n 2 T f n S f n 2 S f sum RI SH SH SH Tin40

27 New SH219 samples for EL SH219EL Lot No JK LOT NO Ref. Submitted to Estee Lauder in Better SiO2 coating 3. Better encapsulation to minimize TiO2 on surface RETRIAL OF JK AT LARGER SCALE 4. Alkyl silane surface treated Particle Size(um) ph O.A(ml/g) TiO2(%) SPF Whiteness(Y.I) Feeling standard Similar to Standard Similar to Standard - RI:1.80 RI:1.79 RI:1.74 RI:1.79

$SH219 Refractive Index: 1.$ Prevention of sebum darkening effect As the silica becomes more transparent by absorbed sebum, TiO2 becomes brighter so the overall

Prevention of sebum darkening effect As the silica becomes more transparent by absorbed sebum, TiO2 becomes brighter so the overall

28 SH219 Refractive Index: 1.8 TiO2 25%, Silica 75% Multiple internal refraction Natural soft focus with optimum coverage 5um Silica Bead With 12nm TiO 2 Prevention of sebum darkening effect As the silica becomes more transparent by absorbed sebum, TiO2 becomes brighter so the overall whiteness of make-up products maintained Spherical so good skin spread & feel Porous so good absorption & long lasting efficacy Good for soft focus for make-ups such as pressed powders, loose powders, liquid foundation, lip sticks, skin covers

29 Use of foundation TiO2 used Soft Focus used

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00.... Fig. 1 2.5%. 51.5%, 46.0%,.. /, Table 1 (U.V.; Ultraviolet 10-400 nm)/ (NIR; Near Infrared 700 nm - 5 µm) ( TiO 2, WO 3, ZnO, CeO, ATO, Sb 2O 3-ZnO, ITO.) (400 nm - 780 nm). /. Fig. 1.. 23 Table 1. / /