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1 Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association J. Korean Home Econ. Assoc. Vol. 50 No. 8, 1-11, December eissn pissn The Application of Traditional Elements in Korean and Chinese Fashion Design in: Lie Sang Bong and Vivienne Tam 1 Department of Clothing & Textiles, Chonnam National University 2 Human Ecology Research Institute, Chonnam National University Abstract The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the application of raditional elements in Lie Sang bong and Vivienne Tam s Fashion Design. The methods of research, the references to the precedents of prior research, fashion related journals, articles, and websites of designers were examined to analyze how each designer reinterpreted the respective homeland s traditions. The designs of Lie Sang bong and Vivienne Tam studied were from the F/W to the 2012 S/S collections. The results are as follow. First, both designers use traditional marks when reinterpreting the traditional clothes of Korea and China. In the case of Lie Sang bong, traditional Korean marks were linked to the western structure. For Vivienne Tam, designs which revived realistic marks identically were displayed. Second, in terms of the modern reinterpretation of the traditional clothes shapes, there were a number of cases in which the silhouettes of their respective country s traditional clothes were mainly brought into their arts. Lie Sang bong was influenced by the line of traditional Korean design. In addition, the atmosphere of the traditional clothes helped to reanalyze the traditional clothes figure. In Vivienne Tam s designs, unique Chinese images were produced by, keeping the original form of the Chinese dress. Third, in the use of the traditional ornament techniques, Lie Sang bong partially introduced and applied traditional ornament techniques while Vivienne Tam largely decorated the traditional. Chinese ornaments while directly utilizing the structuring designs. (Lie Sang Bong), (Vivienne Tam), (modernization), (traditional patterns), (traditional decoration techniques) Corresponding Author : Eun Jung Kim, Department of Clothing & Textile, Chonnam National University, 300 Yongbong-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju, , Korea Tel: , Fax: , kimej0234@hanmail.net Copyright 2012, The Korean Home Economics Association. All rights reserved

National University 2 Human Ecology Research Institute, Chonnam National University Abstract The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the application of raditional elements in Lie Sang

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3 Figure 1. Hangnamjagi collection designed by Lie Sang Bong. Figure 2. Kim Yuna s Skating Costume designed by Lie Sang Bong liesangbong.com)

4 Figure 3. HP s Vivienne Tam mini notebook 2 designed by Vivienne Tam. Figure 4. Hyundai Tucson Butterfly Lovers designed by Vivienne Tam. Figure 5. Lie Sang Bong, 2007 S/S liesangbong.com). Figure 6. Lie Sang Bong, F/W liesangbong.com). Figure 7. Lie Sang Bong, 2007 S/S liesangbong.com). Figure 8. Lie Sang Bong, F/W liesangbong.com). Figure 9. Lie Sang Bong, F/W liesangbong.com). Figure 10. Lie Sang Bong, 2012 S/S - 4 -

Figure 6. Lie Sang Bong, 2009-10 F/W liesangbong.com). Figure 7. Lie Sang Bong, 2007 S/S liesangbong.com). Figure 8.

5 Figure 11. Lie Sang Bong, 2011 S/S (Copy right by design.net). Figure 12. Lie Sang Bong, 2007 S/S (Copyright by com). Figure 13. Lie Sang Bong, F/W liesangbong.com). Figure 14. Lie Sang Bong, F/W (Copyright by www. samsung design.net). Figure 15. Lie Sang Bong, 2011 S/S (Copyright by net). Figure 16. Lie Sang Bong, 2004 S/S (Copyright by Figure 17. Lie Sang Bong, 2005 S/S (Copyright by Figure 18. Lie Sang Bong, 2007 S/S (Copyright by Figure 19. Lie Sang Bong, F/W (Copyright by Figure 20. Lie Sang Bong, F/W (Copyright by www

samsungdesign. net). Figure 16. Lie Sang Bong, 2004 S/S (Copyright by www.liesangbong.com). Figure 17. Lie Sang Bong, 2005 S/S (Copyright by www.liesangbong.com). Figure 18.

6 Figure 21. Vivienne Tam, F/W Figure 22. Vivienne Tam, F/W Figure 23. Vivienne Tam, F/W Figure 24. Vivienne Tam, F/W Figure 25. Vivienne Tam, 2009 S/S (Copyright by design.net). Figure 26. Vivienne Tam, F/W Figure 27. Vivienne Tam, F/W (Copyright by net). Figure 28. Vivienne Tam, F/W (Copyright by net). Figure 29. Vivienne Tam, 2010 S/S (Copyright by www. Figure 30. Vivienne Tam, 2011 S/S (Copyright by Figure 31. Vivienne Tam, F/W (Copyright by net)

Vivienne Tam, 2007-08 F/W (Copyright by www.samsungdesign. net). Figure 28. Vivienne Tam, 2007-08 F/W (Copyright by www.samsungdesign. net). Figure 29.

7 Figure 32. Vivienne Tam, F/W Figure 33. Vivienne Tam, 2010 S/S (Copy right by design.net). Figure 34. Vivienne Tam, F/W Figure 35. Vivienne Tam, F/W style.com). Table 1. Design characteristics of Lie Sang Bong and Vivienne Tam - 7 -

Figure 34. Vivienne Tam, 2006-07 F/W Figure 35.

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9 Table 2. Modern retranslation of tradition presented in Lie Sang Bong and Vivienne Tam Use of traditional patterns Modernization of traditional forms Use of traditional decoration techniques Lie Sang Bong Vivienne Tam A variety of traditional patterns fused with western clothing. Similarity The application of traditional painting. The printing of characters (Hangul and Chinese calligraphy effects) The application Hahoe Mask Realistic Asian imagery of flowers Difference The application of Korean traditional house The patterning of Buddha Dancheong patterns The application of the colors in the traditional costumes (Hanbok and Chipao) Similarity Utilized in various parts of the traditional robe. The use of knot buttons and mandarin collar Difference Utilizing the traditional Korean decorative ribbon Use of the girdle of the Chinese ethnic minorities Similarity Using maedeop decorating on clothing Difference The form of elaborate embroidery and harmony Using traditional colors in patchwork Decoration of nubim Oversized spectacular embroidery Delicate and geometrical paper-cutting The application of beading - 9 -

Vivienne Tam A variety of traditional patterns fused with western clothing. Similarity The application of traditional painting.

10 1. An, M. S., & Kim, Y. S. (2006). Historical clothing and Korea textiles. Seoul: Yehaksa. 2. Choi, K. S. (2010, April 30). Avatar butterfly car appeared!. Maegyeongdatcom. Retrieved March 20, 2012 from 3. Ha, H. H. (2011, June 13). Lie, Sang-Bong and Kim, Joong-Man works in ceramics...europe, even admired in Korea beauty. The Korea Economic Daily. Retrieved March 22, 2012 from com. 4. Hankook Ilbo. (2009, November 24). Revive the disappearing culture, modern costumes. The Hankook Ilbo. Retrieved March 20, 2012 from 5. Hwang, H. K. (2011, May 1). Lie, Sang-Bong Yuna, it is fighting. Yonhap News Agency. Retrieved March 19, 2012 from 6. Jeon, Y. J. (2006, December 25). LG Electronics, Lie, sang-bong s work Shine phone Launching. Sportschosun. Retrieved March 19, 2012 from 7. Joongang Ilbo. (2012, August 25). Knitted origami, such as childhood memories, put on clothes to see. The JoongAng Ilbo. Retrieved August 30, 2012 from 8. Kim, E. J. (2004). A study on the expression of Korean design in modern fashion. Unpublished master s thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea. 9. Kim, H. S. (2012, May 14). Lie Sang Bong designer, Korean beauty combining fashion fame. The Korea Economic Daily. Retrieved August 30, 2012 from Kim, H. W. (2012, January 16). Lie, Sang-Bong designed by Postman uniform. The Asia Economy Daily. Retrieved August 30, 2012 from Kim, I. K. (1995). Study on the characteristics of Korean fashion design: Mainly on the works of fashion designers since 1980s. The Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 19(3), Kim, J. M. (2012, February 12). Fashion Korean wave, The New Yorker enthrall. Maegyeongdatcom. Retrieved March 29, 2012 from Kim, M. K. (2003). A study on eastern and western colors focusing the five colors in modern fashion. Unpublished master s thesis, Sejong University, Seoul, Korea. 14. Kim, S. K. (2004). The characteristics of pattern design in Hanbok fashion fabrics. Society of Korean Traditional Costume, 7(2), Kim, Y. H. (1999). A study on the traditional patterns of the movie. Unpublished master s thesis, Kookmin University, Seoul, Korea. 16. Kim, Y. R. (2011, March 8). Part in the fashion industry China Power. Style M. Retrieved February 29, 2012 from Lee, K. E. (2003). Color research on orientalism fashion: From international fashion collections since Unpublished master s thesis, Hongik University, Seoul, Korea. 18. Lee, M. R. (2008). Development of fashion design using Korean image. Unpublished master s thesis, Catholic University of Daegu, Daegu, Korea. 19. Lee, S. W. (2011, September 9). New York s fashion Korean wave Opportunity for the city. Yonhap News Agency. Retrieved February 29, 2012 from No, M. K., & Kim, C. J. (2008). The ethnic look featured on Vivienne Tam s collection from 1996 to The Korean Society of Costume, 58(6), Shin, K. S. (2012, April 17). Lie Sang Bong designer, Swept away the designer in fashion trends but the Creator. The Korea Economic Daily. Retrieved August 29, 2012 from com

Retrieved March 22, 2012 from www.hankyung. com. 4. Hankook Ilbo. (2009, November 24). Revive the disappearing culture, modern costumes. The Hankook Ilbo. Retrieved March 20, 2012 from www.news.

11 22. Tam, V. (2008). CHINA CHIC. (W. J. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Hangilsa. (Original work published 2000) 23. The Korea Economic Daily. (2009, October 4). Lie Sang Bong designer fashion in Hangul clad maestro. The Korea Economic Daily. Retrieved February 29, 2012 from Vivienne Tam. (2012, March 22). Vivienne Tam: History. Retrieved March 22, 2012 from www. viviennetam.com 25. Wang, K. H. (2007). The influences of Chinese traditional costume on the east asian modern fashion trend. Unpublished master s thesis, Chung-Ang University, Seoul, Korea

hankyung.com 24. Vivienne Tam. (2012, March 22). Vivienne Tam: History. Retrieved March 22, 2012 from www. viviennetam.com 25. Wang, K. H. (2007).

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07.... 01V28. National Election Commission 9 September S M T W T F S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23/30 24 25 26 27 28 29 11 November S M T W T F S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16