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1 Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association 2012;50(5): Characteristics of the Animal Motif Found in Modern Fashion Department of Fashion Design, Sunchon National University Associate Professor : Sun Young Kim Abstract This study looked into the trend of expression of animal motifs that appears in modern fashion, and the values embedded in them. As to the research method, empirical analysis was performed on the works presented at the four global collections of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2001S/S to 2010F/W, as well as a literature review. As a result, animal motifs applied in modern fashion appeared in material groups, such as leather or feather. The first group shows a realistic material feel, with artificial leather or fur, expressed in a transformed complex animal motif, with process skill or various methods of expression. The second group is the case of a single motif or reality, mode, and abstraction pattern. Printing is a generic expression, but patchwork, collage or bead ornament are also used, and expressed in the various forms of pattern: pattern in a single animal, pattern in different animals, and pattern combining both animal and other shape. The third group is a small decorative ornament, including headset or accessory and makeup, which is transformed in an animal-characterized motif into part of clothing components for expression, or to set the real animal to the stage for a performance. The embedded values were also categorized as natural beauty, sensual female beauty, pleasure, and ornamentation, which could be an endless spiritual source, and a breakthrough that enables us to show a creative and new aesthetic for the modern fashion field. (animal motif), (naturalness), (sensuality), (pleasure), (ornamentation) Corresponding Author : Sun Young Kim, Department of Fashion Design, Sunchon National University, 255 Jungangno, Sunchon, Chonnam, , Korea Tel: Fax: ksy6341@sunchon.ac.kr *

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4 Table 1. Used as material 1-1. Ungaro, 2002F/W 1-2. Valentino, 2007F/W 1-3. Dominique Sirop, 2005F/W 1-4. Valentino, 2010S/S 1-5. Alexander McQueen, 2008S/S 1-6. Yves Saint Laurent, 2007F/W 1-7. Chanel, 2010F/W 1-8. Under Cover, 2007F/W (all at

5 Table 2. Utilization of reality patterns 2-1. Ann Demeulemeester, 2010S/S 2-2. Salvatore Ferragamo, 2009S/S 2-3. Pierrot, 2003S/S 2-4. Dolce & Gabbana, 2005S/S 2-5. Jean Paul Gaultier, 2007S/S 2-6. Moschino, 2010S/S (all at

6 Table 3. Utilization of mode patterns 3-1. Blumarine, 2009F/W 3-2. Christian Dior, 2008S/S 3-3. Vivienne Westwood, 2001F/W 3-4. Just Cavalli, 2008F/W 3-5. Prada, 2005S/S 3-6. Alexander McQueen, 2008F/W (all at

7 Table 4. Utilization of abstraction patterns 4-1. Basso & Brooke, 2010F/W 4-2.Proenza Schouler, 2010S/S 4-3.Versace, 2001F/W (all at Table 5. Used as fashion ornament and others 5-1. Jean Paul Gaultier, 2010F/W 5-2. Gareth Pugh, 2010S/S 5-3. Victor & Rolf, 2004F/W 5-4. Franck Sorbier, 2005F/W 5-5. Seredin & Vasiliev, 2002S/S 5-6. Marjan Pejoski, 2001S/S 5-7. Castelbajac, 2007F/W (all at

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9 Table 6. Characteristics of the animal motif found in modern fashion Category Trend of expression of animal motif Embedded value Material Direct use of leather, fur, and feather of real animal Expressed in realistic material feel with artificial leather or fur Expressed in transformed complex animal motif with process skill or various expression methods Stressed with an animal motif combined with different animal materials in one item of clothes, or expressed for sensual beauty combined with visible material or Naturalness Sensuality Ornamentation glossary material Pattern Expressed in diverse patterns, such as reality, mode and abstraction Printing is a generic expression, but patchwork, collage or bead ornament are also used. Expressed in the various forms for pattern: pattern in single animal, pattern in different animals, and pattern combined in both animal and other shape Naturalness Sensuality Pleasure Ornamentation Fashion ornament and others Applied the animal motif to accessory, handbag, shoe, hair ornament and makeup, in addition to clothing Transformed the animal-characterized motif into part of clothing components for expression Set the real animal to the stage for performance Naturalness Pleasure Ornamentation

10 Animal 1. (2011, September 15). Daum encyclopedia. Animal 2. (2011, September 15). Daum language dictionary. Animal pattern. (2011, September 15). Samsung design net. Animal prints and leather are in vogue in the fashion world. (2011, September 15). Naver blog. Cho, G-G. (1985). A study on animal pattern of textile in Chosun period. Unpublished master s thesis, Hongik University, Seoul, Korea. Cho, J-H. (2009). Comparative analysis of the type of

11 textile designs by period in domestic apparel textile. Unpublished master s thesis, Duksung Women s University, Seoul, Korea. Cho, M-S. (2009). A study on creating a new emblem for the unified Korea using an animal as motif: focusing on emblems for national football teams. Unpublished master s thesis, Hongik University, Seoul, Korea. Cho, Y-H. (2005). Philosophy of the arts. Seoul: Misulmunwha. Colebrook, C. (2004). Gilles Deleuze. (M-J, Baek, Trans.). Seoul: Taehak. (Original work published 2002) Ha, J-S. (1994). Playfulness in modern fashion. Journal of the Korean society of costumes, 22, Jung, J-S. (1997). A development study on natural image pattern design: with focused on animal pattern. Unpublished master s thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea. Kim, R-H. (2009). Comparative analysis of symbolic animal pattern in Korea and India. Journal of Communication Design. 30, Kim, S-Y. (2009). Characteristics of fur design in the contemporary fashion: mainly focused on works after the year Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 33(4), Kim, S-Y. (2010). Expressive characteristics of floral images in contemporary fashion. Journal of the Korean society of costumes, 60(8), Kim, S-W. (2007, December 1). The allure of fur. Harper s Bazaar, p Kim, T-Y. (2005). Research for symbolic aesthetic consciousness of animal: focusing on the animals related to the primitive religion. Unpublished master s thesis, Kukmin University, Seoul, Korea. Kim, W-K. (2010). A study of sportswear designs using the tiger motif found in folk painting. Journal of the Korean society of costumes, 60(5), Kwak, D-O., Kim, S-H., Kim, H-W., Baek, T-H., Lee, B- W., Jeon, Y-I., et al. (1994). Encyclopedia of design. Seoul: Sungryemun. Lee, G-H. (1986). Introduction to design. Seoul: Yurimmunwhasa. Lee, M-G. (2006). A study on the semiotic approach of logo in sportswear brand. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 14(2), Lee, Y-J.(2006). Comparative study on the symbol of animal pattern in the east and west costume. Korean Journal of Human Ecology, 15(3), Lee, I-S. (2004). Study on the sensible expression of flowers in textile design: focused on flower collage. Unpublished master s thesis, Sungkyunkwan University, Seoul, Korea. Park, I-S. (2009). A study on the ceramic ornaments motivated by animal image. Unpublished master s thesis, Sangmyung University, Seoul, Korea. Park, J-E. (2009). Development and investigation of conversational textile printing design in collection. Unpublished master s thesis, Kyunghee University, Seoul, Korea. Shin, G-H. (2007, November 1). What a colorful fur. Vogue Korea, p Symbolism of animal folklore. (2011, September 15). Korea national heritage online. heritage.go.kr. Takashi, H. (2004). European history by crest. (J-H. Park, Trans.). Goyang: Dalgwaso. (Original work published 1998)

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-02-...... Characteristics of Blue Costumes in Contemporary Fashion Department of Fashion Design, Sunchon National University Associate Professor : Sun Young Kim This paper purports to find the characteristics