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1 < 세계에서가장아름다운옷감- 명주> -Arirang TV : weekly pro- Ancestral Legacies 11회 방송 프롤로그 창덕궁문열리며왕비한복입은모습 종묘제례의 가는올이비치는명주천 이영희한복패션쇼, 파리프레타포르테한복패션쇼 색색의명주천 부드러운촉감과우아한광택으로예로부터왕족 과귀족들의전용의상이던 한국의 silk fabric, 명주.. 그올이가늘고고와, silk 의생산지로알려진중국에서 최고의 옷감이다. silk로각광받던세계에서가장아름다운 For many years, Myeongju, which is Korean silk fabric, was reserved for kings and the royal family due to its unparalled beauty, softness, and shiny texture. The threads of silk are thin and refined... Silk originated in China and it is regarded as the most beautiful fabric in the world. Title : The world's finest fabric - Myeongju, Korea's silk fabric 역사 기메박물관외경 / 한국유물있는내부 < 누에뽕주기> < 물레질> < 베날기> < 베매기> < 비단짜기 > 김준근, 19C, 프랑스기메박물관소장 세계최고의동양전문박물관으로유명한 프랑스기메박물관.. 이곳엔한국의 silk fabric인 명주의제작과정을 모두이해할수있는그림들이보관돼있다. silk 의원료인누에를기르고, 고치에서실을뽑아내는방법과 silk fabric 으로직조하는방법이상세히그려져 있다. 한국의 silk fabric인 명주의제작비법을서양에 - 1 -

2 이식(transplantation) 하고자하는서양선교사의 요청으로한국화가가그린것이다. The Guimet Museum has one of the largest collections of Asian art in the world. The museum has an exhibtion of ancient texts that show how myeongju is made. There are detailed pictures of silkworms being raised, silk extracted from cocoons, and the weaving process of silk cloth. A Korean artist painted these pictures at the request of a western missionary who wanted to introduce silk-making techniques to his country. 아름다운명주천의결과광택 ( 다양한색감) 예로부터아름다운광택과부드러운촉감으로 외국에서그제작비법을알고자했던 한국의 silk fabric, 명주.. Possessing a beautiful and shiny texture, Myeongju was so enchanting that foreigners wanted to know the secrets on how to make it. 고구려벽화-생활상과사람들옷입은모습 찻잔들고가는여시중 세계문화유산으로지정된고구려벽화에는당시 고대한국인들의생활상을이해할수있는그림들 이그려져있는데, 모두 silk로된의상을입고 있는것을발견할수있다. 지배계층( 귀족) 까지 silk 뿐만아니라시중을드는하녀들 의상을입을정도로 silk 를대량으로생산했던한국.. The drawings depicted in the Goguryeo wall paintings, which are designated as a World Heritage Site, show the everyday life of ancient Koreans and it has been noted that the clothes worn by the people in the drawings were made out of silk. Not only were the ruling class members wearing silk clothes but even the servants were draped in silk from head to toe. This indicates that silk was mass produced in Korea in ancient times. 원행을묘정리의궤도, 봉수당진찬도, 화성능행도 대동여지도, 충무공이순신선무공신교서, 김시민장군공신교서 송광사고려고종제서 명주( 비단) 로만든각종문서와그림, 영정, 탱화 - 그림과문서섞어서편집해주시길 - 2 -

3 천(fabric) 이매끄럽고질겨서국가의중요행사와역사적사실을후세에기록으로전하기위해명주에그림을그리고문서를기록했는데, 오늘날까지전해지고있다. Since silk was tough and smooth, silk cloth was used as painting canvases or to record important historical events by palace officials. These records and paintings are still intact today. BR: 고구려벽화 / < 누숙경직도> 나 < 비단짜기> / 아름다운명주천 5 천년의역사 세계최고의직조기술 세계에서가장아름다운옷감의대명사 한국의 silk fabric, 명주 양잠-< 누에뽕주기> 옛날그림위로자막 프롤로그처음- 뽕밭 / 하얀실만드는누에고치 / 누에뽕잎먹는 뽕잎따는 / 누에에게뽕잎주는 땅이비옥하고기후가온화해야잘자라는 뽕나무. 미네랄과단백질이풍부해서명주의원료가되는 누에(silkworm) 가좋아하는먹이(feed) 다. 하루에 5~6차례누에가뽕잎을먹는데 그때마다신선한뽕잎을따다줘야하기때문에, 양잠은매우번거로운작업이다. Mulberry trees grow well in temperate climates where the soil is fertile. The leaves of mulberry trees are rich in protein and minerals, and thus, silkworms prefer to feed on mulberry leaves. A silkworm will eat five or six times a day and must be supplied with freshly-plucked mulberry leaves each time it eats. 경복궁부감 / 창덕궁연못 친잠례 ( 왕비모습) < 숙종어제잠직도> < 누숙경직도> < 누에뽕주기> 그래서한국이왕조시대이던조선시대에는 백성들에게양잠을권장하기위해 왕비가친히뽕잎을따고누에를기르는 모범을보였다. During the Joseong Dynasty era, the queen encouraged people to raise - 3 -

4 silkworms by having a painting drawn of herself plucking a mulberry leaf and feeding it to a silkworm. 누에나방이알낳는모습 어린뽕잎난뽕나무 누에알 누에로 누에나방(silkworm moth) 이낳은알을국가에서 백성들에게나누어줬다. 누에알은뽕잎이나기시작하는따뜻한봄에, 알에서깨어나누에가된다. 개미처럼작다하여 개미누에 라고부른다. The eggs laid by the silkworm moth were distributed among the commoners around the kingdom. The eggs hatch in spring when the mulberry trees start to grow new leaves. Newly-hatched silkworms are very tiny. 어린뽕잎따는 / 개미누에에게뽕잎주는이때부터뽕잎을따서줘야하는데, 이슬이아침햇살에사라진오전에따서준다. 물기에젖은뽕잎을주면누에가상하기때문인데, 신선하고윤기가흐르는뽕잎을먹은누에가광택있는실을뽑아낸다. The silkworm has to be fed with mulberry leaves that are plucked in the morning without any dew on them. Moisture can harm the silkworms. Silkworms that feed on fresh, shiny mulberry leaves produce lustrous silk. 방안의양잠모습 / 1 령누에허물벗는 / 5령누에되기까지 3 일간뽕잎을먹은누에는하루동안아무것도 먹지않고잠을잔다. 이때, 누에가잠을푹잘수있게 잠실(silkworm-raising room) 의온도와습도를 일정하게유지해준다. 하루동안자고난뒤누에가허물을벗는다. 고치를만드는어른누에가되기까지총 을벗는데, 어른누에는개미누에보다체중이 4번허물 10,000 배, 실샘(silk gland) 의크기는 140,000 배증가한다. After eating mulberry leaves for 3 days, the silkworms will sleep for one full - 4 -

5 day without eating anything. The temperature and humidity levels of the silkworm-raising room have to be maintained at optimal conditions, allowing the silkworm to sleep undisturbed. After it sleeps for one full day, the silkworm will shed its skin. It will shed its skin four times until it becomes fully grown, whereupon it will begin spinning a cocoon. An adult silkworm weighs 10,000 times more than a newly-hatched silkworm and its silk gland will also grow 140,000 times larger than before. 뽕잎타고올라가며먹는누에 / 잠박에뽕잎올려주는 / 통풍잘되는잠박 누에는상향성동물이어서 뽕잎을타고위로올라가며먹는다. 누에가먹기편하게 누에채반(silkworm tray) 에뽕잎을올려준다. 누에채반(silkworm tray) 은통풍이잘되는 대나무나싸리나무를엮어서만든다. 주위환경이눅눅하면누에가상하기때문이다. Silkworms have a tendency of climbing to higher areas and that is why they will crawl up a mulberry tree as they munch on the leaves. The mulberry leaves are laid down on a silkworm tray to makes it easier for the silkworms to eat them. The tray is made out of bamboo and bush clover branches that are lashed together. This tray allows for good air circulation which is important for the silkworm because it cannot survive in damp conditions. 누에를솔잎에올리기 / 고치짓기 / 누에고치 누에가다자라서고치를만들때가되면, 자리를잡을수있게솔잎을놓아준다. 실샘(silk gland) 에실(silk thread) 이가득찬 누에는, 탐스럽고윤기가흐르는실(silk thread) 을 뽑아내기시작한다. 누에 1 마리가뽑아내는실(silk thread) 의길이는 약 1500 미터인데, 천연섬유중섬유의길이가가장길다. 누에는약 60 시간동안실(silk thread) 을뽑아내 2.5g 정도되는타원형의고치(cocoon) 를 완성하는데, 이고치들은명주의원료가된다. When a silkworm is fully grown and ready to spin a cocoon, pine needles are laid down to provide a comfortable spot for it. The silkworm's silk gland is - 5 -

6 full of fluid that will produce a silk thread. It will spin a shiny silk thread. A single silkworm can produce a strand of silk that can reach a length of 1500 meter. This is the longest natural fiber found in the animal world. It takes the silkworm about 60 hours to completely spin a cocoon, which normally weighs about 2.5 grams. The cocoon's silk is unraveled to make Myeongju. 잠령제 ( 제사지내는) 누에고치(cocoon) 가완성되면, 국가에서타고난생(life) 을다살지못하고 미리생을마감하게되는누에들의영혼을 위로하기위해제사(sacrificial rites) 를지낸다. When the silkworm finishes spinning its cocoon, a national ritual used to be held to soothe the soul of the silkworm as it will die before it can transform into a moth. 누에고치에서번데기로변해서, 나방되어나오는 / 짝짓기 / 알낳기 원래누에는누에고치속에서잠을자다약 만에누에나방(silkworm moth) 으로변신하여 누에고치밖으로나온다. 15일 누에나방(silkworm moth) 은누에고치(cocoon) 에 서나오자마자암수가만나짝을짓는다. 짝을지은뒤수컷은정력이고갈하여그자리에 서죽고, 암컷은짝지은지 4-5일뒤약 500개 의알을낳고곧바로죽는다. Normally, a silkworm will take 15 days to emerge from its cocoon as a moth. As soon as the moth crawls out of its cocoon it will begin mating. After two moths mate, the male will die immediately after expending all of its energy. Meanwhile, the female will lay about 500 eggs 5 days later and die afterwards as well. BR: 뽕나무~ 하얀고치실 / 아름다운명주천 놀라운변신 자연의혜택 세계에서가장부드럽고가는실 (thread) 한국의 silk fabric, 명주 실써기- 제사 (silk-reeling)-< 물레질> 옛날그림위로자막 - 6 -

7 누에고치들 / 누에고치손질 / 솥에물붓고아궁이에불지펴끓이는 끓는물에누에고치넣고놋젓가락으로젓기 명주의원료인누에고치 (cocoon). 누에고치속에돌돌말린실(silk thread) 을뽑아내 기위해솥(ca(u)ldron) 에물을넣고끓인다. 끓는물에누에고치를넣고놋젓가락 (brass chopsticks) 으로살살휘젓는다. 놀랍게도누에고치안에들어있던 실(silk thread) 이살살풀려나오기시작한다. Myeongju is made from these silk cocoons. In order to unravel the silk threads from the tightly woven cocoon, the cocoon is boiled in hot water. Brass chopsticks are used to gently stir the hot water filled with cocoons. Miraculously, the silk threads will begin to unravel in the water. 고치에서뽑아져나오는가는실 / 합사 누에고치에서실(silk thread) 을뽑아내는것을 제사(silk-reeling) 라고한다. 고치(cocoon) 에서뽑아져나온실(silk thread) 은 매우가늘기때문에 10여개이상의실이합쳐져야 천(fabric) 을짤(weave) 수있기때문에 일정한힘으로합사(twist threads together) 해야 한다. 그래야실의두께가일정하다. Unraveling a long silk thread from a cocoon is called silk reeling. Since the raw silk threads are very thin, ten of them need to be twisted together to make a thread that can be used for weaving a silk cloth. Therefore, ten threads must be simultaneously twisted together at a steady rate to prevent any irregularities from occurring in the width of the threads. 아궁이불 제사(silk-reeling) 할때, 물이너무끓으면 실(silk thread) 이까실까실해지고, 덜끓으면합사(twist threads together) 가안되고 실(silk thread) 이껄끄러워지기때문에불조절을 잘해야한다. 땔감(firewood) 은잘마른나무를사용해야 실(silk thread) 의광택이있다

8 If the water is too hot while the silk is being reeled, then the threads will become rough. If the water is not hot enough, then the threads will become coarse and not stick to each other when they are twisted into a single strand. This is why the temperature of the boiling water must be kept at the right temperature. The firewood used to heat the water needs to be made from dry logs in order to give the silk thread its special shine. 물레에실감기 고치에서뽑아져나온실(silk thread) 을 물레(spinning wheel) 에감는다. 실(silk thread) 이매우가늘기때문에 실이끊어지지않도록조심스레감는다. 고치 1개에서뽑아져나오는실의길이가 1500미터이기때문에고치 1개에서뽑아져 나오는실을물레에감는데도시간이꽤걸린다. The silk threads extracted from the cocoon are spun on a spinning wheel. Since the threads are very thin, they must be carefully spun to prevent them from breaking. It takes hours to unravel the silk on the spinning wheel because a single cocoon can produce a strand of silk that is 1500 meters long, 물렛살한쪽을풀어실타래내리는 / 고운명주실꾸러미 물레에실이어느정도감기면, 물레에감긴실타래(bunch) 를물레에서빼낸다. 실에붙어있는번데기(chrysalis) 실들이엉키지않게잘정리해서놓는다. 드디어세상에서가장곱고광택있는 명주 silk thread 를얻은것이다. 껍질을털어내고 When nearly all the silk is spun, the bunch of silk extracted from the cocoon is removed from the spinning wheel. The shell of the chrysalis is also detached from the silk and the clump of silk is carefully set aside so that it will not get tangled. This is how fine silk threads are extracted. 실내리기- 가락( 실패) 에실감기 (rolling threads at the bobbin) 돌것에실걸고가락에실감기 / 가락꽂이에서가락빼내기 / 소쿠리가락들 천(fabric) 으로직조(weave) 할수있는 방적사(yarn) 를만들기위해, 실타래(silk thread - 8 -

9 bunch) 를돌것(spinning tool) 에올려놓고, 물레(spinning wheel) 를돌려서가락(bobbin) 에 실(silk thread) 을감는다(roll). 물레(spinning wheel) 가돌아가는동력(motive) power) 에의해가락(bobbin) 이돌아가고, 그힘에의해돌것(spinning tool) 도돌아가며 실(silk thread) 을풀어내면서 가락(bobbin) 에실(silk thread) 이감긴다(roll). 실(silk thread) 이다감기면, 가락(bobbin) 을 가락꽂이(stick) 에서빼낸다. ( 그런뒤실(silk thread) 이너무가늘어서실끝을 찾기힘들기때문에, 실끝을찾기쉽게실(silk thread) 끝을한지 (Korean paper) 로묶어서표시해둔다.) 날실(warp threads) 을만들수있는형태로실을 준비했으니, 이제날실을만들차례이다. To make a silk yarn that is suitable for weaving, the bunch of raw silk is attached to a spinning tool and spun on the spinning wheel to wind it around the spindle. The spindle is rotated through the motions of the spinning wheel. Likewise, the spinning tool will also rotate together with the wheel and the silk threads will be spun around the spindle. After the silk thread is completely transferred to the spindle, it is pulled out of the stick that is holding it. Since it is very difficult to find the end of a silk thread, hanji is used to tie the ends. The silk can finally be made into warp threads, which is the next process of weaving silk. 실날기-날실만들기 (Making warp threads)-< 베날기> 옛그림위로자막 날틀구멍에가락꽂기 / 가락에서실풀어고무대에끼우기 / 첫새에묶기 천(fabric) 으로직조(weave) 할수있는날실(warp threads) 로만들기위해 silk threads 가감긴가락(bobbin) 을 날틀(10-holed warp-adjuster for a loom) 에 건다. 가락(bobbin) 에서실을하나씩풀어 10개의구멍 에하나씩넣어서구멍밖으로잡아뺀다. 그런뒤 10 첫번째말뚝에묶는다. 가닥의실을한데모아쥐고 - 9 -

10 To prepare the silk for weaving, it must be made into warp threads and the process begins by setting silk-wrapped spindles onto a 10-holed warp-adjuster. One strand of silk is threaded through each hole. 10 자재기 / 중간새말뚝박기 / 실갖고지그재그이동 그런뒤 3 미터만큼실을자로재서(measure) 그길이만큼떨어진곳에두번째말뚝을박고 그곳에실을건다. 같은방법으로 실을건다. 3개의말뚝을더설치하고 이렇게하는이유는, 짜고자(weave) 하는 천(fabric) 의길이만큼날실을마련하기위해서다. A ruler is used to measure a 3-meter length of the silk. Then, a small stake is used to mark the length and a silk thread is attached to the stake. Three more stakes are installed and silk threads are attached to each one. These markers are used to accurately set the length of the silk cloth. 새쫓기 / 실날기순서다시거꾸로 마지막말뚝에실을걸기전에 실을한올씩모두 건다. 10개의실올을엄지손가락에 이때의동작이새를쫓는모습과비슷하다하여 새쫓기( 영어로) 라한다. 이동작을하는이유는, 왔던길을다시돌아중간에있는말뚝에 실을걸때, 실이엉키지않도록고리를형성하기 위해서다. Before the threads are attached to the last stake, the 10 separate silk strands are tied around the weaver's thumb. This technique is called saejotki, which means chasing the birds away, and it will prevent the threads from getting tangled as they are threaded through the middle stake once more. 반복해서왕복 / 천으로묶기 5 개의말뚝에계속실을걸면서날실을준비하는 데, 날실 80 올이됐을때, 천조각으로묶어표시를한다. 이렇게하는이유는,

11 짜고자(weave) 하는천(fabric) 의길이만큼정확히 날실을계산해서마련하기위해서다. The warp threads are attached to the 5 stakes over and over until they make 80 strands. A piece of cloth is tied around the strands as a marker. The marker is used to set the exact length of the fabric that will be woven later. 마지막매듭묶기 / 개미찍기 짜고자(weave) 하는천(fabric) 의길이만큼날실을 마련한뒤, 두번째말뚝에숯검정을칠해서이부분이 절반의위치라는것을표시한다. 숯검정이찍힌옷감을받은사람은, 이부분이행운을준다고믿어기뻐했다. After enough warp threads are obtained to weave a cloth of a predetermined length, the second stake is painted black with charcoal soot. This will indicate the halfway mark. The soot will rub off onto the silk threads and leave black marks on the finished cloth but these markings are considered to bring good luck. 말뚝에서실빼내걷으면서고리짓기 날실을마련한뒤, 5 개의말뚝에걸린실들을걷는다(gather). 이때, 실이서로엉키지않고, 풀때에도잘풀리게하기위해 나비형고리를만들어서실을걷는다. After a sufficient amount of warp threads have been obtained, the threads attached to the five stakes are gathered together carefully so they won't get tangled. They are tied together into a butterfly-shaped tie, which is easy to untie later. 바디꿰기 (Running a thread through the yarn guide) 바디작업준비( 대청마루) / 날실을바디에끼우기 이제짜고자(weave) 하는옷감폭(width) 으로 맞추기위해날실을바디(yarn guide) 에꿸차례. 이제날실을바디에꿸차례. 대나무로만든촘촘한바디(yarn guide) 살(tooth) 틈새에날실을두올씩끼운다

12 Now it is time to thread the silk through the yarn guide, which will determine the width of the cloth. The yarn guide is made from bamboo, and two strands of silk are inserted between the teeth of the guide. 바늘에서실빼어천으로묶기 80 올을끼울때마다천조각으로묶어표시한다. 이렇게하는이유는, 짜고자(weave) 하는천(fabric) 의길이만큼날실을 정확히계산해서끼우기위해서다. 명주 1 필(roll of cloth) 을짜기위해선 silk threads 1,120 올을바디(yarn guide) 에 끼워야하는데, 촘촘한바디(yarn guide) 살(tooth) 틈새에날실을 일일이꿰기란매우어렵다. 그래서섬세한손놀림과고도의기술을가진 장인만이할수있는일이다. A piece of cloth is used to mark the area where 80 strands of silk have been threaded through the yarn guide. The purpose of this is to calculate the exact length of the fabric. In order to produce one roll of cloth, 1,120 silks strands have to be threaded through the yarn guide. However, it is a difficult task to thread two strands through each space in the yarn guide. Therefore, only skilled weavers can expertly complete this process. 베매기- 풀(starch) 먹이기-< 베매기> 옛날그림위로자막 실이다꿰어진바디 / 들말과끄싱개놓여진마당 silk threads 를짤(weave) 수있는형태로 준비했으니, 이제직조(weave) 할때실이팽팽하게탄력을 유지하고, 끊어지지않게 실에풀(starch) 을먹일차례. Now the silk threads can finally be woven on a loom. Starch is applied to the strands of silk to ensure that they will not break as they are stretched tightly across the loom.. 콩풀만들기 우선콩을곱게찧어풀로만든다. 콩풀은 silk threads의표면을매끈하고단단하게

13 만드는코팅역할을한다. The starch is made from beans, which are steamed first. A coat of bean starch will make the silk smoother and stronger. 도투마리에날실얹기 / 천조각풀기 바디(yarn guide) 에꿴 silk threads를풀칠하기 편하게도투마리(warp beam of a loom) 에건다. 풀칠하기편하게 천조각도풀어준다. silk threads 중간에묶었던 The silk threads, which are threaded through the yarn guide, are attached to the warp beam of the loom to allow the weaver to evenly apply the bean starch. The pieces of cloth that were used as markings are also removed. 풀칠하기 그런뒤, silk threads 에콩풀을칠한다. 콩풀이 silk threads에골고루스며들게하기위해 손으로문지르고솔(brush) 로쓸어준다. 이렇게하는이유는, silk thread가너무가늘고 부드러워서직조(weave) 하기힘들기때문에, 콩풀을먹여서 silk threads의표면강도를강하게 해서직조(weave) 하기쉽게하기위해서다. After this, bean starch is applied to the silk threads. The weaver will use a brush and his or her hands to evenly apply the bean starch. Since it is difficult to weave raw silk, which is very thin and soft, bean starch is applied to make the threads stronger. 도투마리감기 풀칠한부분이마르면도투마리 (warp beam of a loom) 에감는다. 이때, silk threads 가상하지않게한지(Korean paper) 로싼뱁대(thread-spacer) 를중간에 넣어준다. 풀칠된실이서로붙지않게해줌과동시에 도투마리(warp beam of a loom) 에감길실의 간격과탄력을유지시켜주기때문이다. After the bean starch dries, the silk is wrapped around the warp beam. Hanji paper is inserted between the thread-spacer to protect the silk threads. The

14 paper will also prevent the coated silk from sticking to each other, maintain a certain space between the silk strands, and keep them tightly stretched across the loom. 마지막콩풀칠 / 실자르고 silk threads 에콩풀을모두칠한뒤, ( 묶여있던) 실을자른다. 드디어한국의 날실준비완료! silk fabric 인명주를짤(weave) After the bean starch is applied to the silk threads, the tied ends of the silk strands are cut off. Now the silk has been made into warp threads, which will be woven into a silk fabric. 꾸리감기- 씨실감기(Spinning woof) 꾸리감기 날실을준비했으니, 이제씨실(woof) 을만들차례. 씨실을대나무막대에 cross 형태로감는다. 나중에베틀로천(fabric) 을짤(weave) 때 실풀림이좋게하기위해서다. 드디어한국의 silk fabric인 모든재료들이준비됐다. 명주를짤 (weave) After the warp threads have been prepared, it is time to make woofs. The woofs are tied across the bamboo stick in a cross pattern. This pattern will allow the threads to unravel without getting stuck during the weaving process. Everything is set to weave myeongju. 베짜기- 명주짜기(Weaving silk fabric)-< 비단짜기> 옛날그림위로자막 베틀에도투마리올리기 이제본격적으로한국의 짤(weave) 차례. 우선날실을베틀에건다. silk fabric인 명주를 Now it is time to weave myeongju on the loom. First, warp threads are tied to the loom. 잉앗실만들어걸기 그다음엔, 잉아(warp ties) 를만든다

15 잉아는베틀에건날실을한칸씩걸러서끌어올려서그사이로씨실이통과할수있게만드는장치(contrivance) 다. 잉아를베틀에건다음, Then the weaver will make warp ties. When the warp ties are pulled, it will allow the warp threads and woofs to cross each other in one pass to make a weave. 베틀에앉는 / 날실사이에비경이끼우기 / 바디집끼우기 / 짜는 명주짜기숙련자가베틀앞에앉는다. 씨실이통과하기쉽게잉아(warp ties) 에걸린 날실과잉아에걸리지않은날실사이에 비경이(stretcher[warp] beam) 를끼워사이를 벌려놓는다. 그런뒤, silk fabric 을직조(weave) 할때 무게감을주기위해바디(yarn guide) 에 바디집(heck) 을끼운다. 이제직조할준비를다갖췄으니, 한국의 시작한다. silk fabric인 명주를본격적으로짜기 After the warp ties are attached, a master myeongju weaver will sit in front of the loom. Set between the warp threads, the stretcher beam will create space for the woofs, allowing them to pass through the loom without getting snagged. Next, a heck will be attached to the yarn guide to give it some heft. Tthe weaver can now begin weaving cloth. 베틀작동모습 베틀신(the treadle shoe of a loom) 을신은 오른발을잡아당긴다. 그동력에의해잉아(warp ties) 가위로올라간다. 이때벌어진날실사이로북(shuttle) 을넣는다. 그안에들어있던씨실이풀려나오면, 잡아당겼던베틀신 (the treadle shoe of a loom) 을놓는다. 그동력에의해위로올라갔던잉아(warp ties) 가 밑으로내려오고, 이때, 바디(yarn guide) 를숙련자앞으로잡아당겨

16 날실과씨실이교직(mixed[combined] weave) 되게한다. The weaver will wear the treadle shoe of a loom on her right foot and pull it back to lift the warp ties. She will then pass the shuttle through the space between the warp ties. As the woofs unravel, the weaver will make the warp ties come down by putting her right foot forward. As the weaver pulls the yarn guide towards her body, the warp threads and woofs will be woven together. 콩기름바르기 / 바디이동해베짜기 / 물기적시기 / 베짜기 작업중간중간에바디에콩기름을발라움직임을 부드럽게해주고, silk threads 에물기(moisture;dampness;wetness) 를줘서실이끊어지지않고부드럽게짜지게 한다. Soybean oil is applied to the yarn guide to make it run smoothly through the silk. And the oil will also keep the silk threads moist, which makes it soft, preventing the threads from breaking. 집풍경 ( 시간경과) / 베틀노래 / 베틀에서완성된명주 명주 1 필(roll of cloth) 을짜기위해선 15 일밤낮을꼬박베틀앞에앉아있어야했기에, 옛한국여인들은천(fabric) 을짤때노래를 불렀다. 고운천을만들어서가족들에게입히고싶다는 소망을담았는데, 노래를부르다보면, 어느새 silk fabric이다 짜졌다. It would take a weaver 15 long days to weave one roll of myeongju cloth on a loom so many of them would sing songs while weaving. The songs they sang were about their wishes to make silk clothes for their family and after such singing, they'd finish weaving the silk cloth in no time. 가위로자르고 / 베틀분해 완성된 silk fabric 을베틀에서내리고, 베틀을분해해서나중에사용할수있게 보관한다

17 The finished piece of silk cloth is removed from the loom and the loom itself is disassembled and stored away until it is needed. BR: 누에고치에서실뽑아~ 베짜기수천만번의손길과정성 5천년동안전승된직조비법한국의 silk fabric, 명주 명주빨기- 명주정련하기(refining silk fabric) 생명주빨래 베틀에서갓짜여나온명주는콩풀이칠해져 있기때문에곰팡이가슬고벌레가끼기쉽기 때문에맑은물에빤다. Since the myeongju is coated with a layer of bean starch, it will attract bugs and promote the growth of fungus. Thus, it is rinsed in clear water right after it is removed from the loom. 짚으로잿물만들어명주삷기 풀기(starchiness) 를완전히없애기위해짚으로 잿물을만들어명주를잿물에삶는다. silk fabric 오랫동안보관하고 섬유를파괴하지않고불순물을제거해 수있게하기위해서이다. silk fabric에염색을잘들일 To eliminate all the starch from the fabric, it is boiled in a cauldron full of caustic soda, which is made from straw. This process will not harm the fibers while removing all kinds of impurities at the same time. It will also prepare the fabric for the dyeing process. 항아리머리에이는 / 냇물에빨기 잿물에삶은명주를흐르는물에여러번빤다. 알칼리성성분인잿물이남아있으면, 옷감(fabric) 이상할우려가있기때문에 silk fabric 에서잿물을완전히빼기위해서이다. After the myeongju is boiled in caustic soda, it is rinsed in running water several times. If the alkaline content from the caustic soda remains in the silk cloth, it will slowly destroy the fabric. That is why the caustic soda is thoroughly rinsed out of the fabric

18 널려서말리는명주빨래를마친명주를햇빛에말린다. 표백효과가있다. After the myeongju is rinsed, it is naturally bleached under the sun rays. 말린명주잡아당기고다듬이질 말린명주를도침 (smoothing cloth by beating it on a fulling block) 한다. 이과정을거치면, silk fabric 의밀도가높아지고, silk fabricf 의표면에광택이난다. 한국의 silk fabric인명주가 500년이상썩지 않고오랜세월강인한생명력을지닐수있는 이유이다. The sun-dried myeongju is beaten with wooden clubs to give it a smooth texture. The beating process will make the fabric denser and shinier. All of these processes help myeongju last for as long as 500 years. 명주( 비단에) 염색 / 수놓은명주( 비단) / 명주로만든한복과작품들 곱게정련(refining) 한 silk fabric에원하는 color 로염색한다. 그위에수(embroidery) 를놓기도하는데, silk fabric 으로만든옷은옛날이나지금이나 고가(high price;costliness; expensiveness) 이다. The smooth silk fabric is then dyed in various colors. Sometimes, the silk is embroidered with patterns. Even today, clothes that are made out of silk are expensive. 하얀수의제일값비싼것은염색하지않은하얀 silk fabric 으로만든수의 (shroud;garments for the dead) 인데, 누에가고치(cocoon) 속에서잠을잔뒤누에나방(silkworm moth) 으로다시태어나듯환생하기를바라는인간의염원이담겨있다. The most expensive type of silk clothes are silk shrouds for the deceased. Shrouds are made out of silk and contain a wish to have the deceased begin

19 a new cycle of life like the way a silkworm emerges from a silk cocoon as a moth. 에필로그 바디꿰기 / 베짜기 / 뽕나무~ 하이라이트 / 비단으로된옛유물들 이영희한복패션쇼등비단패션쇼 한올한올섬세한손놀림과고도의기술로 짜여진한국의 silk fabric, 명주.. 명주의아름다움은찬란한자연의아름다움을 그대로살려내려는한국인의정성과지혜로 창조된것이다. 옛역사를후세에전해주는귀중한문화유산 (cultural heritage) 이자 세계패션계에신선한아름다움과우아함을 선사하는한국의 silk fabric, 명주.. Myeongju is made through complicated methods and woven delicately by skilled weavers. It was created through the wisdom of Koreans who brought out the unhindered beauty of nature within silk. As a fabric that brought beauty and elegance to the world of fashion, myeongju is a precious cultural heritage that has been handed down from one generation to the next over thousands of years

2 min 응용 말하기 01 I set my alarm for 7. 02 It goes off. 03 It doesn t go off. 04 I sleep in. 05 I make my bed. 06 I brush my teeth. 07 I take a shower.

2 min 응용 말하기 01 I set my alarm for 7. 02 It goes off. 03 It doesn t go off. 04 I sleep in. 05 I make my bed. 06 I brush my teeth. 07 I take a shower. 스피킹 매트릭스 특별 체험판 정답 및 스크립트 30초 영어 말하기 INPUT DAY 01 p.10~12 3 min 집중 훈련 01 I * wake up * at 7. 02 I * eat * an apple. 03 I * go * to school. 04 I * put on * my shoes. 05 I * wash * my hands. 06 I * leave