3D Pattern Development of Ergonomic Outdoor Pants Based on Skin Deformation in Trekking Postures Heeran Lee 1, Yejin Lee 2, Kyunghi Hong 2* 1 Division of Convergence Technology, Korea Research Institute of Standards and Science 2 Department of Clothing and Textiles, Chungnam ABSTRACT Objective: The purpose of this study is to suggest design lines and patterns of 3D outdoor pants which is comfortable during movements. Background: Outdoor brands often use streamlined design lines to design high performance outdoor wear. Because slim-fit has larger contact area with the skin, sewing seams along the design line can cause discomfort or even restrict body movement when walking, climbing, or sitting for hours. To reduce such discomfort, we need to find the appropriate location for cutting lines that do not interfere with body movement when using diagonal sewing line for the streamline design. Also, 3D pattern development of ergonomic outdoor pants was developed. Method: We observed three-dimensional U-shape of the crotch and developed the 2D pants pattern of the optimal crotch curve which is closer to V-shape compared to the conventional pattern. To design ergonomic outdoor pants, we selected the design line where the changes in skin length were the least while moving based on the skin deformation mapping. And the inseam of upper part was removed to adjust the fabric to the pendulum movement of the thigh. In addition, stress distribution along the front crotch curve was investigated to facilitate the hip joint movement while maintaining appearance. Results: 3D outdoor pants without inseam was rated more comfortable (p=0.024 * ) around the crotch compared to the 3D pattern with inseam. Appearance of the front of the pants was improved when 80 % of the stress was distributed near the point of error source. Conclusion: The sewing lines passing through the zone of least change is comfortable and 3D pants without inseam was rated more comfortable in trekking postures. Application: The skin deformation mapping for design lines and 3D arrangement methods can be applied to other functional clothing development. Keywords: 3D pattern development, Ergonomic outdoor pants, 3D arrangement methods, Skin deformation, Trekking Posture 1. Introduction 여가활용과건강에대한소비자의관심과수요가늘어나면서최근국내아웃도어시장은급격한성장세를이루고있다. 대다수의아웃도어브랜드는슬림한실루엣을원하는소비자의요구에맞춰스트레치소재와유선형의절개라인을접목하여스타일리쉬한제품들을매시즌개발하고있다 (Kim and Ha, 2012). 브랜드의급격한성장과함께이와관련된연구도활발하게이루어지고있는데 (Im et al., 2011; Jeong and Kim, 2009; Bae, 2011), 유선형의디자인절개라인의적합성을확 인하거나동작시가동범위를고려한패턴개발 (Ashdown & choi, 2010) 에관한연구는상대적으로많지않다. 특히팬츠의경우인체샅부위에대한정확한분석이패턴설계시필요하지만, 인체의샅부위는 3D 스캔이쉽지않기때문에이에대한정확한분석연구가거의없으며 3D 누드스캔정보를반영하여개발된아웃도어팬츠의패턴연구는부족하다고할수있다. 그러므로본연구에서는하체의다양한트랙킹동작시인체동작을거스르게하지않는기능적 3D 아웃도어팬츠의디자인라인과패턴을제안하고자하였다.
2. Method 동작에따른 30대초반남성하체의체표면변화맵핑결과 (Lee et al., 2013) 를활용하여인간공학적인아웃도어팬츠디자인라인을제안하고자하였다. 제안된디자인라인의적절성을확인하기위하여트랙킹동작시체표면길이변화를분석하였다. 선정된유선형의디자인라인이반영된아웃도어팬츠패턴을설계하기위하여 3차원데이터를 2차원으로전개및조합하였다. 조합시발생되는겹침과벌림현상을 3가지방법으로배분하여무릎위로인심이없는 3벌의팬츠패턴 (P 100-c, P 100-cfb, P 80-cf ) 을설계하였다. 3차원데이터를 2차원패턴으로전개및조합하기위하여 2C-AN Program(Kim et al., 2010; Jeong et al., 2006), Yuka CAD Program, Rapidform XOR Program을사용하였다. 인심 (inseam) 에부분적으로봉제선을없앤 3차원연구팬츠패턴 (3D-P) 3벌, 인심에봉제라인이있는 3 차원팬츠패턴 (3D-I), 기존 2차원팬츠패턴 (2D) 총 5벌의팬츠를제작하였다. 5명의피험자에게착용시킨후동작시의착용쾌적감에대한주관적인평가와 5명의전문가집단에의한외관평가를실시하였다. 피험자는제 6차한국인인체치수조사보고서 (Size Korea Home Page, 2012) 의 30대초반평균치수를기준으로선정하였으며, 피험자의배꼽수준허리높이부터샅부분까지높이, 배꼽수준허리둘레, 엉덩이둘레를중점적으로선정하였다. 팬츠에대한착용감평가는등산이나트랙킹을할때많이사용되는 7가지동작을각각 5회씩실시한후허리와샅부분, 허벅지부분에구속감이나불편함이있는지봉제선이느껴지는지를리커트 11점척도로평가하였다. 착용시의외관평가는의류분야의전문가 5명에게실시하였으며, 피험자들이착용한팬츠의정면, 측면, 후면을각각평가하였다. 이때평가하는부분을엉덩이둘레윗부분 () 과엉덩이둘레아래부분 (), 전체적인외관으로나누어리커트 11점척도로평가하였다. Figure 1에서보는바와같이동작시가로 세로의길이변화가없는영역을지나도록디자인라인을선정하였으며, 가로와세로방향으로모두늘어나는영역은피하여선정하였다. 허벅지안쪽부분에서는동작에따라변화하지않는영역을봉제라인으로선정하기가어려워인심 (inseam) 부분에봉제를없앤패턴을제안하였다. 동작에따른체표면변화를고려한인간공학적인팬츠디자인라인을 Figure 2에서보는바와같이제안하였으며, 디자인라인의적절성을확인하기위하여트랙킹동작 ( 한쪽다리를 90도올렸을때와쪼그리고앉은자세 ) 시디자인라인의길이변화를분석하였다 (Table 1). Figure 1. 3D design lines based on the mapping of skin deformation of knee flexion 3. Results 3.1 The verification of ergonomic design line for 3D outdoor pants 체표면변화맵핑결과 (Lee et al., 2013) 활용하여 Figure 2. Ergonomic design lines of pants 선정된디자인라인중인체에밀착되어동작시불편함을줄수있는라인 (Figure 2 1~3) 의길이변화분석한결과 Table 1에서보는바와같이길이변화가거의없거나줄어들어착용시불편함을주지않음을확인하였다.
Table 1. length deformation of design lines depending on location and the dynamic postures 없는 2 차원팬츠패턴으로비교팬츠를제작하였다. Design line Posture 1 2 3 Standing 38.8 cm 47.5 cm 31.0 cm 90 bending knee 33.1 cm 47.8 cm 30.7 cm ΔP1-14.5 % 0.7 % -1.3 % Squatting-down 36.0 cm 48.4 cm 28.2 cm ΔP2-7.1 % 1.8 % -9.2 % ΔP1(%): (90 bending knee - standing) / standing ⅹ100 ΔP2(%):(squatting-down - standing) / standing ⅹ100 3.2 Pattern development of 3D outdoor pants 30대체형에적합한 3차원기능성아웃도어팬츠패턴을개발하기위하여 Size Korea 30대표준체형의 3차원인체데이터를사용하여선정된디자인라인의형태로 3 차원인체데이터를 2차원패턴으로전개하였으며, 전개된 2차원팬츠패턴은 Figure 3과같다. Figure 4. Pants patterns depending on replica arrangement methods 3.3 Evaluation of developed outdoor pants pattern Figure 3. Design lines on 3D human body and their developed outdoor pants pattern for male 3차원데이터를 2차원패턴으로전개할때허벅지안쪽부분의인심을없애는과정에서앞샅부분에서겹침이발생하게된다. 겹쳐지는양을배분하는방법에따라 1) 겹쳐지는양을모두앞판과뒤판이연결되는샅부분에서주는방법 (P 100-c ), 2) 겹쳐지는양을모두앞, 뒤, 샅부분에골고루주는방법 (P 100-cfb ), 3) 겹쳐지는양의 80% 만을겹침이발생한앞부분과샅부분에나누어주는방법 (P 80-cf ) 으로세가지팬츠패턴을제안하였다 (Figure 4), 인심유무에따른 3차원패턴의착용감을평가하기위하여인심이있는 3차원팬츠패턴과여유분이 개발된아웃도어팬츠에대한평가는착의를통한운동기능성평가와전문가집단에의한외관평가로나누어진행하였다. 개발된아웃도어팬츠와비교팬츠총 5벌을피험자 5명에게착의시켰으며, 실험복을착용한상태에서다양한트랙킹동작 (7동작) 을실시한후부위별주관적평가를실시하였다. 동작시허리부분, 샅부분, 허벅지부분에서의불편함을살펴본결과 Table 2에서보는바와같이인심이있는팬츠 (3D-I 100 & 2D) 의경우샅뒷부분과허벅지뒷부분에서불편함이크게나타났다 (p=.024, p=.004). 또한전체적인착용쾌적감은개발된인심없는 3차원팬츠가우수함을알수있었다 (p=.000). 개발된팬츠의외관평가는전문가 5명에게실시하였으며, 정면 (front), 측면 (side), 후면 (back) 세방향에서평가하였다. 외관평가시피트존 (Fit-zone: 엉덩이둘레윗부분 ) 과액션존 (Action-zone: 엉덩이둘레아래부분 ) 두부분으로나누어평가하였다. 외관평가결과 Table 3에서보는바와같이모든부위에서유의한차이를보였다 (p=.001). 정면과후면의외관을살펴본결과 과 모두 P 80-cf 의복의외관이좋게나타났으며, 측면의외관을살펴본결과 P 100-c 의복의외관이나쁘게나타났다. 개발된팬츠패턴에대한주관적평가결과 P 80-cf 방법으로조합된인심없는 3차원팬츠패턴이동작과외관에서모두우수하게나타남을알수있었다.
Table 2. Average and standard deviation of subjective evaluation depending on experimental pants 3D (P 80-cf ) 3D (P 100-c ) 3D (P 100-cfb ) 3D(I 100 ) 2D F P Duncan Crotch (back) 0.6 a 0.8 a (±1.8) 0.6 a 3.8 a,b (±3.6) (±3.7) 3.597.024 * a>b Thigh (back) 1.8 a (±2.7) 1.0 a (±2.2) 2.0 a (±3.1) 4.2 b (±3.8) 5.8 b (±4.3) 5.497.004 ** a>b Comfortable 6.6 a (±0.5) 5.6 a (±1.1) 6.8 a 3.8 b (±0.8) 3.3 b 11.036.000 *** a>b Table 3. Subjective evaluation of appearance for five pants in three zones: front, side and back front P 80-cf P 100-c P 100-cfb I 100 (V 100 ) 2D-U F P Duncan 8.3 a 5.4 b (1.5) 5.8 b 8.384.000 *** a>b front 8.8 a (1.4) 6.3 b (1.8) 6.0 b 5.3 bc 4.4 c 18.301.000 *** a>b>c Side 6.1 a 3.3 b (1.5) 7.0 a 6.1 a 6.5 a 9.993.000 *** a>b Side c 3.6 d 7.1 a (1.8) 4.3 cd 6.5 ab 9.919.000 *** a>b>c>d Back 8.3 a 4.8 cd c 4.2 d (1.6) 6.7 b 14.569.000 *** a>b>c>d Back 7.3 a 4.7 b (2.8) 5.1 b 3.0 c 3.8 bc 10.239.000 *** a>b>c 의적용이가능하도록해야할것이다. 또한, 여성팬 4. Conclusion 츠에적용될경우남성팬츠에비해인체에더밀착되 는것을선호하므로신축성소재의도입과함께여유 분설정에관한연구가검토되어야할것이다. 본연구를통해소재의늘어나는특성을고려하여허벅지안쪽부분의봉제선 (inseam) 을없앰으로써좀더넓은면적의소재가변형에더욱자유롭게대응하도록함으로써동작이편한기능적인팬츠패턴을제안하였다. 또한관찰하기어려운남성샅부분에대한 3차원실측을통하여여유분이나겹침에의한스트레스의합리적인처리를단순한외곽라인이아닌내부에서그중해당되는국소부분에서부터해결하는조합방법을제안하고검증하였다. 그러나본연구에서는 30 대한명의피험자를대상으로가로와세로방향의길이변화를관찰한맵핑결과를사용하였는데, 더많은피험자를대상으로인체체표면을관찰하여일반화로 Acknowledgements This work was funded by Center Pole of Sejung Corporation. References Ashdown, S. P. and Choi, S. T., Application of Lower Body Girth
Change Analysis Using 3D Body Scanning to Pants Patterns, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 34(6), 955-968, 2010. Kim, S. Y., Jeong, Y. H., Lee, Y. J. and Hong, K. H., 3D pattern development of tight-fitting dress for an asymmetrical female manikin, Fibers and Polymers, 11(1), 142-146, 2010. Kim, I. and Ha, J. S., A Study on Design Characteristics in Outdoor Wear, Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 12(1), 93-109, 2012. Lee, H. R., Hong, K. H. and Lee, Y. J., Ergonomic mapping of skin deformation in dynamic postures to provide fundamental data for functional design lines of outdoor pants, Proceedings of the International Textiles Conference, p83, EXCO, Daegu, Korea, 2013. Jeong, Y. H., Hong, K. H. and Kim, S. J., 3D pattern construction and its application to tight-fitting garments for comfortable pressure sensation, Fibers and Polymers, 7(2), 195-202, 2006. Im, M. J., Seo, M. J., Park, J. Y. and Kim, Y. I., Development of the Design Prototype for Functional Men`s Outdoor-Wear Jacket, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 61(4), 152-168, 2011. Jeong, J. R. and Kim, H. E., Evaluation of the Wear Comfort of Outdoorwear by Skin Wettedness Analyses, Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 11(6), 947-952, 2009. Bae, J. M., A Study on Development of Out-door Wear Design to Respond to the Climate and Environment: Focus on the design in collections after the year 2000, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 61(7), 101-109, 2011. Size Korea Home Page, http://sizekorea.kats.go.kr (retrieved March 1, 2012). Maryland Position title: Professor, Department of Clothing & Textiles, Chungnam Areas of interest: Clothing Comfort and Ergonomics Author listings Heeran Lee: heeranlee@kriss.re.kr Highest degree: PhD, Department of Clothing & Textiles, Chungnam Position title: Senior Researcher, Division of Convergence Technology, Korea Research Institute of Standards and Science Areas of interest: 3D measurement, Clothing Ergonomics, 3D Pattern Making, Functional Clothing, Sportswear Yejin Lee: yejin@cnu.ac.kr Highest degree: PhD, Department of Clothing & Textiles, Chungnam Position title: Professor, Department of Clothing & Textiles, Chungnam Areas of interest: Technical Pattern Development, Apparel Technology Kyunghi Hong: khhong@cnu.ac.kr Highest degree: PhD, Department of Clothing & Textiles, University of