Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association 2012;50(5):39-49 http://dx.doi.org/10.6115/khea.2012.50.5.039 Characteristics of the Animal Motif Found in Modern Fashion Department of Fashion Design, Sunchon National University Associate Professor : Sun Young Kim Abstract This study looked into the trend of expression of animal motifs that appears in modern fashion, and the values embedded in them. As to the research method, empirical analysis was performed on the works presented at the four global collections of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2001S/S to 2010F/W, as well as a literature review. As a result, animal motifs applied in modern fashion appeared in material groups, such as leather or feather. The first group shows a realistic material feel, with artificial leather or fur, expressed in a transformed complex animal motif, with process skill or various methods of expression. The second group is the case of a single motif or reality, mode, and abstraction pattern. Printing is a generic expression, but patchwork, collage or bead ornament are also used, and expressed in the various forms of pattern: pattern in a single animal, pattern in different animals, and pattern combining both animal and other shape. The third group is a small decorative ornament, including headset or accessory and makeup, which is transformed in an animal-characterized motif into part of clothing components for expression, or to set the real animal to the stage for a performance. The embedded values were also categorized as natural beauty, sensual female beauty, pleasure, and ornamentation, which could be an endless spiritual source, and a breakthrough that enables us to show a creative and new aesthetic for the modern fashion field. (animal motif), (naturalness), (sensuality), (pleasure), (ornamentation) Corresponding Author : Sun Young Kim, Department of Fashion Design, Sunchon National University, 255 Jungangno, Sunchon, Chonnam, 540-742, Korea Tel: +82-61-750-3685 Fax: +82-61-750-3680 E-mail: ksy6341@sunchon.ac.kr * 2012 65. - 39 -
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Table 1. Used as material 1-1. Ungaro, 2002F/W 1-2. Valentino, 2007F/W 1-3. Dominique Sirop, 2005F/W 1-4. Valentino, 2010S/S 1-5. Alexander McQueen, 2008S/S 1-6. Yves Saint Laurent, 2007F/W 1-7. Chanel, 2010F/W 1-8. Under Cover, 2007F/W (all at www.style.com) - 42 -
Table 2. Utilization of reality patterns 2-1. Ann Demeulemeester, 2010S/S 2-2. Salvatore Ferragamo, 2009S/S 2-3. Pierrot, 2003S/S 2-4. Dolce & Gabbana, 2005S/S 2-5. Jean Paul Gaultier, 2007S/S 2-6. Moschino, 2010S/S (all at www.style.com) - 43 -
Table 3. Utilization of mode patterns 3-1. Blumarine, 2009F/W 3-2. Christian Dior, 2008S/S 3-3. Vivienne Westwood, 2001F/W 3-4. Just Cavalli, 2008F/W 3-5. Prada, 2005S/S 3-6. Alexander McQueen, 2008F/W (all at www.style.com) - 44 -
Table 4. Utilization of abstraction patterns 4-1. Basso & Brooke, 2010F/W 4-2.Proenza Schouler, 2010S/S 4-3.Versace, 2001F/W (all at www.style.com) Table 5. Used as fashion ornament and others 5-1. Jean Paul Gaultier, 2010F/W 5-2. Gareth Pugh, 2010S/S 5-3. Victor & Rolf, 2004F/W 5-4. Franck Sorbier, 2005F/W 5-5. Seredin & Vasiliev, 2002S/S 5-6. Marjan Pejoski, 2001S/S 5-7. Castelbajac, 2007F/W (all at www.style.com) - 45 -
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Table 6. Characteristics of the animal motif found in modern fashion Category Trend of expression of animal motif Embedded value Material Direct use of leather, fur, and feather of real animal Expressed in realistic material feel with artificial leather or fur Expressed in transformed complex animal motif with process skill or various expression methods Stressed with an animal motif combined with different animal materials in one item of clothes, or expressed for sensual beauty combined with visible material or Naturalness Sensuality Ornamentation glossary material Pattern Expressed in diverse patterns, such as reality, mode and abstraction Printing is a generic expression, but patchwork, collage or bead ornament are also used. Expressed in the various forms for pattern: pattern in single animal, pattern in different animals, and pattern combined in both animal and other shape Naturalness Sensuality Pleasure Ornamentation Fashion ornament and others Applied the animal motif to accessory, handbag, shoe, hair ornament and makeup, in addition to clothing Transformed the animal-characterized motif into part of clothing components for expression Set the real animal to the stage for performance Naturalness Pleasure Ornamentation - 47 -
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