The Research Journal of the Costume Culture pissn: 1226-0401 eissn: 1266-0401 Vol. 21, No. 3 pp.394~400, June 2013 http://dx.doi.org/10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.3.394 Design development through natural dyeing Young-Seon Park Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Seowon University, Korea 천연염색을이용한제품디자인개발 박영선 서원대학교조형 환경학부의류학과 Abstract At a time when the demand for environmentally friendly products is soaring, the fashion industry is following suit. The industry is showing particular interest in natural-dyed products. Against this backdrop, this study conducted a literature review on the history of natural dyeing for textiles and on the types of natural dyes. In addition, this study identified recent trends in the fashion industry and applied the findings from the literature review to those trends. Through this process, possibilities for new designs were suggested. This study proposed designs for various items t shirts, one-piece dresses, blouses, skirts, and knitwear by using threads and textiles dyed from mugwort, Polygonum indigo, safflowers, Lithospermum erythrorhizon, and Sophora japonica flowers. This study is also meaningful in that it broadens the boundaries of design for natural-dyed fashion products. To that end, various designs were attempted by combining natural-dyed textiles or knits with leather, denim, and fur. Keywords: environmentally friendly products( 친환경제품 ) natural dyeing( 천연염색 ) I. Introduction 과학기술발달과산업화와함께고도화된오염원의증가로생태계의파괴, 환경호르몬배출등여러가지환경문제가대두되고있다. 이러한현상은지구환경문제뿐아니라개인의삶에도영향을끼쳐웰빙, 로하스등의트랜드가확산되고있으며, 친환경상품의수요가급증하고있다. 패션업계에도이러한시대적인분위기에편승하여자연친화적인제품을출시하고있다. 천연염색은그자체에 서항균성, 소취성, 항알러지성, 항암성등의기능성을겸비하고있으며 (Kim & Lee, 2003), 감성적특성도지니고있어새로운시장의기회를맞고있다. 패션업계의동향을살펴보면제일모직남성복 로가디스그린 에대나무, 숯섬유등자연친화적인소재를이용하였고, 다양한컬러의천연염색제품을출시하였으며 (Apparelnews, 2004), 아동내의 무냐무냐 (Mooyna Mooyna) 는천연염색을이용한제품을꾸준히선보이고있다. 최근생활한복브랜드와디자이너, 천연염색협회에서온라인, 오프라인, 패션쇼를통해제품개발을시도하고있 Received 19 March 2013, revised 27 May 2013, accepted 17 June 2013. Corresponding author (space1010@seowon.ac.kr) This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/3.0) which permits unrestricted non-commercial use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. 394
Vol. 21, No. 3 박영선 87 다. 그러나소비자의선호도가높아지고패션업계도발빠르게움직이고있는가운데천연염색제의개발및염색효과에대한선행연구는많이이루어지고있는반면에, 소비자의욕구를반영한디자인개발은이루어지고있지않다. 또한전통한복의개량으로인한진부함, 소품위주의아이템으로소비자들에게다소외면을받고있다. 홍나영 (2003) 연구에따르면천연염색의복의단점은다양하지않은디자인, 코디네이션의어려움이라하였다. 이것은저고리, 치마, 두루마기와같은전통복식의실루엣에기초를둔디자인을하여기성복과믹스매치 (Mix- match) 하는데불편함이있기때문으로사료된다. 이러한단점을해결하기위하여셔츠, 원피스, 블라우스, 스커트, 니트등다양한아이템을디자인하였다. 또한실을염색하여손뜨개를하여가죽, 진, fur 등과크로스코디네이션이가능한제품을개발하였다. 본연구는이론적배경으로단행본, 학위논문, 연속간행물, 인터넷을통한문헌연구와사진자료, 패션잡지를통한실증적자료를수집하였다. 이러한조사, 분석을바탕으로제품을디자인, 제작하고자한다. II. Background 1. Definition of natural dyeing 천연염색이란천연자원인식물 동물 광물에서얻은자연의색상을다양한기법을통하여옷감또는의복등에표현하는것이다. 인류가천연염료를사용한대표적인예로 1만 5천년전에스페인북부의알타미라벽화와프랑스남부라스코벽화를들수있다. 이들에사용된색소의대부분은광물색소였고, 퇴적물중철, 유색토, 공작석, 청금석등이원료로사용되었다. 또한고대이집트도시테베에서발굴된유적으로기원전 2,500년경의쪽염의복과투탕카멘무덤에서기원전 1,352년경발굴된염색한띠가있다 (Song, 2004). 우리나라의염색에관한기록은 산가요록, 규합총서, 임원경제지 에서살펴볼수있는데, 식물성염료는중요한염료로사용되었고, 여러매염제와염색법에따라다양한색채를낼수있다. 식물 의잎과꽃, 열매, 수피 ( ), 심재와뿌리등에서얻어지며, 단색성염료와다색성염료로분류되어진다. 다색성염료는식물염료의대부분에속하는것으로매염제에의해여러가지색으로발색되는매염염료이다 (Kang, 2001). 2. Kinds and colors of natural dyeing 천연염재는식물의뿌리, 줄기, 잎, 꽃등의식물성염재와코치닐 (Cochineal, 연지충 ), 케르메스 (Kermes), 티리안퍼플 (Tyrian purple) 등과같이동물의몸이나그분비물로부터색소를얻을수있는동물성염료와다양한색채를갖는흙과돌속에함유된금속산화물즉, 무기안료에의한착색을이용할수있는광물성염료이다. 이중식물성염료는천연염료의대부분을차지하고있어천연염색의대명사로쓰여지기도한다 (Table 1). 이러한천연염색은 1956년영국의퍼킨 (W. H. Pwrkin) 이합성염료를발명하기이전까지는세계적으로어느민족이든자연으로부터색채를얻은유일한방법으로이용되었다 (Soh, 1999). 3. Natural dyed products in the fashion industry 국내패션업계의친환경패션상품의생산은유 아동복과이너웨어브랜드에서주도하고있다. 유 아동복은베이비오가닉 (Baby Organic), 아가방 (Agabang), 쇼콜라 (Chocolat), 오가닉맘 (Organic Mom) 등이오가닉, 텐셀소재를활용하거나허브비타민, 해조류등을접목한친환경유 아동복을출시하였고, 이너웨어로는보디가드, 비비안, 비너스등의브랜드가오가닉코튼과참숯, 키토산, 알로에, 황토, 콩등의가공속옷을선보였다. 성인복에서는이새 (Isae) 와돌실나이, 반딧불이등이천연소재, 천연염색을제품에반영하여친환경이미지를높이고있다 (Lee & Chung, 2010). 반딧불이와돌실나이는생활한복브랜드로서전통문화와전통색채를강조하는디자인을볼수있으며, 천연염색을이용하여친환경이미지를나타내고있다. 또한 H라인, O라인등의편안한실루엣으로전통한복의형태를표현하는디자인이대부분이다. 주로감, 쪽, 염색이많았다. 돌실나이의자켓은면에백련초염색후감물로염색하였으며, 소매에 395
88 천연염색을이용한제품디자인개발복식문화연구 <Table 1> Types and characteristics of natural dyes Dye classification Main ingredient Mordant Color Monochromatic dye Multicolor dyes Pigm-ent Vat dye Direct dye Indole derivative Carotinoides Diketone Yo ram, india ram, songram, woad, litlepine Gardenia, hongmok, saffron Purple series Yellow color series Basis dye Isoquinolin derivative Hwangyak, chrome, melverin Yellow color series Raw dyebased flame Mordant dye Inorgarnic pigment Organic pigment Anthocyanes Chlorophyl Calkone derivative Flavonoids Tannin, pyrogallol taninn Rockweed, balsam, alpine tree Safflower Eulalia, thatch, sophora, old fustic, willow, bushes Gallnut, the oaks, chestnut, sumac myrobalan Led color series Yellow color(ai) Brown(AI), black(fe) Ellagic acid Pomegranate Brown(AI), black(fe) Chloragenic acid Coffee Dark brown(ai) Tannin, catechol tannin Ggambier, persimmon hongro, walnut, cutch Brown(AI), black(fe) Naphthoquinine derivative Gromwell Purple series(ai) Dihydropyran derivative Anthraquinone derivative Brazilwood, logwood, sobang Cochineal, kermes, lacdye Redpurple series(ai), purple series(fe), black series(fe) Dark brown(ai), black(fe) Other ingredients Camellia, pine, worm wood, mugwort Light brown(ca), yellow Inorgarnic substance Organic substance Aleuron, red clay, yellowclay, laterite, blackclay, verdigris Cochinel lake, logwoodlake, alizalin lake, indian yellow Source: Soh Hwng Oak (1999). A study on the traditional natural dyeing our country. Comparing folklore. week. 16. p. 363. 무를대어편안함을주었고, 앞깃에전통무늬천을덧대어천연염색의단아한미를표현하였다 (Fig. 1). 한국천연염색협회는천연염색산업을육성하기위하여학술연구, 세미나, 워크샵을정기적으로개최하고있으며, 공예관을운영, 상설판매하며, 온라인쇼핑몰을운영하고있다. 제품은스카프, 손수건, 지갑등악세서리가많았으며, 속옷, 셔츠, 자켓을판매하고있다 (Fig. 2). 이새 (Isae) 는면, 린넨, 실크, 울등천연소재를사용하고, 쪽, 괴화, 감물, 황토등으로염색해웰빙을추구하며, 중 장년층을타겟으로하는디자인을전 개하고있다 (Fashionbiz, 2009). <Fig. 3> 은감과쪽을이용하여염색한코트로옆선에무를대어두루마기의전통미를표현하였다 (Maison, 2011). 반딧불이의바지는면에황토염색하였으며, 끝단에패치워크를하여조각보이미지를나타내었다 (Fig. 4). 각브랜드의디자인특징을살펴보면 <Table 2> 와같다. 이상살펴본바와같이대부분전통미를추구하는디자인으로현대패션기성복과코디네이션이어 396
Vol. 21, No. 3 박영선 89 <Table 2> Design features of the natural dye products Brand Design specificity Color Silhouette & item Isae Bandibuli Dolsilnai Yellow, blue, brown, kaki A line, H line, one-piece, jacket, shirts, pants Yellow, blue, brown, red, black A line, H line, vest, jacket, skirt, pants, scarfs, bag cushion, hand-made small piece Brown, kaki H line, A line, O line, skirt, pants, one-piece, jaket, coat KNDA ( 한국천연염색협회 ) Brown, blue H-line, A line, shirts, one-piece, jacket, under wear, shawl, scarfs, purse, hankerchief Material Cotton, linen, silk, wool Cotton, silk, wool gauze Cotton, silk, wool Rayon, cotton, wool Dye matter Indigo, persimmon, yellowclay Persimmon, yellowclay, caesalpinia sappan, indian ink, indigo Baeknyeoncho, persimmon Persimmon, indigo, green tea <Fig. 1> www.mall-dolsilnai. co.kr(2013) <Fig. 2> www.ggonmul. co.kr/shop/list.php.(2013) <Fig. 3> Maison. 2011. 9 <Fig. 4> www.bandibuli. com/fronthp/product(2013) 려움이있었다. 또한면과실크가대부분이었다. 본연구는이러한한계를극복하기위하여현대패션실루엣을기초로하여디자인하였으며, 니트로도제작하였다. 총 10점의디자인을하였으며, 니트디자인은다른소재의아이템과사진촬영하여코디네이션을제시하였다. III. Products Manufactured 제품제작은셔츠, 블라우스, 스웨터, 스커트, 팬츠, 원피스, 코트, 스카프, 가방등다양한아이템을디자인했으며, 기성복과크로스- 코디네이션 (Cross- coordination) 을할수있도록모던하게디자인하였다. 가죽, 니트, fur 모피, 진등다양한소재와믹스매치할수있도록기획하였으며, 소재는면, 실크, 울등을사용하여천연염색의고유한색감을살렸다. 각디자인의특징을살펴보면본연구에서제작한천연염색을이용한제품의특징과사용한천연염재는 <Table 3> 과같다. 셔츠 : 쑥으로염색하였고, 모던하고심플하게디자인하여바지, 스커트와모두코디네이션이가능하도록하였다. 블라우스 : 자초로염색으로하였고, 셔링을이용하여우아한여성미를살렸다. 397
90 천연염색을이용한제품디자인개발복식문화연구 스웨터 1: 쪽으로염색한실로손뜨개하고, 가죽으로단처리하여모던하게표현하였으며, 길이를짧게디자인하여안에다른소재의옷과믹스매치가가능하도록하였다. 스웨터 2: 쪽과홍화로염색한실로성글게손뜨개하여안에다양한소재와아이템을착용하여개성있는이미지연출이가능하도록하였다. 하의에진과의코디네이션을하여캐주얼함을표현하였다. 스커트 : 쪽으로염색한직물을누빔을하여천연염색고유의단아한미를주었다. 바지 : 홍화로염색한실로손뜨개하여모던한헤링본체크를표현하였다. 상의에 fur를코디네이션하였다. 원피스 : 홍화, 니트원피스로프린트된실크를부분적으로패치워크하여포인트를주었다. 코트 : 쑥과쪽으로혼합염색한카키색을직물을제작하였다. 표현하였고실루엣은모던하지만, 안단과소매끝에셔링장식을주어조형미를주었다. 스카프 : 괴화로염색한자카드직물을염색하여사용하였으며, 문양이입체적으로나타나도록하였다. 가방 : 여러가지색으로천연염색한소재를패치워크하여표현하였다. 기존의조각보의이미지를탈피하기위하여볼륨감을주어조형적인아름다움을추구하였다. 다양한색의옷과어울리도록디자인하였다. <Table 3> Product design Item Photo Color Dye Material Design characteristics Shirts Brown Wormwood Silk Possible to cotton ate with both pants and skirts by designing a modern a simple look Blouse Violet Gromwell Silk Emphasized the graceful feminine beauty by using shirring. knit skirt mix-match. Blue Indigo Wool Knitted and modern leather processing was expressed, was to mix and match clothes and other material in the design and shorten the length. Sweater Blue, pink Indigo safflower Wool It was not dense, visible underwear knitting to the ease of coordination with other materials. 398
Vol. 21, No. 3 박영선 91 <Table 3> Continued Item Photo Color Dye Material Design characteristics Skirt Blue Indigo Silk Emphasized an indigenous traditional feel of natural dyeing through quilt. Pants Orange Sophora safflower Wool Eexpressed orange color through a combination of safflower and sophora. expressed modern herringbone check style through hand knitting. Fur top mix-match. One-piece dress Pink Safflower Wool Emphasized by patchwork of portions of silk printed with one piece made with knit Coat Kaki Indigo wormwood Wool Expressed kaki color through a combination of indigo and wormwood, and gave a form of sculpture by shirring decorations in linings and end of the sleeves while maintaining a modern silhouette. Scarf Yellow Sophora Silk Expressed three dimensional patterns by dying sophora and jacquard. Bag Yellow, blue, pink, kaki, brown Sophora, indigo wormwood safflower Silk, wool, cotton Expressed through patchworking various material in various color of natural dye. Designed to fit with various color of clothing IV. Conclusions and Recommendations 셔츠, 블라우스, 원피스, 코트등다양한아이템 을개발하여기존의생활한복디자인의진부함을 해결하고자하였으며, 푸른색계열은의류구매시 소비자가가장선호하는색 (Cho, 2007) 으로쪽염 399
92 천연염색을이용한제품디자인개발복식문화연구 색을단독, 혼합염색에이용하였다. 실을염색한후손뜨개하여니트제품개발을시도하였으며, 염색정도에따라그라데이션효과도낼수있었다. 니트는가죽, 진, fur 등다양한현대패션과개성있는믹스매치를할수있으며, 천연염색고유의자연스러움과수공예기법을표현할수있는소재임을알수있었다. 나아가컴퓨터를활용한기계니트작업을한다면다양한디자인을제시할수있으며, 대량생산을할수있어천연염색제품대중화에기여할수있을것이다. 천연염색제품은핸드메이드기법으로디자이너의의도에따라풍부한색감과개성있는스타일을표현할수있었다. 따라서기존의생활한복이미지를탈피하고, 기성복과크로스코디네이션이가능하도록다양하고, 독창적인스타일을제품화한다면천연염색업계는더욱더발전할것이다. References Cho, Y. A.(2007). A study on the purchasing conditions natural dyed clothing product. Journal of the Korean Society Fashion Business. 11(4), 12. Gang, I. S.(2001). Dyeing of understanding. a Gyomunsa. p.166. Hong, N. Y., Yu, H. K., Lee, J. H., Seok, H. J., Shin, H. S., & Kim, C. J.(2003). Characteristics of consumers and their perception of natural-dyed clothes. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 11(3), 79. Lee, M. S., & Chung, K. H.(2010). Analysis of the conditions and products of natural dyeing internet shopping malls. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing Textiles, 34(7), 1207. Lee, Y. H.(2008). Hanbok liar went to Paris. Design house. p. 234. Masion. 2011. 9. Soh, H. O.(1999). A study on the traditional natural dyeing our country. Comparing folklore. Week (16), 361-363. Song, H. S., & Kim, B. H.(2004). The beautiful colors of our natural dyeing. Sookmyung Women s University Press, p.10. www.apparelnews.co.kr. www.bandibuli.com/fronthp/product. www.fashionbiz.co.kr. www.ggonmul.co.kr/shop/list.php. www.mall-dolsilnai.co.kr 400