Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association 2012;50(3):15-24 http://dx.doi.org/10.6115/khea.2012.50.3.015 Suggested Design for Textiles and Fashion Cultural Products Applied with Formative Beauty in Daenggi Department of Fashion Design, Sunchon National University Associate Professor : Sun Young Kim Abstract This study examined the formative beauty found in, which is a traditional feminine hair ornament. For research methods, both Adobe s Illustrator CS3 and Photoshop CS3 were used as designing tools and literatures on. Sixteen pieces of work were prepared by applying rotations of up, down, right, and left, repeat, symmetry, and overlap from the basic motif. For the scarf design, the rotational or diagonally symmetrical arrangement was repeated in order to maximize the outstanding features for each textile expression or was designed freely using one repetition unit (a whole scarf). Diverse images were expressed for the pendant design via usage of a basic motif and its variation. In addition, this work would suggest another alternative for apparel application by using the textile design for a simple one-piece dress. (Daenggi), (textile design), (fashion cultural products) Corresponding Author : Sun Young Kim, Department of Fashion Design, Sunchon National University, 255 Jungangno, Sunchon, Chonnam, 540-742, Korea Tel: +82-61-750-3685 Fax: +82-61-750-3680 E-mail: ksy6341@sunchon.ac.kr - 15 -

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Table 1. Sorts and characteristics of Daenggi Division Sorts and characteristics of Daenggi Court Ddeoguj Maegae Doturak Drim -Violet colored daengi decorated for keunmeori, a big wig hair for ladies bi and bin in the ceremonial palace events. -An inner with narrow width decorated for keunmeori or eoyeomeori for queen consort, court ladies, or women of a noble family, which is commonly black or violet. -Called also keun (big), dwit (back), or juryeom. put on at the back side in case of ceremonial decoration, which is larger than common ones in width and a little shorter than skirt in length and featured with a 2-way fork. Two lengthwise lines folded exactly and triangular shape in upper side. Not used in the court/palace but applied to the women of a noble family as gorgeous attachment, featuring the family fortune. -Ap (front) paired with dwit or doturak (back) designed in nuptial costume. Also referred to as apjul (front-lined ) or bal. This is rolled up around the two end sides of keun binyeo, a large ornamental hairpin, and then properly adjusted and hung down along the both shoulders. Ceremonial use Generic use Goi -A Mongolian style commonly found in northern region of Gaeseong City including Pyeongan-do province, northen province of Hwanghae-do and Hamgyeonbuk-do in Korea when the wedding ceremony, 60th birthday anniversary, or parental feast celebrating occasions. Jinju Jebiburi Jjok -A variation of jebiburi in ebony colored satin, which is very unique in shape and decorated with pearls on top. -Applied to hair braided behind the ears for the court princess, concubine princess, or women of nobility, which is folded in a swallow bill shape. Red and black are used for virgins and bachelors, respectively. -Used for the chignon style. Red color is used for the youth while violet color is taken for the elderly. Black for the widow, white for the chief mourner in funeral service, and violet for the married couple still live at/over 80~90. Use for children Doturak Malttuk -Used when young with a short hair. Same to the case of ceremonial usage. As the hair behind the ears is comparatively short, a small add-on is attached on to the and then this is put very closely under the hair. -Used for the group aged before jebiburi application and after doturak application, whose ending tip has a square shape. - 17 -

Ceremonial use Use for children Use for a woman attendant in court Others Baessi 2-strip, 4-strip, and Patnip Ayam -Decorated for jongjong-meori for the girl at age 3 or 4. Centered on the hair parting line with two threads on both side and braided together with the short hair. -Daenggi applied to the saeang-meori for a young female attendant in palace, whose tip is not swallow bill but straight line and has a patterned shape of short stick in violet silk. A 4-strip is put on for jimil court lady, while a 2-strip is appled for cheoso court lady. -Patnip is named after the feature for pat nip, meaning redbean leaf, to roll up from outward softly, which is tied to the hair among the low job title court ladies like musuri or sesugan. -A decorative add-on at the back of sseugae (a covering sheet of cloth) similar to keun for ceremony in shape, but small in width and often buttoned type on upper side detachable from ayam. -Used for cold protection and ornamental purpose for children. Jobawi & Often decorated elaborately with carved flowers, auspicious Gulae letters/characters, and 5-color threads. - 18 -

Table 2. Textile design utilized with jebiburi basic motif textile design 1 textile design 2 doturak basic motif textile design 1 textile design 2 1-1 2-1 1 2 1-2 2-2 color 325-5U, 325-2U, 325-8U, 103-1U, 121-9U color 199-1U, 214-8U, 189-2U, 18-1U drim baessi basic motif textile design 1 textile design 2 basic motif textile design 1 textile design 2 3-1 4-1 3 4 3-2 4-2 color 188-4U, 49-4U, 49-1U color 97-8U, 96-1U, 305-1U, 308-1U, 60-2U - 19 -

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Table 3. Fashion cultural products applied with formative beauty in jebiburi scarf design one piece design pendant design 1-1 design 1 design 2 design 7 1-2 design 3 design 4 design 5 design 6 design 8 Table 4. Fashion cultural products applied with formative beauty in doturak scarf design one piece design pendant design 2-1 design 9 design 10 design 15 2-2 design 11 design 12 design 13 design 14 design 16-21 -

Table 5. Fashion cultural products applied with formative beauty in drim scarf design one piece design pendant design 3-1 design 17 design 18 design 23 3-2 design 19 design 20 design 21 design 22 design 24 Table 6. Fashion cultural products applied with formative beauty in baessi scarf design one piece design pendant design 3-1 design 25 design 26 design 31 3-2 design 27 design 28 design 29 design 30 design 32-22 -

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Daenggi 1. (2011, December 15). National place museum of korea. http://www.gogung.go.kr/. Daenggi 2. (2011, December 15). Daum encyclopedia. http://enc.daum.net/dic100/contents.do?query 1= b04d3525a. Heo, D-H. (1998). Our gyubang culture. Seoul: Hyeonamsa. Hwang, O-H. (1979). A study on Daenggi of late Chosun period. Unpublished master s thesis, Hongik University, Seoul, Korea. Jang, S-H. (2002). Traditional ornaments. Seoul: Daewonsa. Kim, H-J. (1986). The plasticity of Daenggi: focused on my own work. Unpublished master s thesis, Sungshin Women s University, Seoul, Korea. Lee, J-M. (1982). A study of the pattern shown in Daenggi & breast-tie during the Chosun period. Unpublished master s thesis, Keimyung University, Daegu, Korea. Lee, K-J. (1983). History of korean costume. Seoul: Iljisa. Lee, S-H. (2001). Study on the korean hair ribbon Daenggi. Unpublished master s thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea. Lee, S-J., & Lee, J-J. (2003). History of hair style. Seoul: Shinkwang. Rhee, S-C., & Kim, J-H. (2010). A Study on the development of the scarf design utilizing traditional patchwork in korea. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 16(1), 230-241. Yang, H-J. (2008). Study on evening dresses for which formative beauty of korean pigtail ribbon is applied: focused on laser cutting technique. Unpublished master s thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea. Yu, H-K. (1996). Hanbok Cultural History. Seoul: Gyomunsa. Yu, K-W., & Lim, S-Y. (2006). A study on fashion design by korean traditional accessory Daenggi. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 9(1), 11-26. - 24 -