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1 99 Ï Ð Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 36, No. 1 (2012) p.99~111 y w w ½ w w Korean Dress Collection of the Horniman Museum in London Soon-Young Kim Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Seoul National University ( ), y ( ) Abstract This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki). Key words: Korean dress collection, The Horniman Museum, Modern petticoat, Rattan under-vest; w t, y, x e, I z y w y w š ã w š. x ¾ š, v,,, w y w. ù ƒ 2010 yw Corresponding author soonyoung1.kim@gmail.com w y ƒ (National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage, 2010), v» (The National Research Institute of Cultural Properties, 1999), v v, j, h š (National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage, 2006, 2007, 2008) y y ƒ sw ƒ ù ü w r. w w ƒ ww» w (Kwon & Hong, 2008, 2009; Yun & Son, 1994; Yun & Lim,
2 100 w wz 7PM/P 1998). ù w š q w w w w y w w. y 20» w w ü y w y š w. ù ƒ y w xk, p r š w q w š w. y w ³ w ƒ w x ³ w y»ƒ» w. xš ww , w j l Dr. Fiona Kerlogue ù w l wš w q w ~17 ww 2 ƒ w ƒ j»(ƒ ) d w ~19 ww 3 ƒ w Ì p w. x p ww» w w w wì xš w. II. w y m Frederik John Horniman l t œ t w» w t Forest Hill k œ w» w. t k w 1898 Horniman Charles Harrison Townsend w š wì ƒ xûw.» t t, y œ t». z 100 ù t ù x y t» 10% w. Emslie» w 1911 ƒ ƒ x š y œ œ w x (Horniman Museum, 2011). y 35 w,,» wš. 9 w ƒ 8 ù 1 ƒ šš. t 25,» 7. ƒ p» ƒ. Greenwich w l(scc: The Horniman Museum Study Collections Centre). w SCC SCC. y w 18 (Table 1). ƒ û t w w» 1, ö 1, š 1, 1, 1, x 1, 1, 1, m 1, 1, k t š 1, e 1, e 1, 1, œ 1 5»k m 1 1g ƒ. y w ƒ k, m w ù 14 û w 1953 Bowra w»». Bowra ƒ w w» û. ù Kerlogue w Bowra Bowra ƒ w w ƒ š w. 2 y» ƒ š œ œ š 1953»» w w k w š w. w w» y w 1953 y š w. k» ƒ y e ù Bowra w» û 100
3 y w w 101 Table 1. Korean dress items held in the Horniman Museum M/F Item Museum number Donator Year of donation Outer robe (durumagi) / 1.5 Waistcoat (jokki) / 1.1 Man's jacket (jeogori) / 1.7 Men's dress Women's dress Unidentified Trousers (baji) / 1.6 Ankle band (daenim) / Waist band (dae) / 1.? Purse (jumeoni) / 1.? Under vest of wisteria (deungbaeja) / 15 Wristlets of wisteria (deungtosi) / Top hat (gat) NN184.1 Skullcap (tanggeon) NN184.2 Woman's jacket (jeogori) / 3.7 Skirt (chima) / 3. 6 Petticoat (sokchima) / 3.1 Under trousers (sokbaji) / 3.5 Under trousers (soksokgot) / 3.4 Wristlets (tosi) / Socks (beoseon) /? Mrs. Bowra 1953 Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore 1948 Mrs. Bowra (presumed) 1953 Mrs. Bowra 1953 Mrs. Bowra Bowra w w ƒ w» ƒ w ƒ ƒ û z mw ƒ j. y m 1948 C. de J. Luxmore w»». Luxmore w» û ƒ. 1. III. û w x p y û», ö, š,, x, m ƒ. 1)»» s» (Fig. 1). ¼ 132cm, y 83.3cm, t 64.4cm j» 0.2~0.3cm y (Table 2).» ½ xk ½ ½ 8.5~8.2cm ½ ƒ. ½¼ 33cm, š 19cm, ½ ¼ 43cm. 3.7cm ½ 6cm e. š 7cm ¼ š ¼ ƒ 117cm, š 99cm. š 6cm 64cm ¼ š ½ ó 49cm š. 13cm ü e 16.5cm p (Fig. 1(c)).» ù š ƒ x k. ó x w û. v «ƒ ù z d w. x. Áò w r ù Á w. 101
4 한국의류학회지 102 Vol. 36 No. 1, 2012 Fig. 1. Man's outer robe (durumagi) held in the Horniman Museum. Photographed by the author (2009, March 17). 2) 조끼 3) 조끼는 연보라색 숙고사 겉감과 소색의 광목 안감으 로 만들어진 겹조끼이다(Fig. 2). 뒷길이 60.5cm, 뒤품 61cm 크기이며, 단추구멍을 제외하고는 전부 재봉틀 로 견고하게 박음질 되어 있다(Table 2). 뒷길이가 앞길 이보다 4cm 길며 양 옆선에 트임이 있는데 뒷도련을 기준으로 9cm 올라간 위치까지 트임이 있다. 뒷길은 등솔 없이 한 장으로 마름질 되었다. 앞길에는 가로 12cm 크기의 작은 주머니 1개, 가로 19.5cm 크기의 큰 주머니 2개가 달려 있으며 5개의 밤색 플라스틱 단추 로 여며져 있다(Fig. 2(b)). 숙고사의 문양은 원형의 전 서체 수(壽)자와 넝쿨에 매달린 호리병박이 촘촘히 배 열된 형태이다(Fig. 2(c)). 남자 저고리 남자 저고리는 옥색의 유문사 겉감과 소색의 광목 안감으로 만들어진 겹저고리이다(Fig. 3). 뒷길이 58.7cm, 화장 78cm, 뒤품 58.4cm 크기이며 0.2~0.3cm 간격의 홈질로 손바느질 되어 있다(Table 2). 앞처짐 분량으로 인해 앞길은 뒷길보다 1.5cm 정도 더 길다. 깃의 형태 는 동그래 깃이며 깃너비는 7~6.5cm로 안깃너비가 조 금좁다. 겉깃길이 28.7cm, 고대 18.5cm, 안깃길이 34cm 이다. 두루마기 겉감과 같은 흰색 명주로 2.7cm 너비 의 동정이 겉깃 시작 부위에서 10.4cm 올라간 위치에 달려 있다. 안고름은 없으며, 겉고름은 5.3~5.8cm 너비 인데 긴 고름의 길이가 83.3cm, 짧은 고름의 길이가 68cm이다. Table 2. Measurements of man s outer robe (durumagi), waistcoat (jokki), and a man's jacket (jeogori) held in the Horniman Museum Item Construction Material Sewn by Outer robe (durumagi) Waistcoat (jokki) Man's jacket (jeogori) Lined Lined Lined Silk Silk, cotton Silk, cotton Hand Machine Hand Length of back bodice Width of back bodice 32.2*2 30.5*2 29.2*2 Fig. 2. Man's waistcoat (jokki) held in the Horniman Museum. 102 Length of sleeve Width of sleeve
5 y w w 103 Fig. 3. Man's jacket (jeogori) held in the Horniman Museum. Table 3. Measurements of man s trousers (baji) and a pair of ankle bands (daenim) held in the Horniman Museum Item Construction Material Sewn by Length Width Waist (W/L) Trousers (baji) Lined Silk, cotton Hand / Ankle band (daenim) Lined Silk Hand Waist band (dae) Lined Cotton Hand Purse (jumeoni) Lined Silk, cotton Machine w š, ú w Ê., Á. ¼ ù»ƒ ew. p w ½ š ¼ ½ wš. š y e Õ w (Fig. 3(b)). s k 10cm j» x, 2 Õ. ( ) ƒ š 5 ƒ x xk (Fig. 3(c)). 4) y š s Ÿ (Fig. 4). x s xkƒ w. x sww ¼ ƒ 125cm, x 16cm, x 122.6cm j» 0.2~0.3cm y (Table 3). <Fig. 4> d ¼ 88cm, 4cm j». 0.5cm 0.2~0.3cm y. 5) x x É Fig. 4. Man's trousers (baji) and a pair of ankle bands (daenim) held in the Horniman Museum. Fig. 5. Man's waistband (dae) and purse (jumeoni) held in the Horniman Museum. (Fig. 5). ¼ 164.4cm, 5.7cm j» 0.7~ 2cm e (Table 3). x ƒ. Ÿ. ¼ 15cm, 5.4cm, 13.5cm j» p. y ñ (Fig. 5(b)). 103
6 한국의류학회지 104 6) Vol. 36 No. 1, 2012 가 14cm 크기로 갓 안에 함께 끼워진 채로 오랫동안 보관되어 아래쪽 이마를 덮는 부위가 살짝 찌그러져 있 다(Fig. 8). 갓과 탕건의 세부 치수는 <Table 5>와 같다. 등배자와 등토시 등배자는 가느다란 등나무를 원형으로 돌려 캡 소 매가 달린 방령의 조끼와 유사한 형태로 제작되었다 (Fig. 6). 조형적으로 매우 아름답고 보존 상태도 우수 하다. 등배자는 총길이 46cm. 너비 41.5cm 크기이다 (Table 4). 소매를 형성하는 부위의 등나무 줄기가 앞뒤 로 서로 교차되면서 연결되어 있어서 앞길과 뒷길이 완전히 젖혀지지 않는 것이 특징적이다(Fig. 6(b)). 등토 시 1쌍이 등배자와 함께 보관되어 있었는데 오랜 기간 눌린 상태로 보관되어 펼친 형태를 확인할 수 없었다 (Fig. 6(c)). 등토시는 팔 부위의 지름이 9~10cm, 손목 부 위의 지름이 7cm 크기이다 관모 호니만 박물관에 소장된 남자의 관모로는 갓과 탕건 이 있다. 갓은 양태의 지름이 25cm, 대우의 아래쪽 지름 이 15cm, 대우의 높이가 11.5cm 크기의 흑립이다(Fig. 7). 대우의 하단 양쪽에 비쳐 보이는 흑색의 사직물로 끈 이 달려 있으며 모정에는 십자형의 정꽃 장식이 선명 히 보인다(Fig. 7(b)). 탕건은 아래쪽 지름이 18cm, 높이 Fig. 7. Top hat (gat) held in the Horniman Museum. 2. Fig. 8. Skullcap (tanggeon) held in the Horniman Museum. Fig. 6. Man's under-vest (deungbaeja) and wristlets (deungtosi) of wisteria held in the Horniman Museum. Photographed by the author (2009, March 17). Table 4. Measurements of a man's under-vest (deungbaeja) and wristlets (deungtosi) of wisteria held in the Horniman Museum. Item Under-vest (deungbaeja) Wristlets (deungtosi) Material Wisteria Wisteria Length 46 - Width Diameter 9-10 Inner diameter 7 Table 5. Measurements of a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon) held in the Horniman Museum Item Top hat (gat) Skullcap (tanggeon) Material Horsehair Horsehair Height Diameter Inner diameter 15 -
7 y w w IV. w x p y š, e, e,, œ. 1) š š û š w Ÿ š (Fig. 9). ¼ 39.4cm, y 73cm, t 53cm j» (Table 6). 0.2~0.5cm y p, û š ƒ 0.2~0.3cm y. w š j»ƒ p, 2» e 0.4~0.5cm, 4» e 0.2~0.3cm y. j w z Ýwš. ½ xk ½ ½ 4.2~5cm ½ ƒ p w. ½¼ 21.7cm, š 16cm, ½¼ 27.3cm. 1.6cm. š, š 5cm ¼ š ¼ ƒ 70cm, š ¼ ƒ 53.4cm. ú»ƒ ww Ê»., Á š ƒ. š ¼ w,, w ú w. ó g û š. ½ š ¼ w š û š w. 2) e e š. 3s ye x sww ¼ ƒ 118.2cm (Fig. 10). e 1s 69cm e s w. e s ƒ ƒ ƒ 0.5cm e 70cm. e x 10.5cm, ¼ 97cm ƒx xk e s w (Table 7). e s 0.2~0.3cm y. e ú w e p <Fig. 10(b)> Fig. 9. Woman's jacket (jeogori) held in the Horniman Museum. Fig. 10. Woman's skirt (chima) held in the Horniman Museum. Table 6. Measurements of woman's jacket (jeogori) held in the Horniman Museum Item Construction Material Sewn by Length of back bodice Width of back bodice Length of sleeve Width of sleeve Woman's jacket Lined Silk, cotton Hand, machine *
8 106 w wz 7PM/P 6~6.5cm 13 x s 1 y x. e s s w Ê š e 3cm ƒ x 2~2.5cm œ». 3) e e w ø s 6s ye x sww ¼ ƒ 112.5cm j» me x (Fig. 11). x k š r. e 0.3~0.4cm y. e e, z ƒƒ 6 x š x ñ 41cm p. e 1s 35.5cm e s w. e ƒ e s ƒ ƒƒ 0.5cm e 36.5cm. e x 10.5cm, ¼ 97cm ƒx xk (Table 7). e ñ e x w <Fig. 11(b)> ñ ƒ q REISS BROTHER MANCHESTER e ƒ x ñ. w Christopher Breward w REISS BROTHER l d, 1940 l œ š š w ( with author in 22 January 2009) l w w š w ü Fig. 11. Woman's petticoat (sokchima) held in the Horniman Museum. Photographed by the author (2009, March 17).. 4) Ÿ xk (Fig. 12). x sww ¼ ƒ 116cm e š e ¼ e e Table 7. Measurements of woman's skirt (chima), petticoat (sokchima), and under trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot) held in the Horniman Museum Item Construction Material Sewn by Whole length Skirt (chima) Petticoat (sokchima) Under trousers (sokbaji) Under trousers (soksokgot) Waist (W / L) Unlined Silk Hand / 97 Unlined Silk, cotton Hand / 97 Lined Cotton Machine / 89 Unlined Cotton Machine / 81 Waistband (W / L) 5 / / / 70 6 / / / / / 93 Width of skirt Number of pleats 69* *
9 y w w 107 w mw Ÿ ƒ 88cm. 2.»k Fig. 12. Woman's under trousers (sokbaji) held in the Horniman Museum. Photographed by the author (2009, March 17).. x 11cm, x 89cm j» p ppw (Table 7). q 6, q 7 x ww x. ƒ, q p 2, p 4 š, q p 3, p 4 x. 5) œ œ Ÿ y x sww ¼ ƒ 102.6cm j» (Fig. 13). x 11cm, x 81cm p (Table 7). q 6, q 8 ƒ ww x. q x p ƒ. p 2, p 4. q ƒƒ 4 x. œ w w r. x ñ ó t w š. s Ÿ s t m 1 1g ƒ. û y m ƒ elš yƒ ƒ j. m s k x Ÿ ƒ m x e (Fig. 14). Ÿ (Fig. 15). g ¾ ¼ 26cm. m e <Table 8>. V. y w ~40 û s y š Choi(2008) Lee(2009) Fig. 14. Wristlets (tosi) held in the Horniman Museum. Fig. 13. Woman's under trousers (soksokgot) held in the Horniman Museum. Photographed by the author (2009, March 17). Fig. 15. Socks (beoseon) held in the Horniman Museum. 107
10 108 w wz 7PM/P Table 8. Measurements of wristlets (tosi) and socks (beoseon) held in the Horniman Museum Item Construction Material Sewn by Length Width Wristlets (tosi) Lined Silk, cotton Hand 24 Wrist/Arm / / 15.5 Socks (beoseon) Lined, padded Cotton Machine 35 Bottom/Top 22.5 / 19 ü š e ( š ¼, ¼, ½, š ) w, ƒ 1930~40. š š ƒ š ¼, ¼, ½¼ ƒ ¼ x w w. 1930~40 š ¼ m 30~40cm ¼ 8~18cm, ½¼ 17~20cm sw y š ¼ 39.4cm, ¼ 17cm, ½¼ 21.7cm ¼ ƒ ¼ r. š y 73cm ú š e w e. jƒ s³ e f. û š š w Ÿ. e w. š ƒ w. û š š š, p. w û š w û š» š ƒ ü ƒ w. y w ü w, 1930~ 1940 s ƒeƒ š w. 2. œ w e y œ,, e ƒ sw.» œ š e ƒ sw p. y e 41cm p me x e 3 ú w t x r pgp xk (Fig. 16). ƒ Fig. 16. Layered hemline of woman's petticoat (sokchima) held in the Horniman Museum. Photographed by the author (2009, March 17). ƒ 4cm e š. Jeong(2000) w, 1920~1950 û y e œ e œ e š w. y e w» w œ š ú öx x e ƒ w»,» e xk w w. 3. x öx»x y j š ƒ š e w ƒ xk. w x <Table 9> 1930~40 w. e (The National Folk Museum of Korea. 2011b) š y w xk j e w ƒ. 1930~40 w w x 19» ~20» x xkƒ. d x w s p wš 108
11 런던 호니만 박물관 소장 한복 유물에 관한 연구 109 Table 9. Varied shapes of men s under-vest (deungbaeja) of wisteria in the 20th century Year 1890s-1900s Varied shapes of men s under-vest of wisteria Held in The Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in Cambridge Held in The National Folk Museum of Korea Photographed by the author (2009, September 10). From The National Folk Museum of Korea. (2011a) s-1940s Held in The Horniman Museum in London Held in The Museum of WonHeld in The National Folk Museum of Buddhism History Korea. From The Museum of Won-Buddhism From The National Folk Museum of Photographed by the author (2009, Korea. (2011b). History. (2011). March 17). archive.nfm.go.kr 1950s-1960s Held in The Museum of WonOjukheon & Gangneung Held in The Onyang Folk Museum Held in The Buddhism History Municipal Museum From The Museum of Won-Buddhism From The Onyang Folk Museum. Photographed by Park, H. J. (2007, History. (2011). (1995). p. 33. July 16). 다. 배자형 등배자는 바닥에 놓았을 때 입체감이 없이 평평하며 어깨에 끼워진 연결고리를 경첩으로 삼아 앞 길과 뒷길이 완전히 젖혀지는 것이 특징이다. 그러나 호니만 박물관 소장 등배자는 바닥에 놓았을 때 입체 감이 없이 평평하고 어깨에 끼워진 연결고리에 의해 앞길과 뒷길이 서로 연결되어 있긴 하지만 소매를 형 성하는 부위의 등나무 줄기가 앞뒤로 서로 교차되면서 얽혀 있어서 앞길과 뒷길이 젖혀지지 않는 형태이다. 원불교 역사 박물관에는 1950~60년대에 착용된 것 으로 알려진 또 다른 형태의 등배자가 소장되어 있는 데 이는 완전히 서양복 입체구성의 특징을 반영하여 소매를 없애고 진동을 곡선으로 파고 어깨를 곡면화시 킨 서양복 조끼 형태이다. 이와 유사한 조끼형 등배자 가 온양 민속 박물관과 오죽헌 강릉 시립 박물관에도 소장되어 있다. 근대 시기 조선의 배자가 점차 서양복 조끼로 바뀌어 가면서 등배자의 형태 변화에도 영향을 미쳤을 것으로 판단된다. 20세기 전반기에 등배자는 평면적 배자형에서 점차 입체적 조끼형으로 바뀌어 갔 는데 호니만 박물관에 소장된 소매 부착형 등배자는 이러한 변화의 과정을 보여주는 과도기형 등배자로서 보존 상태도 매우 우수하여 복식사적 가치가 높다고 할 수 있겠다. 109
12 110 w wz 7PM/P VI. y 20» w w ü y w y š x p š w.., y w 18. û t w w» 1, ö 1, š 1, 1, 1, x 1, 1, 1, m 1, 1, k t š 1, e 1, e 1, 1, œ 1 5»k m 1 1g ƒ. y w ƒ m 1948 C. de J. Luxmore w». m, k w ù 14 û w 1953 Bowra w». k» ƒ y e ù Bowra w» û. š ¼» w 1930~40 q., û x p.» s». ö š Ÿ ö ƒ 4cm ¼š p xk. û š s Ÿ ¼ 58.7cm j» š. y š s Ÿ s. x É, x ö Ÿ. e ƒ ö w xk. x k ö., x p. š û š w ¼ 39.4cm j» š. e š p. 70cm s w 3s e e x x. e w ø s 6s me x k k. œ Ÿ p ppw. m 1 Ÿ x e. Ÿ., y w. û š š w y û w ü w s w. y 1930~40 û s xk ƒ j. ƒ p ƒeƒ t e. y e œ š ú öx x e ƒ w»», e» xk š. y j e w ƒ x k, w x s x öx» ùkù xk y mw 20» xk y ww. References Choi, E. S. (2008). The appraisal of female jackets from the period of 1890s-1960s. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 58(5), Horniman Museum. (2011). History of the Museum. Horniman History. Retrieved October 6, 2011, from horniman.ac.uk Jeong, B. N. (2000). A study of folklore on the traditional wedding of the West Gyeong Nam District-Focused on 1920s -1950s-U The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 8(6), Kwon, H. J., & Hong, N. Y. (2008). A study on embroidery 110
13 y w w 111 design patterns of Hwal-ot at the National Palace Museum of Korea. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 32(8), Kwon, H. J., & Hong, N. Y. (2009). Study on Hwal-ot at the Field Museum of Chicago. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 59(6), Lee, H. J. (2009). A study on historical change in female jeogori in modern times. Unpublished master's thesis, Dankook University, Yongin. National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. (2006). Korean art collection in the Brooklyn Museum, New York, USA. Daejeon: Author. National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. (2007). Korean art collection in the Museum of East Asian art in Cologne, Germany. Daejeon: Author. National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. (2008). Korean art collection of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, U.S.A. Daejeon: Author. National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. (2010). Korean art collection of the Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum, Tokyo, Japan. Daejeon: Author. The Museum of Won-Buddhism History. (2011). Remains & e-book. The Museum of Won-Buddhism History. Retrieved October 6, 2011, from The National Folk Museum of Korea. (2011a). Data info. The National Folk Museum of Korea. Retrieved October 6, 2011, from The National Folk Museum of Korea. (2011b). Data search. The Center of Folklife Archives. Retrieved October 6, 2011, from The National Research Institute of Cultural Properties. (1999). Korean cultural properties of the Guimet National Museum of Asian art, France. Seoul: Author. The Onyang Folk Museum. (1995). Onyang Folk Museum shown through illustration and commentary. Asan: Author. Yun, E. J., & Lim, Y. J. (1998). A study of Korean costume in the collection of overseas museums. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 36, Yun, E. J., & Son, K. J. (1994). A survey of Korean costume cultural assets in overseas focusing on New York area museum. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 23,
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