Cities of a Lifetime Shortcut to Salvation 인도의으뜸성지, 바라나시 일명 빛의도시 라는의미의 카시 라고부르는인도북동부의고대도시바라나시. 성스러운강 갠지스를끼고있는바라나시는생명의기운이충만한곳이자힌두교와불교, 자이나교, 시크교의성지다. In the Indian city of Varanasi, also known as Kashi, the city of light, it is always about the celebration of life, even in the midst of death.
베나레스는역사보다, 전통보다, 심지어전설보다도오래된도시다. 그리고그모든것을전부합친것보다두배는더오래되어보인다. 미국소설가마크트웨인이인도북동부의도시바라나시를보고한말이다. 그로부터 100여년이지난지금개발이횡행하는와중에도바라나시는옛모습을그대로간직하고있다. 동이트자마자우리일행은배를타고갠지스강줄기를따라내려갔다. 인도전통의상인사리를온몸에휘감은아낙들이물속으로한걸음씩들어가동쪽을바라보며기도를올리고있었다. 몇몇남자들은좀더과감하게몇미터깊이헤엄쳐들어가기도의예를올렸다. 큰소리로우는갓난아기와아직잠이덜깬아이를품에안고잠깐이라도물에담가주려고애쓰는부모들도보였다. 아이들이살면서겪게될모든죄를강물이씻어준다고믿기때문이다. 죄를씻고양심을치유하는갠지스강은바라나시를얘기할때빼놓을수없는상징적인장소다. 바라나시는현존하는고대도시가운데가장오래된곳으로손꼽힌다. 인도의대표서사시 마하바라타 에서도바라나시를언급하고있다. 바라나시는바라나강과아시강의합류지점에위치하기때문에얻은이름인데, 현재두강은물줄기가말라거의사라진상태다. 또한편으로시바신이도시를직접만들었다는얘기가있을만큼힌두교에서가장중요한순례지로자리매김 했다. 영어권에서는마크트웨인이그랬듯 베나레스 라고부르지만현지인들은 빛의도시 라는의미를지닌 카시 라는이름을선호한다. 갠지스강주변에는강으로내려가는계단인 가트 가 100여개나있다. 우리는그중에서가장규모가크고활기넘치는케다르가트에서내렸다. 잠시후북적이는현지인들사이를비집고들어가앉아있자니, 10대소녀가커다란우산을펴고그날팔물건을진열하기시작했다. 계단맨위의작은 이른아침케다르가트의풍경. 갠지스강에띄울제물. 평생의죄를씻어준다는성스러운강에뛰어든남자. 마니카미카가트에서진행하는화장식에참여한현지인들 ( 위부터시계방향으로 ). (Clockwise from above) Morning activities at Kedar Ghat; an offering ready to be floated in the Ganges River; a man takes a plunge into the holy river, which is believed to cleanse all sins; men attend a cremation funeral at the Manikamika Ghat. 사당에모신신께바칠우유였다. 재빠른손놀림으로가뿐하게마사지를해준다는안마사들도손님맞이에한창이었다. 바라나시의일상브라만승려가다가오더니시주를하면 안녕을기원하는기도를해주겠다고제안했다. 내가웃으며거절하자, 그는 푼돈으로공덕을쌓을수있는절호의기회 라며흥정했다. 하지만나를오래붙들지는않았다. 그의축복을받기위해기꺼이돈을지불하려는사람들이줄지어기다리고있었기 Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together. That is how Mark Twain expressed his view of the city that in the midst of all progress and development still manages to look old and venerable. It is just after sunrise and I am on a boat, gently cruising down the Ganges River. Women, their colorful saris tightly wound around themselves, step into the water and offer their prayers, facing eastward. The men are more adventurous; a few even manage to swim a few feet into the river, as they mirror the actions and rituals of their wives and mothers. A few of them are holding wailing babies and sleepy children, trying to get them to take a quick dip into the water that, they are sure, will cleanse them of all sins for a lifetime to come. I may still be bleary-eyed but Varanasi, or more correctly, the stretch by the river, has been alive for a couple of hours already. For what is Varanasi, if not for the Ganges, the cleanser of all sins and the soother of all consciences? Varanasi is believed to be one of the world s oldest living cities, finding a mention in the country s much-loved epic, the Mahabharata. It derives its name from the confluence of the Varana and the Assi rivers (both have now almost disappeared). In fact, legend has it that it was created by the God Shiva himself, making it one of the most important pilgrimage sites for Hindus. Benares, as Twain referred to it, is the Anglicized name, 20
때문이다. 바라나시는장례의식을치르러오는곳이기도하다. 힌두교에서는이곳에서화장을하고재를갠지스강에뿌리면저승길이편안하다고믿기때문이다. 하지만의식이진행되는와중에도슬프거나엄숙한분위기는전혀없다. 화장을치르는가족들이나승려의태도는일상적인삶과전혀다르지않다. 죽음의의식이한창인와중에도그들은여느곳에서하듯이흥정하고, 돈을치르고, 음식을먹고, 잠을잔다. 우리는발길을옮겨강하류의툴시가트에있는 아카라 로갔다. 아카라는바라나시의또다른활력을경험할수있는현지식체육관이다. 아카라안으로들어서자젊은청년들이운동에여념이없었다. 아령, 방망이, 해머등다양한도구로훈련하는이들이있는가하면, 코치의지시에따라진흙탕에서레슬링을하는청년들도있었다. 코치는 60대후반의노인인데도젊은제자들보다탄탄한체구를자랑했다. 그들이운동하는모습을흥미롭게지켜보는구경꾼들도보였다. 하지만청년들은카메라셔터소리에전혀신경쓰지않고훈련에몰두했다. 한참후다시케다르가트에돌아오자, 카메라로무장한채호기심어린눈빛을반짝이는배낭여행자들이도착해있었다. 그들역시인도현지인들처럼열반과해탈의길을찾기위해이곳까지왔으리라. 글차루케시라마두라이사진마치에이다코비치 툴시가트의현지체육관, 아카라. 쿠슈티라는인도고유의씨름을훈련하는젊은이들. 갠지스강둑에앉아있는초로의수행자. 어두운저녁, 힌두교의아르티제사의식을치르는바라나시사람들 ( 위부터시계 while most Indians prefer to call it 방향으로 ). Kashi, the city of light. (Clockwise from I get off the boat at Kedar Ghat, above) Morning among the largest and most active of the almost 100 ghats (fleets exercises at the akhara, or wrestling ground, at Tulsi of steps leading to the river). As I Ghat; practicing kushti, an Indian sit, a teenage girl unfurls her large form of wrestling; an umbrella and sets up her wares elderly sadhu sits on for the day milk to be offered to the bank of the Ganges River; an the God inside the tiny temple at evening aarthi the top of the steps. The heavyweights offering quick and light ceremony, a Hindu ritual, in Varanasi. massages are also spreading their blankets on secluded areas by the steps and are ready for business. Earning Punya A Brahmin priest approaches me, suggesting that I offer him some money so he can pray for my wellbeing. As I smile and refuse, he appeals, You can earn a lot of punya (let s call them spiritual brownie points) for a little money. He does not spend much time on me since there are others willing and waiting for his blessings and those of his God. People come to Varanasi to perform the last rites of their loved ones, since Hindus believe being cremated here and having the ashes scattered in the Ganges ensures a peaceful journey into the afterlife. However, there is nothing sad or sacred about these rituals as both the family and the priests go about life even in the presence of death. They bargain, they buy, they eat and they sleep just as they would anywhere else. I then head downriver to Tulsi Ghat s akhara, the local gymnasium that is part of the throbbing canvas of Varanasi. The young men are hard at work by the time I walk in, some with their dumbbells, indigenous clubs and weights and balancing bars. Some of them are wrestling in the mud, guided by their teacher in his late 60s, who looks fitter than any of the youngsters. There are also a few interested onlookers; the young men carry on, paying scant attention to the clicking cameras. A few others taking a break between their workouts decide to pose, flexing their muscles and wiping the mud from their tired and sweaty faces. Back much later at Kedar Ghat, I find that by then, the backpacking tourists have arrived, armed with their cameras and curiosity. They are here, just like the locals, in their own personal search for nirvana. Charukesi Ramadurai Photographs by Maciej Dakowicz By 22
guidebook 바라나시의요가체험 Ashrams of Serenity (school) to learn yoga the right way. The Banaras Hindu University (BHU) has a yoga 바라나시의종교사원 City of Temples temple is the Gyanvapi (meaning the well of knowledge) Mosque, an important 바라나시에왔다면훌륭한강사의지도아래정통요가를익히거나, 수행자들이모여있는아슈람을찾아가대대로전해내려오는명상비법을배워보자. 다양한아유르베다치료도경험할수있다. Find a good teacher or join an ashram to learn the age-old secrets of yoga. In Varanasi, uniting the mind, body and soul is part of the way of life. department (Yoga Sadhana Kendra Center) and offers short- and long-term courses. If you do not have that kind of time, try the Sri Yoga Mandir at 바라나시는힌두교만의성도 ( 聖都 ) 가아니다. 도시를대표하는힌두교사원바로옆에는아름다운이슬람성원이서있다. 부처가깨달음을얻은뒤처음으로설법을펼친장소도가까이에있다. Varanasi is not only a holy city for Hindus. It has a beautiful mosque right next to its main temple, close to where Buddha preached his first sermon. site of worship for local Muslims. The mosque is an interesting blend of Hindu and Muslim architectural elements, given that its present site is Nagwa Ghat or the Om Shanti believed to have held the orig- 바라나시는수세기동안철학과영성, 프로그램을제공하고있다. 코스에 Varanasi has been known Yoga Niketan at Meer Ghat. 바라나시곳곳에는수백개의사원이 전해지는이야기에따르면과거에는 Varanasi has hundreds (some inal Vishwanath temple. The 요가의중심지로이름이높았다. 참여할시간을낼수없다면나그와 as a center for philosophy, Also at Meer Ghat is the Yoga 서있다. 혹자는무려수천개에 이이슬람성원의현재위치에 says thousands) of temples and walls of the temple are part of 요가는신체운동인 아사나 와 가트에있는 스리요가만디르 나 spiritualism and yoga for Training Center run by Sunil 이른다고도한다. 인도최고의중요 비슈와나스사원이있었다고하니, is home to one of the most the mosque structure. Early in 호흡법인 프라나야마 를접목한수련 메르가트에있는 옴샨티요가 many centuries. A combination Kumar, which comes highly 성지로손꼽히는카시비슈와나스 건축요소의혼재는이와연관이 important ones in India the the morning, it is often possible 행위인만큼몸과마음을다스리는 니케탄 을찾아가보자. 메르 of asana (physical exercise) recommended. To get a more 사원도이곳에있다. 비슈와나스는 있으리라추측해본다. 사원벽에서도 Kashi Vishwanath Temple, to hear the temple bells ringing 최고의건강법으로유명하다. 가트에는수닐쿠마르가운영하는 and pranayama (breathing insightful experience, try to 우주의신 이라는뜻으로시바신을 성원양식을일부관찰할수있다. 이른 dedicated to Shiva as out at the same time as the 요가라는용어자체는 결합 을 요가강습센터도있는데평이대단히 techniques) known combine your visit with the 의미한다. 바라나시중심부에위치한 아침이면성원의지도자가우렁차게 Vishwanath, the Lord of the azaan, the mosque s call to 의미하는단어 요그 또는 유지 에서 좋다. 매년 2, 3 월우타르프라데시 to be a great technique for annual Yoga Festival organized 이사원은 1780 년인도데칸반도 기도문을외우는소리와힌두교 Universe. This temple is at the prayer. Varanasi is also 파생된말이다. 즉요가는몸과마음, 주정부가주최하는요가축제기간에 physical and mental wellbeing, by the Government of Uttar 아일랴바이홀카르여왕의명령으로 사원의종소리가동시에울려 heart of Varanasi and its pres- significant for Buddhists due to 나아가영혼까지하나로결합하는 맞춰오면요가를더깊이성찰해 yoga stems from the root yog Pradesh in February and 현재의모습을갖췄다. 바나라스힌두 퍼지기도한다. 또한바라나시는 ent avatar was built by Deccan its proximity to Sarnath, the 상태를말하는것. 바라나시에는 보는기회를누릴수있다. 다양한 or yuj, which means a union. March. The city also offers 대학캠퍼스안에위치한두르가 불교도들에게도중요한의미를갖는 queen Ahilyabai Holkar in 1780. deer park where Buddha gave 요가학교나센터를선전하는간판과 아유르베다치료도경험할수있다. In this case, it is the union various ayurveda (literally 사원과비를라사원도중요한성지로 도시다. 부처가보드가야에서 Apart from this, there are temp- his first sermon after attaining 문구가도시전역에현란하게붙어 생의과학 이라는의미를지닌 between the mind and the meaning the science of life) 거론된다. 두르가사원은도시전체를 깨달음을얻은뒤처음으로설법을 les scattered around the city, of enlightenment at Bodh Gaya. 있다. 하지만요가를제대로배워 아유르베다를통해근육이완과독소 body, and perhaps the soul. treatments along with yoga. 보호해주는수호사원이며, 비를라 펼친사르나스 ( 녹야원 ) 에서멀지않기 which the Durga Temple The most significant structure 보고싶다면역시오랜경륜과권위를 배출을도와주는간단한전신 There are signboards and So whether you want a quick 사원은 신 ( 新 ) 비슈와나스사원 으로도 때문이다. 사르나스의가장중요한 (believed to protect the city) and within Sarnath is the Dhamekh 지닌전문가를찾아가거나평판좋은 마사지인아비안가를받을수도있고, painted advertisements all abhyanga (full body massage) 불린다. 카시비슈와나스사원바로 건축물은아쇼카황제가불교를 the Birla Temple (also known as Stupa constructed by Emperor 요가학교, 아슈람에가는것이좋다. 질병의증상에따라원하는치료법도 over Varanasi for yoga schools to relax and mildly detox or you 옆에는 지식의우물 이라는의미의 수용한후기원전 249 년에세운다메크 the New Vishwanath Temple) Ashoka in 249BC. Sarnath is 바나라스힌두대학 (BHU) 도요가학을 찾을수있다. 호텔이나 and centers. However, it is are seeking long-term 이슬람성원, 기안바피 가서있다. 사리탑이다. 사르나스는바라나시에서 inside the Banaras Hindu just over 12km away from 가르치는 요가사다나켄드라 게스트하우스의도움을받아평판 best to find an experienced treatment for a specific ailment, 기안바피에는힌두교와이슬람교의 12 킬로미터거리에있기때문에 University campus are consi- Varanasi, easily accessed by 센터 를설립해단기및장기 좋은치료사를찾아가면된다. guru or join a reputed ashram Varanasi has it. 건축요소가흥미롭게혼재돼있다. 인력거나택시를타면쉽게갈수있다. dered significant. Adjoining the rickshaw or taxi. 24 25
guidebook 바라나시의특산물 Weaver Country are respected artisans in the larger community and indeed, referred to as karigar, or 바라나시의길거리음식 Varanasi Delights Thandai is considered the drink of God Shiva himself and is consumed copiously during the 바라나시실크는품질이뛰어나인도전역에서인기높은특산물이다. 하지만공장에서대량생산되는저렴한제품이서서히시장을잠식해들어와지금은바라나시실크산업이존폐의위기에놓여있다. Varanasi silk is popular throughout the subcontinent for its fine quality, although nowadays weavers are facing the threat of machine-made products. craftsmen. Take a cyclerickshaw to the Madanpura area of Varanasi to watch the weavers in action. Varanasi silk saris are known not just for their 바라나시는절로입맛을다시는길거리음식의천국이다. 특히구장나무잎으로싸먹는일종의소화제인판, 걸쭉하고달콤한요구르트인라시, 우유음료인탄다이같은별미는꼭한번쯤맛봐야한다. The city is known for its lip-smacking street food as well as local delicacies like paan (a betel leaf digestive), lassi (thick, sweet yogurt) and thandai (a milk-based drink). Maha Shivratri festival. For great local snacks, head to Dina Chat Bhandar on Luxa Road where the food is as hygienic as it is tasty. Have the fine workmanship but also their tikki (patty made with potato 바라나시에서는베틀직조가신성한 카리가르, 즉장인으로인정받는다. In Varanasi, weaving is almost a elaborate silver and gold 바라나시에왔다면반드시판을 가자. 이곳은맛도좋고청결한데 If you have gone to Varanasi and spices) and the samosa 행위로인식되고있다. 신도직조를 인력거를타고바라나시의마단푸라 sacred activity: God is also a embroidery with floral motifs 씹어봐야이도시를제대로 감자와향신료로만든파이, 티키와 and not had the paan, then you (another potato-based snack). 한다. 모든인간의운명을독특한 지역으로가면베틀로천을짜는 weaver he weaves unique inspired from the Mughal era. 경험했다고말할수있다. 어느 역시감자소를넣은튀김만두인 have not truly visited the city. Wash it all down with a banana 무늬로직조한다. 바라나시가낳은 모습을구경할수있다. 바라나시 designs for everyone, says A heavy sari can take the 영화에서 굳게닫힌마음까지열어 사모사를추천한다. 입가심은 블루 Paan is available throughout lassi (yogurt) at the Blue Lassi 성자이자시인인카비르가한말이다. 실크로만든사리는섬세한장인 Kabir, a 15 th -century saint poet weaver anywhere from two to 주는음식 이라고묘사했을정도다. 라시숍 의바나나라시가제격이다. India, but as a popular film ditty Shop, described by many 바라나시는수세기동안실크직조 정신뿐만아니라무굴왕조의 from the city. Varanasi has been four weeks to complete, 입안에서부드럽게녹는판은라임, 바라나시를찾은많은관광객이 goes, the Benaresi paan is the visitors to Varanasi as the best 산업으로이름을떨쳤다. 격조가살아있는정교한금은박 known through the centuries for sometimes up to six months in 구장나무열매, 설탕에졸인과일등 최고의라시로손꼽는메뉴다. key to a locked mind. Soft and they have ever tasted. Served 바라나시제 ( 製 ) 사리가신부들의 꽃자수솜씨로도정평이나있다. its silk weaving industry, and case of a particularly intricate 다양한재료를구장나무잎으로싼 주둥이가넓은토기그릇에담아 melting in the mouth, this betel in wide clay pots, the lassi is 필수혼수품이던시절도있었다. 묵직한사리하나를완성하는데 there was a time when a work. Along the streets where 것인데, 소화를돕는동시에입안을 내오는데, 라시본연의맛을느낄수 leaf folded with various colorful available in a variety of flavors 하지만지난몇십년사이바라나시 2~4 주가소요되고, 특별히 Benaresi sari, as it is known, weavers live and spin, there are 상쾌하게해준다. 어디서건나름대로 있는플레인부터파인애플, 초콜릿 ingredients such as lime, betel from plain to pineapple and 곳곳에서울려퍼지던베틀소리가 정교하고복잡한작업인경우에는 was an essential part of any small shops selling silk 최고의맛을경험할수있을것이다. 맛까지선택의폭이넓다. 하지만 nut and candied fruit is typically chocolate. And it is not only 한결잠잠해졌다. 방직공장의저렴한 무려 6 개월까지걸리기도한다. bridal trousseau. In the last few products where some of them 모험심이있다면탄다이에도전해 바라나시에서오로지인도음식만 eaten after meals, as both a local Indian food in Varanasi; if 가격경쟁력을당해낼재간이없기 장인들이생활과일을병행하는 decades looms have fallen are not the real McCoy. If you go 보는것도좋다. 탄다이는우유에각종 먹어야하는건아니다. 수프나 digestive and a mouth- you crave comfort food in the 때문이다. 그래도도시의좁은 골목길에는실크제품을판매하는 silent due to stiff competition shopping in Varanasi, be sure 견과류와허브를으깨어넣은음료. 샌드위치처럼익숙한음식으로 freshener. Ask any local for the form of soup and sandwiches, 뒷골목에서는여전히비단짜는 작은가게도있다. 그중에는 from machine weaves, which to pick up a genuine hand- 인도사람들은탄다이를시바신이 마음을달래고싶다면 브라운 best paan; each will have his then the Brown Bread Bakery 손길이분주하다. 직조인들은 모조품도섞여있으니, 사리나숄 are cheaper. Yet, in the narrow crafted article of clothing (a sari 마시는음료라고생각하기때문에 브레드베이커리 를찾아가자. own favorite and each will be beckons. Boasting organic 삼삼오오소규모로모여끊임없이 같은의류를구입할때는꼼꼼히 bylanes of the city, the craft or shawl); there are certified 마하시브라트리축제기간에는엄청난 유기농제품과저녁마다열리는 just as good. If you are products and a music concert 베틀을돌린다. 그들의직조솜씨에 확인해야한다. 장인들의권익보호를 flourishes as weavers work on brands such as Varanasi 양을소비한다. 바라나시가자랑하는 음악공연이자랑거리. 낯선 adventurous, try the thandai, a every evening, this is a haven 대한명성은좁은골목에만머물지 위해만든공인브랜드 바라나시 looms inside their own homes Weavers that work for the 최고의간식을맛보고싶다면룩사 도시에서편안한식당을찾는 drink with milk and various for travelers in search of a 않는다. 실제로우수한직조인들은 위버스 의제품은믿고살만하다. and as small collectives. They benefit of the community. 거리에있는 디나차트반다르 로 여행자들에게는천국같은곳이다. crushed nuts and herbs. relaxed eatery in the city. 26 27
korean air navigation Varanasi India 대한항공은 2월까지바라나시로전세기를운항합니다. Korean Air will operate Incheon Varanasi chartered flights by February. 찾아가는길인도항공은 특별한경험을원한다면 나데사르 뭄바이에서바라나시의 팰리스 를선택해보자. 이호텔을 바바트푸르공항까지항공편을 운영하는타지그룹은흠잡을데 운항한다. 비행시간은두시간. 없이완벽한서비스로 150년넘게 공항은도시외곽으로 18킬로미터 왕족과유명인사들을영접해왔다. 지점에있는데, 공항에대기중인 아니면칸톤먼트지역에있는래디슨 선불택시를이용하면예약해 호텔도안락하다. 볼거리가집중된 놓은호텔이나게스트하우스까지 대표적인가트근처에머물고 갈수있다. 수도인뉴델리를 싶다면 간파티게스트하우스 를 출발해아침일찍바라나시에 추천한다. 객실예약이일찌감치 도착하는야간열차도있다. 끝나곤하니, 갠지스강이보이는 방을원한다면여행을떠나기전 현지교통편도심의도로는 미리예약해놓는것이좋다. 비좁고온종일정체가풀리지 않으므로걷는것이최선이다. 방문시기날씨가비교적선선한 도심의가트와카시비슈와나스 10월부터 3월사이에방문하는것이 사원에서멀리떨어진숙소에묵고 가장좋다. 가능하면대대적인 있다면툭툭이나인력거를타고 힌두교축제가열리는시기에맞춰 관광하기를권한다. 도심에서는 여행일정을짜는것이좋다. 주로 택시를타지않는게현명하다. 3월에열리는마하시브라트리축제나 갠지스강에서배를타려면아침 주로 10월에개최되는데파발리축제 일찍이나해질무렵이좋다. 배에 기간이면도시전체에활기가 오르기전뱃사공과배삯을정한다. 넘친다. 데파발리축제가끝나고 2주뒤에는빛의축제인 추천숙박지사원주변의 데브데파발리가열린다. 갠지스강에 구시가지에는배낭족을상대로하는 감사의마음을전하는축제로, 수천 작고저렴한게스트하우스밖에없다. 개의등불이강둑을장식하고물 좀더큰규모의호텔을원한다면 위를떠다니는풍경은정녕놓치기 아시가트근처로가는게좋다. 아까운장관이다. Getting there Air India flies direct to Varanasi s Babatpur Airport from Mumbai. The flight time is two hours. The airport is 18km outside the city and has prepaid taxis to take you to your accomodation. There are also convenient overnight trains from New Delhi that get you to Varanasi early in the morning. Getting around The lanes in the inner city are narrow and clogged at any time of day, so it is best to walk. If you are staying far away from the central ghats and the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, then hire a tuk-tuk or cycle rickshaw to take you to your destination. Taxis are best avoided inside the main city. Be sure to take a boat ride on the Ganges, either early in the morning or at sunset; negotiate a rate with the boatman before you board. Where to stay The old city around the temple has only small and cheap guesthouses that cater mainly to backpackers. The bigger hotels are located near Assi Ghat. For a unique experience, try the unique Nadesar Palace from the impeccable Taj 간파티게스트하우스 Ganpati Guesthouse Group (www.tajhotels.com) that has played host to royalty and celebrities for more than 150 years. Or book a room at the comfortable Radisson Hotel in the Cantonment area. To be close to the action at the main ghats, stay at the quirky Ganpati Guesthouse (www. ganpatiguesthouse.com); the rooms tend to get booked well in advance, so make sure to reserve a Ganges-view room well ahead of your travel. When to visit It is best to visit Varanasi in the cooler months, between October and March. If possible, try to plan your trip around a major Hindu festival like Maha Shivratri (usually in March) when the city, considered the abode of God Shiva, comes alive, or Deepavali, the festival of lights (usually in October). During the fortnight following Deepavali is Dev Deepavali, Varanasi s own tribute to the Ganges, when thousands of lamps are lit on the banks and floated on the holy river, a truly unmissable sight. 자세한문의는으로문의바랍니다. More travel information is available from www.kaltour.com 28