Fashion Design with Folds - Focusing on Women s Fashion after 2000 - Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Ewha Womans University Lecturer : Ji-Young Kim <Abstract> Creative application in elaborate techniques can not only make design constructs productive but also can widen designers figurative perspectives. There are many techniques applied in fashion design such as folds, patchworks, embroidery, dyeing, industrial treatment, etc. In particular, folds play a significant part in enlightening clothes uniqueness in contemporary fashion design. The primary purpose of this study was to make new suggestion for the production of high value-added fashion goods by reviewing and synthesizing fold expressions. Diverse fold designs were retrieved through a comprehensive literature review on topic-related books, fashion dictionaries, and fashion encyclopedias. Significant cases of fashion designs using folds were retrieved from fashion magazines uploaded from 2000. There are three types of folds applied in fashion design. (1) The folds by needlework like tucks, smocking, shirring, and trimming type folds(ruffle, frill, flounce, and ruche). (2) The folds by chemical or mechanical treatment like permanent pleats and crinkle. (3) The folds of formative dress like drape. From a comprehensive review of the folds design cases after 2000, the following characteristics of folds design were identified: (1) a highlighted role in the whole, (2) mixture and deformation of techniques and Corresponding Author: Ji-Young Kim, Laboratory of Fashion Information, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Ewha Womans University, 11-1 Daehyun-Dong Seodaemun-Gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: 82-2-3277-3078 E-mail: coco7@hanmail.net 249
2 materials, (3) 3-D surface effect, (4) creation of a unique figurative beauty, and (5) expression of diverse fashion image. (Key Words): (folds), (fashion design), (technique) 250
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5 pin tucks spaced tucks blind tucks cross tucks sunburst tucks shell tucks cross-stitched tucks cross-tacked tucks 253
6 honeycomb stitch feather stitch cable stitch wave & trellis stitch lattice pattern lozenge pattern flower pattern 254
7 (ruffle) (frill) (flounce) ruche 255
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10 Alberta Ferretti, Martin 00 S/S Prada, GFF, Sitbon, Moschino, Erreuno, Maurizio Koji Tatsuno, Ghost, Daryl K, Hussein Chalayan, John Galliano, Koji Christian Galante, Masakï Koji Tatsuno, Prada, Anna Molinari, Masakï Tatsuno Lacroix, Jean Giorgio Matsushïma DKNY John Bartlet, Junya Matsushïma Paul Gaultier Armani Watanabe Comme des Garçons, Balmain Martin Sitbon, Mrni, Keita Nina Ricci, Enrico Yoshiki Givenchy, Maruyama, Coveri, Anna Sui, Hishinuma, 00-01 Martin Sitbon, Chanel, Genny, Valentino Cristian Dior, Hussein Mariella A/W Chanel, Anna Givenchy, Valentino Chalayan, Junya Burani, Molinari Oscar Watanabe Comme des Sportmax de la Renta Garçons, Marc Jacobs Versus, Gianni 01 S/S Fendi Versace, Antonio Ungaro, Prada, Vivienne Berardi, Daryl Chiyuki Victor Alfaro, Westwood, K, Callaghan Ruffo Research Clements Ribeiro BCBG Alberta Maxazria, Lawrence Ferretti, Dona Genny, Giorgio Armani, Salvatore Nicole Farhi, 01-02 Pim:Liko, Steele, I.S. Karan, Antonio Berardi, Keiko Chiyuki, Ferragamo, Daryl K, A/W Tristan Sunao Alessandro Suzuki Anna Molinari, Issey Miyake Clements Alberta Ferretti Webber, Kuwahara Dellacqua, Miu Miu, D&G Ribeiro Krizia Top Genny Marni, Preen, Fendi, Alberta Alexander McQueen, Alexander Guy Laroche, Ferretti, Emporio Armani, 02 S/S McQueen, Paco Rabanne, Byblos, Junko Chloé, Valentino, Marc Tristan Alberta Ferretti Shimada, Jacobs, Moschino Webber, Guerriero, Cheap & Chic Alberta Ferretti Laura Biagiotti Guerriero, Mila Schön, Alexander McQueen, Alexander Moschino, Anna Sui, McQueen, Marc Jacobs, Alberta Yoshiki Ferretti Gaultier Hishinuma, Haider Betty Jackson Ackermann Alexander McQueen, 02-03 Haider A/W Issey Miyake, Ackermann Jean Paul GFF, Cividini, Martin Sitbon, Giorgio Alexander Krizia Top, Armani, Krizia McQueen, Christian Top, Gucci, Fendi, Daniel Lacroix, Vivienne Herman Philasophy Westwood di Alberta Gold Label Ferretti Trussardi, Junko Shimada, Clements Nicola del Ribeiro, John Verme Galliano, Lanvin 258
11 Kenzo, Ruffo Research, Junko Miguel Alexander Shimada, Zac Ann Antonia Dice Kayak, Adrover, Herchcovitch, Louis Posen, TSE, Demeuleme Marras, Martin Coccapani, 03 S/S Louis Vuitton, Vuitton, Maska, Pringle, Chloé, ester, Margiela, D&G, Hussein Moschino Blumarin, Emilio Pucci, Hussein Lagerfeld Maxmara, Chalayan Cheap & Chic John Galliano Chalayan, Issey Gallery, Cerruti Balmain Miyake by Naoki Takizawa Alexander Alexander Sportmax, Issey Miyake by Naoki Russell Sage, McQueen, Jil McQueen, Emanuel Takizawa, Balmain, Amaya Sander, Carolina 03-04 Ungaro, Balenciaga, Chloé, Arzuaga, Alberta Herrera, Pringle, A/W Antonio Versace, John Galliano, Hussein Ferretti, Lanvin, Anna Berardi, Jean Christian Dior, Ralph Chalayan, Rick Sophia Molinari, Guy Paul Gaultier Lauren Owens Kokosalaki Laroche Coccapani, Gucci, Gucci, 04 S/S Lagerfeld Cacharel, Gallery Hamish Morrow 04-05 A/W 05 S/S Hussein Chalayan, Rick Owens, AF Vandervorst, Marc Jacobs, Versace, Martin Sitbon, D&G, Byblos, Miu Miu, AF Yves Saint Grès by Koji Vandervorst, Alberta Lauren Rive Tatsuno, Prada, Ferretti, Coccapani, Gauche, Ines Louis Vuitton Jean Paul Gaultier Valentinitsch Alberta Ferretti, Alexander Maska, Martin Sitbon, D&G, McQueen, Alexandre Jil Sander, D&G, Bora Cucci Anna Molinari Herchcovitch, DKNY, Aksu, Dries Moschino, D&G, Marc Boudicca, Van Noten, Jacobs, Burberry Giles Rosier Hussein Prorsum Chalayan Jean Paul Jil Sander, D&G, Emma Gaultier, Fendi, Celine, Prada, Cook, Jil Sander, Oscar de la Alexander Maurizio Balenciaga, Yves Saint Lagerfeld Renta, Marni, Chloé, McQueen, Issey Pecoraro, Emma Cook, Lauren, Rive Gallery, Zac Posen, Marc Miyake by Naoki Undercover Trend les Gauche, Sophia Jacobs, Blugirl Takizawa, As Burberry Copains Bottega Veneta Kokosalaki Four, Lagerfeld Prosum Gallery, Lanvin ç 259
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17 Fashion Dictionary Andrew, Anne (1989). Smocking. London : Merehurst. Brockman, Helen L. (1965). The Theory of Fashion Design. John Wiley & Sons. Inc. Calasibetta, Charlotte Mankey (1998). Fairchild s Dictionary of Fashion-Second Edition. New York: Fairchild Books. Davis, Marian L. (1987). Visual Design in Dress. Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, Inc. Ireland, Patrick John (1987). Encyclopedia of Fashion Details. London: Prentice-Hall, Inc. Nunn, Joan (1984). Fashion in Costume 1200-1980. New York: Schocken Books. Pyman, Kit (1990). Every Kind of Smocking. Spain : Search Press Ltd. Singer, Margo & Spyrou, Mary (1989). Textile Arts- Multicultural Traditions. London: A&C Black. Tate, Sharon Lee (1984). Inside Fashion Design - Second Edition. New york: Harper & Row. Wolff, Colette (1996). The Art of Manipulating Fabric. Iowa, Wisconsin: Krause Publications Collections - Trends Visual Map. Tokyo: Gap Japan (2000 S/S 2005 S/S). Collections. Tokyo : Gap Japan (2000 S/S 2005 S/S). http://www.m-w.com 265