Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association J. Korean Home Econ. Assoc. Vol. 51 No. 2, 147-159, April 2013 http://dx.doi.org/10.6115/khea.2013.51.2.147 www.fer.or.kr eissn 2234-2818 pissn 1225-0937 Characteristics in the Lingerie Looks Designed by John Galliano Department of Fashion Design, Sunchon National University Abstract This study aims at developing and producing the creative design of a lingerie look after reviewing the aesthetic value about lingerie look featured in John Galliano s works. As for the research method, the selection process from the works was followed together with literature review for empirical analysis over lingerie looks, where 2,764 pieces in total were reviewed from Galliano s Pret-a-Porter collections covering from 2001S/S until 2010F/W and Christian Dior s Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter collections that he is in charge of as head designer and 291 pieces were finally singled out that show the lingerie look image well. Then, the formative expression was examined about those looks and the characteristics were induced from them. Formativeness expressed in Galliano s lingerie look, in term of lingerie style, was categorized as erotic, retro, and deconstructive. The glittering and smooth material like silk and satin, and the visible material like lace and chiffon were mainly used for material rather than foreign material. By doing so, the romantic and erotic image was highlighted. In the production method, it was grouped into transposition of wear, direct and indirect exposition, and deconstructive way. These aesthetic characteristics introduced by formative expression appeared in the form of eroticism, play, and deconstructiveness. (John Galliano), (lingerie look), (sensualism), (playfulness), (deconstruction) Corresponding Author : Sun Young Kim, Department of Fashion Design, Sunchon National University, 255 Jungangno, Sunchon, Chonnam, 540-742, Korea Tel: +82-61-750-3685, Fax: +82-61-750-3680, E-mail: ksy6341@sunchon.ac.kr Copyright 2013, The Korean Home Economics Association. All rights reserved. - 147 -

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Table 1. Style 1-1 John Galliano, 2009F/W 1-2 Christian Dior, 2009S/S 1-3 Christian Dior, 2009S/S 1-4 Christian Dior Haute Couture, 2004F/W 1-5 John Galliano, 2004S/S 1-6 Christian Dior, 2006S/S 1-7 Christian Dior Haute Couture, 2005F/W 1-8 Christian Dior Haute Couture, 2009F/W (All at www.style.com) - 151 -

Table 2. Transposition of wear 2-1 John Galliano, 2005S/S 2-2 Christian Dior, 2001F/W 2-3 Christian Dior, 2002S/S 2-4 John Galliano, 2003F/W 2-5 Christian Dior Haute Couture, 2009F/W 2-6 John Galliano, 2004S/S 2-7 Christian Dior, 2010S/S (All at www.style.com) - 152 -

Table 3. Exposition 3-1 Christian Dior Haute Couture, 2009F/W 3-2 Christian Dior, 2001S/S 3-3 Christian Dior, 2010S/S 3-4 Christian Dior Haute Couture, 2003F/W (All at www.style.com) - 153 -

Table 4. Deconstruction 4-1 Christian Dior Haute Couture, 2006S/S 4-2 Christian Dior, 2006S/S 4-3 Christian Dior Haute Couture, 2001S/S 4-4 Christian Dior, 2004S/S 4-5 John Galliano, 2010S/S 4-6 Christian Dior, 2001S/S (All at www.style.com) - 154 -

Table 5. Expression characteristics in the lingerie looks designed by John Galliano Formativeness - Sensual style highlighting the erotic feminine beauty by using various inner wear items and see-through materials - Retro style expressed with reinterpretation of old fashioned Style items such as the corset in previous costume history - Deconstructive style by transforming inner wear into outer wear or newly redesigning the inner wear form, line, and details as motive Characteristics Materials - Glittering and smooth materials like silk or satin and visible materials like lace or chiffon were mainly adopted instead of a foreign material to highlight the romantic and erotic image - Expression of the incomplete destructiveness and the playfulness with an inner wear functioned as outer wear and placed on the outer wear outside Sensualism Playfulness Deconstruction Representation techniques - Reminding of existence of the inner wear worn on top of outer wear by purposely exposing part of it directly - Application of indirect exposition with which the inner wear is seen by purposely putting on the outer wear in a visible cloth - Deconstructive expression used for decorative function of outer wear by utilizing the inner wear form, details, and cloth material - 155 -

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