한국의류산업학회지 pissn 1229-2060 제 20 권제 4 호, 2018 eissn 2287-5743 < 연구논문 > Fashion & Text. Res. J. Vol. 20, No. 4, pp.429-438(2018) https://doi.org/10.5805/sfti.2018.20.4.429 60 대여성체형별목부위피트존분석 박선희 홍경희 이예진 충남대학교의류학과 Analysis of Neck Fit-zone according to Body Type for Females in Their 60s Sunhee Park, Kyunghi Hong, and Yejin Lee Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chungnam National University; Daejeon, Korea Abstract: This study analyzed the fit-zone of the neck for females in their 60s. We considered the standard body types of females in their 60s and the four body types from the sixth Size Korea. The results of the study were as follows. We could not determine a pattern formula for the neck based on the changes in the body type of females in their 60s. However, the position of the lateral neck point generally showed a significant difference from that of females in their 20s. In the case of the shoulder angle, the point of the shoulder was angled slightly towards the back in all body types. It was also found that the curve of the neck circumference for both the collar and the bodice should have been smoother than what was shown on the 3D shape. The larger the height difference between the point of the back of the neck and the lateral neck point in the 3D shape, the smoother the design should be at the curve of the circumference at the front of the neck. A larger curvature in the front radius of the 3D shape increased the difference in the shape of the curve between the collar and the basic pattern of the bodice. Hence, a more careful design is required for these parts of the pattern. In addition, the more the front neck is bent, the smoother the circumference curve should be in the pattern design at the front of the neck and the collar. Key words: collar ( 칼라 ), 60s female (60 대여성 ), body type ( 체형 ), neck area ( 목부위 ), pattern ( 패턴 ) 1. 서론 현재한국은의료기술과과학기술의발달로인간의수명이길어지고, 저출산이증가되면서빠르게초고령화사회로진입하고있다. 통계청자료에따르면약 18년만에 65세이상의고령인구비율이 13.8% 에도달하는것은일본 24년, 스위스 52년, 미국 72년, 스웨덴 85년, 프랑스 115년과비교하여매우압도적이라고언급하고있다 (Statistics Korea, 2017). 일반적으로남 여모두연령이높아질수록근육량이감소되고, 비만율이높아져몸통의굴곡이완화되고배가나오는체형으로변화되기쉬운데특히여성은남성에비해기초대사량과에너지소모량이적어지방이더축적되며, 다양한체형의변화를겪게된 Corresponding author; Yejin Lee Tel. +82-42-821-6824, Fax. +82-42-821-8887 E-mail: yejin@cnu.ac.kr 2018 (by) the authors. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. 본논문은석사학위청구논문의일부임. 다고한다 (Korean Agency for Technology and Standards [KATS], 2013). 구체적으로 Nam and Choi(1999) 에따르면노인여성의가장큰신체적변화특징은가슴이처지고, 복부비만이생기며, 높이항목이감소되어상반신이숙인체형으로변하는것이라고하였다. Kim(2003) 도노년여성은인체의높이항목과상반신의너비, 두께, 둘레항목이줄어들고등길이는증가하여굽어지는형태가된다고언급하며이러한굴곡의변형은의복의패턴설계시중요한요인이되어디자인의미적인부분에도영향을준다고하였다. 그러나현재판매되고있는대부분의시니어세대기성복은체형변화가제대로반영되지않아구매자들에게심리적으로불만족을유발하고자신감을감소시키고있다고지적하였다. 또한 Kim and Choi(2000) 도체형변화가뚜렷하게나타나는노년여성의경우기존여성복의적합성에대한문제가제기되고있어체형을보완하는의복제시가필요하다고하였다. Kwen(2012) 역시 60세부터 79세여성을대상으로한연구에서나이가들면서변하는신체적단점을감출수있는젊어보이는의복에관심을가지기때문에우선적으로개선되어야할사항으로체형을커버할수있는디자인이나심미성이며, 그다음으로활동을편안하게할수있는기능성및치수의다양성이요구된다고하였다. 체형커버를원하는부위로는젊은세대와다르게복부와더불어목을 429
430 한국의류산업학회지제 20 권제 4 호, 2018 년 언급하였으며차이니즈 ( 스탠드 ) 칼라와같이목의주름을보완해주는형태를선호하고있는것을알수있었다 (Kim, 2011; Kim & Park, 2013). 그러나대부분의선행연구가선호도및구매행동조사 (Keum, 1999; Kwen, 2012; Oh, 2016), 디자인설계요소분석 (Kim, 2016; Kim, 2017; Lee et al., 2016), 체형분석 (Lee & Lee, 2008; Lee & Seo, 2009; Seong & Kim, 2015; Yeo, 2008) 에초점이맞추어져있었고, 이들을위한패턴개발연구는상대적으로적은편이었다. 패턴개발과관련된연구로는노년여성의하반신을중심으로인체측정데이터에기반하여비만체형의팬티원형개발및기능성팬티패턴개발 (Lee & Kim, 2007), 시니어여성체형에따른브래지어선호도를조사하여가슴둘레와컵사이즈를바탕으로체형별브래지어디자인설계 (Heo, 2017), 산업체에서사용되는바지패턴을수집하여노인여성을위한시각적으로날씬하게보이는바지의원형개발 (Jo, 2013) 등으로적은수이지만아이템은다양하게진행되었다. 다만체형특성에따라패턴을제시하기보다는평균 ( 표준 ) 체형만을대상으로주로연구가진행되어체형이다를때는어떻게패턴을개발해야하는지파악하기는어려운점이있었다. 한편칼라와관련된연구도살펴보면나폴레옹칼라 (Lee et al., 2015), 셔츠칼라 (Jang & Suh, 2010), 테일러드자켓칼라 (Lee, 2011) 를중심으로설계법에따른형태변화연구등이진행되었으나직접적으로노인여성의목부위를중심으로분석한심도있는연구는없는실정이었다. 이에본연구에서는 60대여성체형별목부위피트존을 3차원형상과 2차원패턴사이의관계를분석하여대표체형별로어떤차이점이있는지를관찰하고자하였다. 이는추후시니어세대가선호하는목을커버하는형태의디자인에대한길원형과칼라패턴설계시기초자료로활용하고자한다. 2. 연구방법 2.1. 60대체형별 3차원데이터선정 60대여성의목부위피트존을분석하기위해 Size Korea (2010) 6차한국인인체치수형상자료를활용하였다. 60대여성의체형은표준체형과 4개의체형군집으로분류되어있었고, 이를본연구에사용하였다. 즉, 표준체형과각대표체형 1개씩총 5개의체형이분석되었다. 표준체형모델은 60대전체사이즈를평균화 (n=67) 하여모델링한데이터였고, 체형군집은작은역삼각체형, 큰사각체형, 사각체형, 삼각체형으로구분되어있었다. 이데이터는체형별로평균에해당하는인체형상으로작은역삼각체형 (n=87), 큰사각체형 (n=108), 사각체형 (n=95), 삼각체형 (n=85) 의평균및표준편차에의한이상데이터의검출, 상호관계식에의한데이터검정, 상관 / 회귀분석에의한데이터검정의 3단계를거쳐제공되는자료로대표성이있었다. 표준체형과체형군집의상반신이미지와측정치수를 Table 1에나타내었다. 2.2. 60대체형별 3차원데이터분석을위한기준점과기준선설정체형별로목부위피트존형상을정밀하게분석하기위해목앞점, 목뒤점, 목옆점, 어깨점, 젖꼭지점의 5개기준점과 (Fig. 1(a)) 목밑둘레선, 스탠드칼라선, 가슴둘레선, 어깨선, 앞중심선, 뒤중심선의 6개의기준선 (Fig. 1(b)) 및전개시필요한선들을설정하였다. 목앞점, 목뒤점은곡률반경의변화를근거로등고선을생성시킨후정면, 후면, 측면에서각각바라보며생성하였고, 어깨점은선행연구 (Han, 2007) 의방법을따랐다. 젖꼭지점도곡률변화에근거하여측면과정면에서바라보며위치를정하였다. Fig. 2에목의기준점 ( 목앞점, 목뒤점 ) 을위한목주위등고선, 어깨점을위한참고문헌측정방법, 젖꼭지점을위한 Table 1. Body model in 60s used in this study and reference sizes from the 6 th Size Korea (Unit: cm) Standard body type Small inverted triangle type Large square type Square type Triangle type Image Measurement Stature 152.3±0.5 153.2±1.4 151.3±0.5 150.6±1.2 151.6±0.2 Neck base circumference 38.4±0.4 39.7±1.3 38.5±0.1 38.0±0.4 37.7±0.7 Chest circumference 92.0±1.9 89.0±1.1 92.2±2.1 88.9±1.3 88.5±1.6 Bust circumference 94.2±0.4 91.6±2.2 97.2±3.4 93.5±0.4 92.6±1.2 Underbust circumference 82.0±0.5 79.6±1.9 84.3±2.8 81.4±0.2 80.3±1.2 Waist circumference 84.8±0.4 82.5±2.7 90.0±4.8 84.6±0.6 84.1±1.1 Waist breadth circumference 88.5±2.5 88.3±2.7 95.6±4.6 90.7±0.1 89.1±0.5 Hip circumference 92.0±0.3 92.1±0.2 94.8±2.5 91.1±1.2 91.5±0.8
60 대여성체형별목부위피트존분석 431 Fig. 1. Reference point and line for measurement according to body type (Size Korea, 2010). Fig. 2. Method for selecting reference points (Size Korea, 2010). 가슴부위등고선을도시하였다. 한편목옆점은등고선의변화에근거하여목밑둘레선을먼저설정한후목밑둘레선상에서정면에서바라보았을때변곡이생기는지점에생성하였다. 가슴둘레선은젖꼭지점을지나면서바닥에수평이되도록하였으며, 스탠드칼라선은목밑둘레선과유사한곡선으로 3cm 위로올라가서생성하였다. 앞중심선과뒤중심선은정중면을지나는선을사용하였다. 그밖에 3차원형상을 2차원으로전개시필요한보조선을추가하였다. 2.3. 60대체형별 3차원데이터분석항목체형별로목부위피트존형상분석을위한항목은 Table 2 에나타내었다. 오른쪽어깨각도 (SH-A), 목뒤점에서수직선을생성하고등의가장돌출된점까지의두께 (BP-T), 목뒤점과목옆점의높이차이 (HD-BNLN), 앞목곡률반경 (RC-FN), 뒤목곡률반경 (RC-BN), 앞목깊이 (H-FN), 앞목너비 (W-FN), 뒤목높이 (H-BN), 뒤목너비 (W-BN), 뒤목의숙인각도 (FA-BN), 앞목의숙인각도 (FA- Table 2. Definition of measurement items on 3D body (Size Korea, 2010) Code Definition Measurement SH-A Angle from the horizontal line drawn at the lateral neck point to the right shoulder point BP-T Thickness between the vertical line at the back neck point and the maximum protruding point of the back area HD-BNLN Height difference between back neck point and lateral neck point RC-FN Radius of Curvature at the front neck base circumference
432 한국의류산업학회지제 20 권제 4 호, 2018 년 Table 2. Definition of measurement items on 3D body (Size Korea, 2010) (continued) RC-BN Radius of Curvature at the back neck base circumference H-FN Height of front neck W-FN Width of front neck H-BN Height of back neck W-BN Width of back neck FA-BN Forward angle at back neck point FA-FN Forward angle at front neck point C-FN Front neck base circumference C-BN Back neck base circumference FN), 앞목둘레 (C-FN), 뒤목둘레 (C-BN) 를측정하였다. 2.4. 60대체형별 3차원데이터의 2차원패턴전개 3차원데이터의 2차원으로의전개는 Geomagic Design X (3D Systems, Inc, Korea) 와 2C-AN Program(Jeong & Hong, 2006; Kim, 2006; Lee, 2017; Lee & Hong, 2005; Wu & Hong, 2012) 을활용하였다. 3차원데이터의형상은유 지하면서삼각메쉬의크기를단순화한후평면으로낙하시켜 2차원전개도를획득하는 2C-AN 방법은 Fig. 3에나타내었다. 2.5. 60대체형별 2차원패턴상의측정항목전개된 2차원패턴에서는다음 Fig. 4의항목을측정하였다. 칼라에서 1(HL-BN-C2D) 은뒤목수평길이, 2(HL-FN-C2D) 는앞목수평길이, 3(VL-BNP-C2D) 은목뒤점과스탠드칼라최하 Fig. 3. Method for obtaining 2D pattern of 3D shape.
60 대여성체형별목부위피트존분석 433 Fig. 4. Measurement items in 2D patterns. 단점과의수직길이, 4(VL-FNP-C2D) 는목앞점이올라간수직길이, 5(RC-BN-C2D) 는칼라뒤목둘레곡률반경, 6(RC-FN- C2D) 은칼라앞목둘레곡률반경수치였다. 길원형에서 7(H- BN-B2D) 은뒤목높이, 8(W-BN-B2D) 은뒤목너비, 9(H-FN- B2D) 는앞목깊이, 10(W-FN-B2D) 은앞목너비, 11(HD-BNLN- B2D) 은앞과뒤의목옆점높이차이, 12(C-BN-B2D) 는뒤목둘레, 13(C-FN-B2D) 은앞목둘레, 14(RC-BN-B2D) 는뒤목둘레곡률반경, 15(RC-FN-B2D) 는앞목둘레곡률반경, 16(SH-BA- B2D) 은뒤판에서목옆점과어깨끝점의연결선과목옆점에서수평길이사이의각도, 17(SH-FA-B2D) 은앞판에서목옆점과어깨끝점의연결선과목옆점에서수평길이사이의각도였다. 그리고추가적으로칼라와길원형을목뒤점과목앞점결합시생기는공간의면적 (18; BN-A-B2D, 19; FN-A-B2D) 을각각측 정하였다. 3. 결과및논의 3.1. 60대체형별 3차원측정데이터체형별로 3차원상에서측정된데이터는 Table 3에나타내었다. 어깨각도는삼각체형을제외하고비슷하게측정되었고, 등의돌출은삼각체형이가장심하며표준체형이가장덜함을알수있었다. 목앞점과목뒤점의높이차이또한삼각체형이가장컸다. 곡률반경은사각체형을제외하고모든체형에서뒤목둘레곡률반경이앞목둘레곡률반경보다작아곡선형상이더완만함을확인하였다. 일반적으로 20대바디 (dress form) 의목옆점설정시에는목앞점에서목뒤점까지의둘레길이의이 Table 3. Measurement data on 3D body model according to body type Standard type Small inverted triangle type Large square type Square type Triangle type SH-A 23.0 o 23.0 o 23.0 o 21.0 o 17.0 o BP-T 5.0cm 7.0cm 7.0cm 6.7cm 7.6cm HD-BNLN 1.4cm 1.7cm 1.6cm 1.4cm 2.5cm RC-FN 5.9cm 6.9cm 6.3cm 6.2cm 6.4cm RC-BN 6.5cm 8.6cm 6.4cm 5.4cm 6.7cm H-FN 7.1cm 7.2cm 7.2cm 7.5cm 7.9cm W-FN 5.8cm 6.8cm 6.0cm 6.2cm 5.0cm H-BN 1.4cm 1.7cm 2.1cm 3.3cm 1.4cm W-BN 6.5cm 7.1cm 6.3cm 6.3cm 5.5cm FA-BN 12.0 o 25.0 o 10.0 o 20.0 o 10.0 o FA-FN 20.0 o 12.0 o 26.0 o 11.0 o 38.0 o C-FN 7.4cm 9.0cm 7.5cm 6.8cm 7.6cm C-BN 11.1cm 11.7cm 11.0cm 11.1cm 11.3cm
434 한국의류산업학회지제 20 권제 4 호, 2018 년 Table 4. 2D development pattern according to body type Body type 2D pattern Standard type Small inverted triangle type Large square type Square type Triangle type 등분양에서뒤로 1.0~1.5cm시켜뒤목둘레가 2.0~2.5 cm 작게되도록하는데 (Do et al., 2012), 60대의경우체형에상관없이뒤목둘레가앞목둘레보다약 3.0cm 이상작게나타났다. 연구방법에서언급하였듯이본연구에서는목옆점의위치를곡률반경에의해설정하였는데, 60대체형은곡률이변화하는위치가뒤쪽으로치우쳐져있다는의미로해석할수있었다. 길원형패턴설계시목옆점의위치는중요한포인트로 60대의이러한특성이제대로반영되지않는다면길원형전체균형이잘못될가능성도있을것이다. 앞목깊이, 앞목너비, 뒤목높이, 뒤목너비는체형에따라다른양상을보였으며, 목뒤숙인각도는작은역삼각체형이가장컸다. 반면목앞숙인각도는삼각체형이가 장큰값을나타내었다. 결과적으로체형에따라목부위의형상이각기다른특징을가지고있어이것이 2차원패턴과는어떤관련성이있는지는뒤에서다시논하고자한다. 3.2. 60대체형별 3차원데이터의전개된 2차원패턴데이터체형별로 3차원에서 2차원으로전개후의이미지는 Table 4 에, 패턴에서측정된데이터결과는 Table 5에제시하였다. 먼저전개된칼라패턴을비교해보면앞목너비가뒤목너비보다모두크게나타났다. 목뒤점과목옆점높이차이는사각체형이가장컸는데, 3차원데이터상에서높이차이와일치하지는않았다. 이는등의굽은정도나목의각도에따라 3차원형상에서보이는것과전개되어나타나는평면과는차이가나는것으로사료된다. 그리고뒤곡률반경은매우큰값을나타내거의직선에가까움을알수있었다. 다음으로길원형패턴에서뒤목높이는사각체형을제외하고 20대길원형설계치수와비슷하였으나 (Lim, 2006) 뒤목너비는작은역삼각형을제외하고모두작은경향이었다. 앞목깊이역시 20대앞목깊이와비슷하거나약간큰정도였으나앞목너비는모두작은편이였다. Sizs Korea(2015) 7차데이터를살펴보면 20대의목밑둘레는 37.1±2.5cm, 60대목밑둘레는 38.9±2.3cm로 60대의수치가큼에도불구하고 2차원전개패턴상에서너비항목이작은것은목의형상때문으로판단된다. 기존연구에의하면 (Lee & Kim, 2011; Moon, 2010) 27개의길원형제도분석결과 19개의원형에서뒤목너비와앞목너비를 B/12로제시하고있었는데이방법에의해 60대여성체형별뒤목너비와앞목너비를계산하면표준체형과큰사각체형은 7.7cm, 작은역삼각체형과삼각체형은 7.4cm, 사각체형은 7.5cm이다. 이는 Table 5의전개패턴의결과와는차이가나며뒤목너비와앞목너비를같게쓰는제도방법이 60대에게는적합하지않음을확인할수있었다. 또한뒤목높이는 15개의원형에서뒤목너비 /3, 앞목깊이는 16개의원형에서뒤목너비 + 0.5~2cm의제도방법을사용하고있었는데이에따라서도 60대에게적합한치수를유추할수없음을알수있었다. 반면뒤어깨각도는큰사각체형이가장크고, 사각체형이가장작았으며앞어깨각도는사각체형이가장크고, 삼각체형이가장작게나타났다. 그리고칼라와길원형을목앞점, 목뒤점을기준으로붙여보았을때목둘레부위에벌어지는면적에서뒤는작은역삼각체형이, 앞은삼각체형이가장큼을알수있었다. 3.3. 60대체형별 3차원측정데이터와 2차원전개패턴과의관계 3차원측정데이터와 2차원전개패턴과의관계중어깨각도를 Fig. 5에나타내었다. 체형별 3차원상에서의어깨각도는모든체형에서전개된 2차원패턴상의어깨각도중앞어깨각도와유사한경향을보였다. 이는어깨끝점이약간뒤쪽으로설정되면서나타난현상으로판단된다. 따라서패턴설계시어깨각도설정은어깨끝점의위치를살펴보면서결정해야할것이다. 한편체형별 3차원에서의앞 뒤곡률반경과전개된 2차원패턴에서의앞 뒤곡률반경비교는 Fig. 6에서보는바와같이칼라의경우모든체형에서 3차원값보다 2차원값이큰것을알수있었다. 앞곡률반경은그차이가작았으나, 뒤곡률
60 대여성체형별목부위피트존분석 435 Table 5. Measurement data on 2D development patterns according to body type Standard type Small inverted triangle type Large square type Square type Triangle type 1. HL-BN-C2D 7.7cm 8.4cm 7.1cm 7.1cm 7.5cm 2. HL-FN-C2D 10.7cm 10.3cm 9.9cm 10.2cm 10.0cm 3. VL-BNP-C2D 0.4cm 2.1cm 0.4cm 2.6cm 0.9cm 4. VL-FNP-C2D 1.9cm 3.5cm 3.9cm 1.2cm 4.4cm 5. RC-BN-C2D 158.4cm 18.9cm 48.6cm 77.4cm 43.2cm 6. RC-FN-C2D 10.7cm 9.2cm 11.2cm 8.9cm 15.9cm 7. H-BN-B2D 2.2cm 2.5cm 2.2cm 3.1cm 1.8cm 8. W-BN-B2D 6.9cm 8.6cm 7.1cm 5.8cm 7.1cm 9. H-FN-B2D 7.6cm 7.3cm 7.4cm 8.1cm 7.7cm 10. W-FN-B2D 6.1cm 7.3cm 6.5cm 5.5cm 6.7cm 11. HD-BNLN-B2D 1.0cm 3.2cm 4.9cm 3.0cm 3.1cm 12. C-BN-B2D 7.4cm 9.0cm 7.5cm 6.8cm 7.6cm 13. C-FN-B2D 11.1cm 11.7cm 11.0cm 11.1cm 11.3cm 14. RC-BN-B2D 12.7cm 34.3cm 14.2cm 7.6cm 12.0cm 15. RC-FN-B2D 6.2cm 6.9cm 6.8cm 6.5cm 7.1cm 16. SH-BA-B2D 11.7 14.1 18.6 6.0 14.4 17. SH-FA-B2D 26.0 21.1 24.3 27.6 17.0 18. BN-A-B2D 2.7cm 2 4.3cm 2 3.3cm 2 3.5cm 2 3.4cm 2 19. FN-A-B2D 7.3cm 2 5.5cm 2 5.9cm 2 4.2cm 2 8.8cm 2 반경은차이가크게나타났다. 따라서앞목둘레곡선은 3차원형상을반영하면서보다완만하게제도하고, 뒤목둘레는거의직선에가까운형상이적합할것으로보인다. 그러나길원형의경우에는앞곡률반경의 3차원값보다 2차원값이큰것은같았으나뒤곡률반경은 3차원값과 2차원값이거의유사함을알수있었다. 다음으로 Fig. 7과 Fig. 8에는앞목너비, 앞목깊이, 뒤목너비, 뒤목높이의 3차원-2차원관계를도시하였다. 사각체형만을제외하고 3차원의값이 2차원보다작은것을알수있었다. 사각체형은다른체형에비해목을앞으로숙인각도 (FA-FN) 가가장작았는데 (11 o ), 이것이영향을준것으로판단된다. 또한목의너비와깊이및높이항목은목의숙인각도가중요변인인것을다음 Fig. 9를통해서도확인하였다. Fig. Fig. 6. Comparison of front and back radius of curvature in 3D and front and back radius of curvature in developed 2D pattern. Fig. 5. Comparison of shoulder angle in 3D and development 2D pattern. 9에서보듯이 3차원형상에서는목뒤점과목옆점의높이차가체형에따라크게다르지않았으나뒤목을숙인각도에따라칼라패턴에서의목뒤점과목옆점의높이차가같은양상으로변하였다. 즉, 뒤목이많이숙여질수록 2차원칼라패턴에목뒤점과목옆점의높이차이가커졌다. 그러나이것이길원형의높이차에는반영되지않는것을알수있었다. 반면앞목이숙여지는정도는칼라패턴에서의높이차와는반대의경향을보였고, 이또한길원형의높이차이와는관계가없었다. 전체적으로 3차원상에서의측정항목과 2차원패턴에서의측정항목사이의상관분석중유의차가있는것만 Table 6에나타내었다. 3차원형상에서목뒤점과목옆점의높이차이 (HD- BNLN) 는칼라패턴의곡률반경 (RC-FN-C2D) 과.899 * (p<.05)
436 한국의류산업학회지제 20 권제 4 호, 2018 년 Table 6. The correlation coefficient between the measurement items on the 3D and the 2D pattern 2D 3D BN-A-B2D RC-FN-C2D RC-FN-B2D HD-BNLN.178.899 *.025 RC-FN.960 ** -.072.835 RC-BN.654 -.054.964 ** FA-FN -.352.970 ** -.333 * p<.05, ** p<.01 Fig. 7. Comparison of front width and front height in 3D and developed 2D pattern. 계시더욱주의해야할것으로생각된다. 한편 3차원형상에서의뒤곡률반경 (RC-BN) 은길원형에서의앞곡률반경 (RC-FN- B2D) 과.964 ** (p<.01) 의양의상관이나타났는데이를통해패턴설계시고려해야하는점을설명하기는어려웠다. 마지막으로앞으로숙인목의각도 (FA-FN) 는칼라의앞곡률반경 (RC- FN-C2D) 과.970 ** (p<.01) 의양의상관을보여앞목을많이숙일수록패턴설계시칼라의앞목둘레는더욱완만하게해야하는것을알수있었다. 4. 결론 Fig. 8. Comparison of back width and back height in 3D and developed 2D pattern. Fig. 9. Height difference between back neck and side neck point angle in 3D and 2D developed pattern and forward angel at front and back. 의양의관계가있었다. 즉높이차이가클수록칼라의앞목둘레선을완만하게설계해야만할것이다. 그리고 3차원형상에서앞곡률반경 (RC-FN) 은칼라와길원형패턴을목둘레선을뒤목점을중심으로맞추었을때생기는면적 (BN-A-B2D) 과.960 ** (p<.01) 의양의상관이있으므로앞곡률반경이커지면칼라와길원형패턴상의곡선의형상이차이가더생기므로설 본연구에서는 60대여성의 5가지체형별로목부위피드존을분석하여다음과같은결론을도출하였다. 1. 일반적으로 20대바디 (dress form) 의목옆점설정시에는목앞점에서목뒤점까지의둘레길이의이등분양에서뒤로 1.0~1.5cm시켜목뒤둘레가 2.0~2.5cm 작게되도록하는데 60 대의경우체형에상관없이목뒤둘레가목앞둘레보다약 3.0cm 이상작게나타났다. 따라서 60대의길원형패턴설계시목옆점의위치설정이중요하며, 이것이제대로반영되지않는다면길원형전체균형에문제가발생할가능성도있을것이다. 2. 길원형에서뒤목높이는일반적인길원형설계치수와비슷하였으나, 뒤목너비는모두작은경향이었다. 앞목깊이역시기존의설계법으로예측하면비슷하거나약간큰정도였으나앞목너비는모두작은편이였다. 따라서기존의뒤목너비, 앞목너비설계방법으로는 60대에게적합한치수를유추할수없음을알수있었다. 3. 3차원상에서의어깨각도는모든체형에서전개된 2차원패턴상의어깨각도중앞어깨각도와유사한경향을보였다. 이는어깨끝점이약간뒤쪽으로설정되면서나타난현상으로판단된다. 따라서패턴설계시어깨각도설정은어깨끝점의위치를살펴보면서앞과뒤의균형을맞추는것이중요할것이다. 4. 3차원에서의앞 뒤곡률반경과전개된 2차원패턴에서의앞 뒤곡률반경에대한관계가칼라의경우모든체형에서 3 차원값보다 2차원값이큰것을알수있었다. 따라서앞목둘레곡선은 3차원형상을반영하면서보다완만하게제도하고, 뒤목둘레는거의직선에가까운형상이적합할것으로보인다. 그러나길원형의경우에는앞곡률반경의 3차원값보다 2차원
60 대여성체형별목부위피트존분석 437 값이큰것은같았으나뒤곡률반경은 3차원값과 2차원값이거의유사함을알수있었다. 즉앞목너비, 앞목깊이, 뒤목너비, 뒤목높이의 3차원-2차원관계는사각체형을제외하고 3차원의값이 2차원보다작은것을알수있었다. 종합적으로 60대여성의체형에따른목부위의설계공식 을각각도출할수는없었으나, 일반적으로목옆점위치가 20 대와는차이가컸으며앞목과뒤목너비항목은기존설계방식으로는유추가어려움을알수있었다. 또한어깨각도의경우모든체형에서어깨끝점이약간뒤쪽에있어앞어깨각도를패턴에반영하는것이설계시적합할것으로판단되었다. 그리고칼라와길원형의목둘레곡선은 3차원형상에서보여지는것보다는완만하게설계하는것이좋으며이는앞목너비, 앞목깊이, 뒤목너비, 뒤목높이가 2차원패턴설계시 3차원형상보다커져야하는것과일치되었다. 뿐만아니라 3차원형상에서목뒤점과목옆점의높이차이가클수록칼라의앞목둘레선을완만하게설계하고 3차원형상에서앞곡률반경이커지면칼라 와길원형패턴상의곡선의형상이차이가더생기므로설계시더욱주의해야할것으로생각된다. 마지막으로앞목을많이숙일수록패턴설계시칼라의앞목둘레는더욱완만하게해야하는것을알수있었다. 본연구는선행연구와는다르게다양한체형에따른 2차원패턴설계방법의차이점이나유의할점 을파악하려고시도했다는데의의가있다. 다만본연구는체형별 3차원형상과전개된 2차원관계만을기초적으로분석하였기에후속연구에는각체형별로주요변인에초점을맞추어설계공식을도출할수있도록진행하는것이필요할것이다. References Do, W. H., Son, Y. M., & Choi, J. H. (2012). Draping. Seoul: Soohaksa. Han, H. S. (2007). A study on automatic setting of 3-dimensional human body measurement point and dimensional measurement path for clothing manufacturing. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Seoul National University, Seoul. Heo, S. 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